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TT: getting the toner to stick

TT: getting the toner to stick

2004-03-07 by Phil

I've been playing around with different papers and was very surprised 
to find that regular old ink jet paper actually seemed to have
some potential but tended to pop up when I lifted the iron.  There 
was clearly some transfer going on so I modified my technique and 
after about 2 minutes a side, turned off the iron and left it sitting 
on the board/paper assembly.  once it was cool well below the toner 
fusing point, I soaked and rubbed.  To my delight, I got an excellent 
transfer.  There was almost none of the blotchiness that I had been 
getting earlier.  I attribute this to the paper being porous and 
soaking up any extra toner.  There was very good adhesion, even a 
good scrubbing with scotchbright didn't budge the resist.  I'm really 
glad because I was annoying my wife by cutting out magazine pages.

This was a double sided, 10 mil trace board. 3" x 2.5" so not super 
large.

also, I decided to print the legend (tplace layer for eagle users) 
and try to transfer that.  It worked pretty well, I just ironed it on 
and peeled it off hot.  It wasn't thick enough for a resist but 
legible.  I used a 220 wet-n-dry sandpaper on the board to roughen it 
up.

The paper is Office Depot Inkjet Paper. 24 lb, 92 brightness.  item 
#751381

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-08 by poitsplace

Of course, if you don't mind doing some extra work, you can actually 
turn NORMAL paper into really good toner transfer paper 
by...essentially...painting it with gravy

After it's dried and you iron it flat it goes thru a normal copier 
quite well...and as for easy release...

http://www.extremecooling.org/ec/images/pp/gravy/water5.jpg




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> I've been playing around with different papers and was very 
surprised 
> to find that regular old ink jet paper actually seemed to have
> some potential but tended to pop up when I lifted the iron.  There 
> was clearly some transfer going on so I modified my technique and 
> after about 2 minutes a side, turned off the iron and left it 
sitting 
> on the board/paper assembly.  once it was cool well below the toner 
> fusing point, I soaked and rubbed.  To my delight, I got an 
excellent 
> transfer.  There was almost none of the blotchiness that I had been 
> getting earlier.  I attribute this to the paper being porous and 
> soaking up any extra toner.  There was very good adhesion, even a 
> good scrubbing with scotchbright didn't budge the resist.  I'm 
really 
> glad because I was annoying my wife by cutting out magazine pages.
> 
> This was a double sided, 10 mil trace board. 3" x 2.5" so not super 
> large.
> 
> also, I decided to print the legend (tplace layer for eagle users) 
> and try to transfer that.  It worked pretty well, I just ironed it 
on 
> and peeled it off hot.  It wasn't thick enough for a resist but 
> legible.  I used a 220 wet-n-dry sandpaper on the board to roughen 
it 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> up.
> 
> The paper is Office Depot Inkjet Paper. 24 lb, 92 brightness.  item 
> #751381

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-08 by Alan King

poitsplace wrote:
> Of course, if you don't mind doing some extra work, you can actually 
> turn NORMAL paper into really good toner transfer paper 
> by...essentially...painting it with gravy
> 
> After it's dried and you iron it flat it goes thru a normal copier 
> quite well...and as for easy release...
> 
> http://www.extremecooling.org/ec/images/pp/gravy/water5.jpg
> 
> 

   That may not be a bad method at all, something that keeps the toner from 
sticking too well, yet doesn't make the paper surface hard and nonporous and 
smash the toner out in the ironing.  Can't tell well from the pics if all your 
holes were clear or cleared easily, but looks good.  I'll have to try it out 
tonight and make sure there's nothing undesirable vs what I'm doing now.  Free 
paper is highly desirable, even vs just the 50 cents paper I'm using :).  Was 
that turkey gravy or beef to have with your paper?

   And hopefully not leaving stinking gravy bits behind in the printer..

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-08 by poitsplace

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:

>    That may not be a bad method at all, something 
> that keeps the toner from sticking too well, yet 
> doesn't make the paper surface hard and nonporous 
> and smash the toner out in the ironing.  Can't 
> tell well from the pics if all your holes were 
> clear or cleared easily, but looks good.  I'll 
> have to try it out tonight and make sure there's 
> nothing undesirable vs what I'm doing now.  Free 
> paper is highly desirable, even vs just the 50 
> cents paper I'm using :).  Was that turkey gravy 
> or beef to have with your paper?
> 
>    And hopefully not leaving stinking gravy bits 
> behind in the printer..

