Homebrew PCBs

ok, thanks stefan, i only used the tooth pick to get some small dots 
on the