It's not EXACTLY gravy.  You just mix up some water
and flour (or starch...don't need as much starch)
and stir it into boiling water.  I applied it with 
one of those foam paint brushes.  One nice thing 
is that unlike standard coated inkjet paper, it
doesn't leave behind any white crusty stuff.

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-08 by Phil

why not just use spray laundry starch? 

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
> 
> >    That may not be a bad method at all, something 
> > that keeps the toner from sticking too well, yet 
> > doesn't make the paper surface hard and nonporous 
> > and smash the toner out in the ironing.  Can't 
> > tell well from the pics if all your holes were 
> > clear or cleared easily, but looks good.  I'll 
> > have to try it out tonight and make sure there's 
> > nothing undesirable vs what I'm doing now.  Free 
> > paper is highly desirable, even vs just the 50 
> > cents paper I'm using :).  Was that turkey gravy 
> > or beef to have with your paper?
> > 
> >    And hopefully not leaving stinking gravy bits 
> > behind in the printer..
> 
> It's not EXACTLY gravy.  You just mix up some water
> and flour (or starch...don't need as much starch)
> and stir it into boiling water.  I applied it with 
> one of those foam paint brushes.  One nice thing 
> is that unlike standard coated inkjet paper, it
> doesn't leave behind any white crusty stuff.

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-09 by poitsplace

It has to be a relatively thick coating...not sure spray starch would 
do it (although I have considered it)

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> why not just use spray laundry starch? 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
> wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
> > 
> > >    That may not be a bad method at all, something 
> > > that keeps the toner from sticking too well, yet 
> > > doesn't make the paper surface hard and nonporous 
> > > and smash the toner out in the ironing.  Can't 
> > > tell well from the pics if all your holes were 
> > > clear or cleared easily, but looks good.  I'll 
> > > have to try it out tonight and make sure there's 
> > > nothing undesirable vs what I'm doing now.  Free 
> > > paper is highly desirable, even vs just the 50 
> > > cents paper I'm using :).  Was that turkey gravy 
> > > or beef to have with your paper?
> > > 
> > >    And hopefully not leaving stinking gravy bits 
> > > behind in the printer..
> > 
> > It's not EXACTLY gravy.  You just mix up some water
> > and flour (or starch...don't need as much starch)
> > and stir it into boiling water.  I applied it with 
> > one of those foam paint brushes.  One nice thing 
> > is that unlike standard coated inkjet paper, it
> > doesn't leave behind any white crusty stuff.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-09 by Anthony Toft

On Mon, 2004-03-08 at 23:13, poitsplace wrote:
> It has to be a relatively thick coating...not sure spray starch would 
> do it (although I have considered it)

Doesn't it come off in the printer when the paper has to make a turn?
I'd love to be able to make my own paper like this, but I'm a little
leery of it clogging the printer up.
 
-- 
Anthony Toft <toftat@...>

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-09 by poitsplace

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...> 
wrote:
> On Mon, 2004-03-08 at 23:13, poitsplace wrote:
> > It has to be a relatively thick coating...
> > not sure spray starch would do it (although 
> > I have considered it)
 
 
> Doesn't it come off in the printer when the 
> paper has to make a turn?  I'd love to be 
> able to make my own paper like this, but I'm 
> a little leery of it clogging the printer up.


Heh, I actually don't have a laser printer, I
used it in the kinkos copier.  However, the 
stuff really doesn't come off easily.  If you
are worried you can simply test it by bending
a sheet of test paper repeatedly.  I never had
any problems with mine.  The only time it seems
to come off easily is in the water (and then it
really just turns to goo)

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Phil

I hope this isn't a joke.  what kind of paper do you put it on?  I 
get very wrinkled paper that doesn't want to feed through the machine 
at all.  I even tried ironing it out but its still pretty bad.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...> 
> wrote:
> > On Mon, 2004-03-08 at 23:13, poitsplace wrote:
> > > It has to be a relatively thick coating...
> > > not sure spray starch would do it (although 
> > > I have considered it)
>  
>  
> > Doesn't it come off in the printer when the 
> > paper has to make a turn?  I'd love to be 
> > able to make my own paper like this, but I'm 
> > a little leery of it clogging the printer up.
> 
> 
> Heh, I actually don't have a laser printer, I
> used it in the kinkos copier.  However, the 
> stuff really doesn't come off easily.  If you
> are worried you can simply test it by bending
> a sheet of test paper repeatedly.  I never had
> any problems with mine.  The only time it seems
> to come off easily is in the water (and then it
> really just turns to goo)

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by poitsplace

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> I hope this isn't a joke.  what kind of paper do 
> you put it on?  I get very wrinkled paper that 
> doesn't want to feed through the machine at all. 
> I even tried ironing it out but its still pretty 
> bad.

Yeah, initially it looks like this
http://www.extremecooling.org/ec/images/pp/gravy/dry.jpg

After drying and ironing I think I left it under a heavy
book overnight.  I found some of that initial batch of
paper when cleaning a while back (after a couple months) 
and it was almost as flat as normal paper.  Of course,
one good thing about a large commercial copier (like 
those used at kinkos...and which I used with my test) 
is that the rollers are far larger and don't have as 
much trouble with minor imperfections in the paper.  I 
was going to continue to refine the process and make a 
guide (hence the pictures on the server) but my wife has 
been disabled and/or ill for quite some time now so I've 
been unable to pursue any of my hobbies :\
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
> wrote:
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft <toftat@c...> 
> > wrote:
> > > On Mon, 2004-03-08 at 23:13, poitsplace wrote:
> > > > It has to be a relatively thick coating...
> > > > not sure spray starch would do it (although 
> > > > I have considered it)
> >  
> >  
> > > Doesn't it come off in the printer when the 
> > > paper has to make a turn?  I'd love to be 
> > > able to make my own paper like this, but I'm 
> > > a little leery of it clogging the printer up.
> > 
> > 
> > Heh, I actually don't have a laser printer, I
> > used it in the kinkos copier.  However, the 
> > stuff really doesn't come off easily.  If you
> > are worried you can simply test it by bending
> > a sheet of test paper repeatedly.  I never had
> > any problems with mine.  The only time it seems
> > to come off easily is in the water (and then it
> > really just turns to goo)

Re: TT:Don't forget the gravy...UPDATE

2004-03-10 by poitsplace

OK, made a batch...what I seem to find is...

(1) thicker paper works better (not crazy 
    kinds of thick, just not the uber-cheap 
    paper
(2) half sheets are less likely to get as 
    wrinkled
(3) if you've got a steam iron, steam them 
    (starched side up) and they'll flatten 
    out almost perfectly.  If you iron them 
    starched side down the starch gets moist 
    and sticks to whatever you're using.  
    Since the surface of the iron is hotter 
    than the steam, the starch won't stick 
    (can't get moist)

Here's a couple pictures of half-sheets I 
tried.

Here's a half-sheet of that cheap crappy
paper.  I made sure to have a light shine
on from an angle so you could see both any
wrinkles better
http://www.poitsplace.com/images/thinpaper.jpg

And because I had it laying around, another
half-sheet...this time it's actually coated
inkjet paper
http://www.poitsplace.com/images/coatedpaper.jpg

stick it under the yellow pages over night and 
it'll probably get rid of any remaining wrinkles
or curling.  Hope this information helps






--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> 
wrote:
> > I hope this isn't a joke.  what kind of paper do 
> > you put it on?  I get very wrinkled paper that 
> > doesn't want to feed through the machine at all. 
> > I even tried ironing it out but its still pretty 
> > bad.
> 
> Yeah, initially it looks like this
> http://www.extremecooling.org/ec/images/pp/gravy/dry.jpg
> 
> After drying and ironing I think I left it under a heavy
> book overnight.  I found some of that initial batch of
> paper when cleaning a while back (after a couple months) 
> and it was almost as flat as normal paper.  Of course,
> one good thing about a large commercial copier (like 
> those used at kinkos...and which I used with my test) 
> is that the rollers are far larger and don't have as 
> much trouble with minor imperfections in the paper.  I 
> was going to continue to refine the process and make a 
> guide (hence the pictures on the server) but my wife has 
> been disabled and/or ill for quite some time now so I've 
> been unable to pursue any of my hobbies :\
> 
> 
>  
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
> > wrote:
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Anthony Toft 
<toftat@c...> 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> > > wrote:
> > > > On Mon, 2004-03-08 at 23:13, poitsplace wrote:
> > > > > It has to be a relatively thick coating...
> > > > > not sure spray starch would do it (although 
> > > > > I have considered it)
> > >  
> > >  
> > > > Doesn't it come off in the printer when the 
> > > > paper has to make a turn?  I'd love to be 
> > > > able to make my own paper like this, but I'm 
> > > > a little leery of it clogging the printer up.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Heh, I actually don't have a laser printer, I
> > > used it in the kinkos copier.  However, the 
> > > stuff really doesn't come off easily.  If you
> > > are worried you can simply test it by bending
> > > a sheet of test paper repeatedly.  I never had
> > > any problems with mine.  The only time it seems
> > > to come off easily is in the water (and then it
> > > really just turns to goo)

Re: TT:Don't forget the gravy...final update :(

2004-03-10 by poitsplace

Well...it still suffers the same problems as regular coated inkjet 
paper (can't do large areas as well as traces) so I guess it's a bust 
(although it does work well for silkscreening the odd label on a 
board since unlike standard coated inkjet paper...it doesn't leave 
the paper's coating stuck to the surface)

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "poitsplace" <lmburt@e...> 
wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> OK, made a batch...what I seem to find is...
> 
> (1) thicker paper works better (not crazy 
>     kinds of thick, just not the uber-cheap 
>     paper
> (2) half sheets are less likely to get as 
>     wrinkled
> (3) if you've got a steam iron, steam them 
>     (starched side up) and they'll flatten 
>     out almost perfectly.  If you iron them 
>     starched side down the starch gets moist 
>     and sticks to whatever you're using.  
>     Since the surface of the iron is hotter 
>     than the steam, the starch won't stick 
>     (can't get moist)
> 
> Here's a couple pictures of half-sheets I 
> tried.
> 
> Here's a half-sheet of that cheap crappy
> paper.  I made sure to have a light shine
> on from an angle so you could see both any
> wrinkles better
> http://www.poitsplace.com/images/thinpaper.jpg
> 
> And because I had it laying around, another
> half-sheet...this time it's actually coated
> inkjet paper
> http://www.poitsplace.com/images/coatedpaper.jpg
> 
> stick it under the yellow pages over night and 
> it'll probably get rid of any remaining wrinkles
> or curling.  Hope this information helps

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Stefan Trethan

On Wed, 10 Mar 2004 04:13:11 -0000, Phil <phil1960us@...> wrote:

> I hope this isn't a joke.  what kind of paper do you put it on?  I
> get very wrinkled paper that doesn't want to feed through the machine
> at all.  I even tried ironing it out but its still pretty bad.
>

I thought so too first ;-)
i thought gravy, with the fat/grease and all, that is never
going to work. (i didn't believe my dictionary)

but then, when it was said to use flour or starch i can well believe it.
i may actually try it some day too...

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Alan King

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> I thought so too first ;-)
> i thought gravy, with the fat/grease and all, that is never
> going to work. (i didn't believe my dictionary)
> 
> but then, when it was said to use flour or starch i can well believe it.
> i may actually try it some day too...
> 


   Yes, same here.  The idea is more understandable when you realize that this 
is more familiar to most as paper mache glue not really gravy.  Sticking to the 
page yet releasing easier than the paper makes much more sense then.  I'll be 
trying it out today.

   And he just mentioned that large areas don't work as well.  They work fine on 
the jetprint paper, but I suspect that may be as much his printer as the paper. 
  All lasers have some degree of less printing on large areas, part of how they 
work.  Then again the glue covered paper could be interfering and making it a 
bit worse.  Conductivity can interfere, so if my initial prints aren't perfect 
I'll bake a sheet or two so I know it's completely dry.

   Even with some extra prep work it's all very simple, as long as the rest 
works as well or better I'll switch.  No sense bothering to buy the other papers 
if this little bit of prep now and then makes something as good out of regular 
paper.  And I like the idea of being able to control your coating's consistency, 
that means things can be adjusted until the best point of toner adhesion and 
later release from the paper are found.  I'm following some PM glue 
instructions, but I'm going to try consderably less water than called for since 
PM is only trying to make a very sparse coating that just glues here and there. 
  Shouldn't need so much water even for a thin coating when actually trying to 
coat the page.

Alan

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Phil

It seems there are two bondings going on here:  toner to paper and 
toner to board.  The goal is to increase the ratio of bonding to the 
board vs bonding to the paper so the paper will release.  Of course 
there needs to be a minimum level of bonding to the board.  coated 
paper works because the toner only bonds to the board-side layer and 
soaking causes the layers to seperate.

The starch method of decreasing paper bonding is very promising but 
I've not been able to get smooth enough paper to feed cleanly.  My 
best effort got creases and spacial distortion of the transfer 
pattern.  I'm skeptical of this working well for 8 mil traces and 
tqfp packages.  I've got some 90 lb paper that might maintain its 
integrity during starch treatment and will give it a try.  There may 
be other products that don't wet the paper but decrease the paper-
toner bonding. a very thin coating of a light oil (wd40 springs to 
mind) might do it.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
> Stefan Trethan wrote:
> 
> > I thought so too first ;-)
> > i thought gravy, with the fat/grease and all, that is never
> > going to work. (i didn't believe my dictionary)
> > 
> > but then, when it was said to use flour or starch i can well 
believe it.
> > i may actually try it some day too...
> > 
> 
> 
>    Yes, same here.  The idea is more understandable when you 
realize that this 
> is more familiar to most as paper mache glue not really gravy.  
Sticking to the 
> page yet releasing easier than the paper makes much more sense 
then.  I'll be 
> trying it out today.
> 
>    And he just mentioned that large areas don't work as well.  They 
work fine on 
> the jetprint paper, but I suspect that may be as much his printer 
as the paper. 
>   All lasers have some degree of less printing on large areas, part 
of how they 
> work.  Then again the glue covered paper could be interfering and 
making it a 
> bit worse.  Conductivity can interfere, so if my initial prints 
aren't perfect 
> I'll bake a sheet or two so I know it's completely dry.
> 
>    Even with some extra prep work it's all very simple, as long as 
the rest 
> works as well or better I'll switch.  No sense bothering to buy the 
other papers 
> if this little bit of prep now and then makes something as good out 
of regular 
> paper.  And I like the idea of being able to control your coating's 
consistency, 
> that means things can be adjusted until the best point of toner 
adhesion and 
> later release from the paper are found.  I'm following some PM glue 
> instructions, but I'm going to try consderably less water than 
called for since 
> PM is only trying to make a very sparse coating that just glues 
here and there. 
>   Shouldn't need so much water even for a thin coating when 
actually trying to 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> coat the page.
> 
> Alan

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> It seems there are two bondings going on here:  toner to paper and 
> toner to board.  The goal is to increase the ratio of bonding to the 
> board vs bonding to the paper so the paper will release.  Of course 
> there needs to be a minimum level of bonding to the board.  coated 
> paper works because the toner only bonds to the board-side layer and 
> soaking causes the layers to seperate.
> 
> The starch method of decreasing paper bonding is very promising but 
> I've not been able to get smooth enough paper to feed cleanly.  My 
> best effort got creases and spacial distortion of the transfer 
> pattern.  I'm skeptical of this working well for 8 mil traces and 
> tqfp packages.  I've got some 90 lb paper that might maintain its 
> integrity during starch treatment and will give it a try.  There may 
> be other products that don't wet the paper but decrease the paper-
> toner bonding. a very thin coating of a light oil (wd40 springs to 
> mind) might do it.

Yes, as has been covered here in depth, paper contraction due to the
heat of a laser printer/copier causes problems. I'd imagine a sheet of
paper wetted and not sufficiently dried is going to be worse.

I think your analysis of bonding is correct.

As for WD-40, speaking as an electronics tech: Don't do it! WD-40 and
electronics do -not- mix. WD-40 is -not- an oil. It's volatile, which
means heat is going to cause it to evaporate anyway. It's main use is
as a water displacer. My father destroyed the hinges on a truck of
mine, because unknown to me he was spraying all the hinges on my truck
with WD-40 every time I visited. I couldn't figure out why my doors
kept squeeking and sticking, I'd grease them, and in a short time
they'd stick again. He'd hosed out all the grease with WD-40 and
within a short time all the WD-40 had evaporated, leaving nothing but
metal to metal contact with some dust thrown in.

I suspect coatings are the answer. I tried inkjet transparencies, on
the theory that the coating on the plastic is water soluble and so
would easily let go of the toner when soaked. I was right, the
transparency got slimy when wet and let go easily. The problem was I
could not get water all the way under the plastic and the toner stuck
better to dry inkjet transparency than it did to copper.

And as has been pointed out here, the plastic caused the traces to all
mash out.

Steve

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Phil

maybe mineral oil.  thats not so volatile.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...> 
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> 
wrote:
> > It seems there are two bondings going on here:  toner to paper 
and 
> > toner to board.  The goal is to increase the ratio of bonding to 
the 
> > board vs bonding to the paper so the paper will release.  Of 
course 
> > there needs to be a minimum level of bonding to the board.  
coated 
> > paper works because the toner only bonds to the board-side layer 
and 
> > soaking causes the layers to seperate.
> > 
> > The starch method of decreasing paper bonding is very promising 
but 
> > I've not been able to get smooth enough paper to feed cleanly.  
My 
> > best effort got creases and spacial distortion of the transfer 
> > pattern.  I'm skeptical of this working well for 8 mil traces and 
> > tqfp packages.  I've got some 90 lb paper that might maintain its 
> > integrity during starch treatment and will give it a try.  There 
may 
> > be other products that don't wet the paper but decrease the paper-
> > toner bonding. a very thin coating of a light oil (wd40 springs 
to 
> > mind) might do it.
> 
> Yes, as has been covered here in depth, paper contraction due to the
> heat of a laser printer/copier causes problems. I'd imagine a sheet 
of
> paper wetted and not sufficiently dried is going to be worse.
> 
> I think your analysis of bonding is correct.
> 
> As for WD-40, speaking as an electronics tech: Don't do it! WD-40 
and
> electronics do -not- mix. WD-40 is -not- an oil. It's volatile, 
which
> means heat is going to cause it to evaporate anyway. It's main use 
is
> as a water displacer. My father destroyed the hinges on a truck of
> mine, because unknown to me he was spraying all the hinges on my 
truck
> with WD-40 every time I visited. I couldn't figure out why my doors
> kept squeeking and sticking, I'd grease them, and in a short time
> they'd stick again. He'd hosed out all the grease with WD-40 and
> within a short time all the WD-40 had evaporated, leaving nothing 
but
> metal to metal contact with some dust thrown in.
> 
> I suspect coatings are the answer. I tried inkjet transparencies, on
> the theory that the coating on the plastic is water soluble and so
> would easily let go of the toner when soaked. I was right, the
> transparency got slimy when wet and let go easily. The problem was I
> could not get water all the way under the plastic and the toner 
stuck
> better to dry inkjet transparency than it did to copper.
> 
> And as has been pointed out here, the plastic caused the traces to 
all
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> mash out.
> 
> Steve

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Stefan Trethan

> As for WD-40, speaking as an electronics tech: Don't do it! WD-40 and
> electronics do -not- mix. WD-40 is -not- an oil. It's volatile, which
> means heat is going to cause it to evaporate anyway. It's main use is
> as a water displacer. My father destroyed the hinges on a truck of
> mine, because unknown to me he was spraying all the hinges on my truck
> with WD-40 every time I visited. I couldn't figure out why my doors
> kept squeeking and sticking, I'd grease them, and in a short time
> they'd stick again. He'd hosed out all the grease with WD-40 and
> within a short time all the WD-40 had evaporated, leaving nothing but
> metal to metal contact with some dust thrown in.
>


we all have read it, and experienced it a hundred times now (ok, almost 
all).
WD40 is only good to lubruicate the dust bin!

throw it away and get somthing useable.
there are mighty good lubricants (also in spray cans) out there, more
expensive of course. for most applications a simple thin oil or grease is 
worlds better
than a liter of WD40.

what is it good for as a water displacer? it vanishes after some time and 
the
water comes back... for loosening rusty screws there are also better 
quality sprays.

There should be a law for a warning label on WD40...

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Alan King

Phil wrote:
>  My 
> best effort got creases and spacial distortion of the transfer 
> pattern.


   The only thing such statements are a true indicator of is that not much 
effort has yet gone into trying many variations on the technique.  It's never an 
indicator of the usefullness of anything until the technique is known and correct.


   I'm skeptical of this working well for 8 mil traces and
> tqfp packages.  I've got some 90 lb paper that might maintain its 
> integrity during starch treatment and will give it a try.  There may 
> be other products that don't wet the paper but decrease the paper-
> toner bonding. a very thin coating of a light oil (wd40 springs to 
> mind) might do it.
> 

   All you're likely to get is a splotchy mess.  Yes you want to increase the 
ratio of one to the other, but they still have to be relatively close for the 
bonding to do well through both steps.  You're not expecting melted plastic to 
stick to oil?  And unlikely you'd ever be able to put on so sparse an oil layer 
evenly enough to modify the paper's adhesion without having a very inconsistent 
process.




   Just got finished trying a board myself.  Didn't even worry about wrinkling, 
that is an issue to be controlled after a correct process is known.  Still, got 
poor toner adhesion to the board, although I didn't do the normal acetone rub so 
that may have been some of it.  Even without acetone though my other paper will 
still tack the toner down easily enough, but it has a more solid surface than 
this will make so the toner is in better contact.

   What is promising is that the pattern did stick fine to the paper, but under 
water didn't take that much rubbing effort with my finger to rub most of it off 
the paper.  So it is allowing the toner to stick fine for the print, but 
allowing it to release fairly easily from the page with water.  It has very good 
initial characteristics, so likely just needs process tuning.  It may actually 
work better with a bit coarser toner, the fine toner I have may need the more 
heavily coated pages to make it stay against the board.  But I may also just 
need to do a few coats etc, so several things to try.

   And paper only wrinkles because it's allowed to expand unevenly.  Put the 
paper on a sheet of glass, coat another sheet of glass with glue and then lay it 
on top.  It'd take forever to dry but it won't wrinkle.  We'll need to find 
something stiff enough to hold the paper flat, porous enough to let it dry in a 
reasonable time while holding it flat, and that the glue won't stick to.  May 
take some looking around but no doubt there's something common and reasonably 
cheap to develop a paper making system.

   Also there are premade products to look at.  There are ready made paper mache 
strips, don't know about the widths though.  And there is preglued wallpaper and 
border paper, which are already dried and flat and may be quite reasonable for 
this use and have a very similar glue.

   There's a heck of a lot of stuff to try before making any major 
pronouncements about the process.  And even though I got poor results on an 
initial swipe at it, several observations lead me to believe it could end up 
being superior to what I'm doing with the photo paper, which is already 
excellent.  So well worth persuing a bit further.

   LOL heck it wouldn't really surprise me to find out that some of the 
commercial stuff is just water soluable dried glue on film with some blue food 
coloring added in to throw people off the trail.  For $4 a sheet even..  :)

Alan

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
> Phil wrote:
> >  My 
> > best effort got creases and spacial distortion of the transfer 
> > pattern.
> 
> 
>    The only thing such statements are a true indicator of is that 
not much 
> effort has yet gone into trying many variations on the technique.  
It's never an 
> indicator of the usefullness of anything until the technique is 
known and correct.

wow, that's kind of rude and very irritating...  I spent half a day 
fussing with this stuff with like 10 different trials and 4 different 
kinds of paper. Others indicated similar problems.  and by the way, i 
did not say this technique had no merit.  Guess I just don't measure 
up to your godliness.  I hope you can figure this out for us mere 
mortals to slavishly follow you.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-10 by Alan King

Phil wrote:
> 
> wow, that's kind of rude and very irritating...  I spent half a day 
> fussing with this stuff with like 10 different trials and 4 different 
> kinds of paper. Others indicated similar problems.

   Sorry if you read it that way.  But that is a terribly low amount of time and 
attempts at a new process, and you made little if any mention of the good points 
that it has, even though they are much more important than problems in initial 
passes when you're unfamiliar with what you're doing.  Problems as mentioned are 
usually clear and easy to eliminate later, good points are what's important and 
often hard to come by.  And regardless that others also haven't worked with it 
much yet to get it right, the original posted pics already left little doubt 
that it can work quite well, which means it is more a failing in both of our 
materials or processes to date than the idea.

   Although I will admit that I don't tend to worry nearly so much about being 
politically correct as most people you may be used to.  I type fast and simply 
say what I'm thinking, so it may not always sound exactly right or be sugar 
coated like most people do.  Don't like it, feel free to fight back with your 
own good ideas.  Competing ideas make for far more rapid analysis and 
development than worrying about 100% political correctness anyway.  Plus with 
probably 25 or 30 lists coming in, I am flying through when I am replying to 
messages so I rarely edit and some things may definitely not be phrased the 
right way for intended meanings to start with..



   and by the way, i
> did not say this technique had no merit.

   I wasn't saying you did.  I only said that even with my own poor results 
initial pass I already do see high merit from other observations.  And you must 
be reading most of that message as directed at you or something.  Past the break 
was already largely typed up before your message even hit the list and cut and 
pasted in since they were both on the same subject.  I often do this so there 
aren't lots of excess seperate messages from me all on the same subject.  If 
they're related they go together anyway, but it wasn't all about you.

   But on the other hand you did say this  "  I'm skeptical of this working well 
for 8 mil traces and
tqfp packages."  Why would you be skeptical already?  You've only played with 
the method one morning for a very small number of attempts.  That is not to 
belittle your work, but even 10 or 20 so far is a very small amount for process 
development, especially when considering the materials are basically free. 
Developing stuff like this often takes years in production, so often weeks or 
months at home.  Hundreds of attempts would start being a more reasonable number 
to draw conclusions from, it may take 10 or 20 times this initial stab to start 
getting things under control.




>  Guess I just don't measure 
> up to your godliness.  I hope you can figure this out for us mere 
> mortals to slavishly follow you.
> 


   A large amount of patience and a good long term view of development hardly 
qualifies as godliness.  But with familiarity that my current process evolved 
over 6 months or more before it truly became excellent does make me a little bit 
skeptical that you've tried much in only one morning.  I tried many variations 
at once too, but it'll be weeks of other ideas popping into mind to start 
thinking it isn't likely to provide good results.  And overall development time 
doesn't affect the validity or ease of a process, I can still show or explain 
how to do what I'm now doing in a short time so it doesn't take others 6 months 
to get the same results.  The only difference is long term viewpoint, I likely 
got far worse results than you had, yet see it as a far more positive thing 
because the few things that did go right are the ones that are usually hardest 
to make work.  Wrinkling etc should be dealable later in one manner or another.

Alan

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-11 by Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> maybe mineral oil.  thats not so volatile.

A drum coated in oil of any kind isn't going to work correctly. And
it's going to be impossible to prevent at least some of the oil from
transfering to the drum.

At that point, water won't remove the paper any more.

What is needed is a water based coating that can be dried completely
before printing, but dissolves quickly and easily in water.

Inkjet coatings are one. Starch seems to be another with some merit.

What about a heated vacuum table to hold the paper flat and dry it at
the same time? Lay it down and spray or brush coat it, then turn on
the heat.

Steve

Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-11 by Ben H. Lanmon

And here I thought TT was to be the quick and easy method, after 
reading all these post on TT and Gravy I am not too sure about 
that.  Think I will stay with my Positve Photo method myself for 
now. Now the InkJet direct to a PCB sounds interesting.  I think my 
ink jet can do straight thru feed from the rear but I am not really 
willing to try it out on a $500.00 printer, without knowing more 
about it.  Are HP print heads compatible for this?  Guess I am 
getting the two threads crossed up here.  Sure would not be critial 
of someone that has the time and wants to experiment with different 
methods as experimenting that is how new things and processes are 
found.

Ben

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: TT: getting the toner to stick (Don't forget the gravy)

2004-03-11 by Stefan Trethan

On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 04:39:49 -0000, Ben H. Lanmon <bhleavi@...> 
wrote:

>  And here I thought TT was to be the quick and easy method, after
> reading all these post on TT and Gravy I am not too sure about
> that.


You can just go out in the shop and buy the photo paper if you do not like
the work.
it is not very expensive and the results are very good.
I think it is not really worth making the starch paper from a financial 
point of view.
it is just for the fun of experimenting.

ST

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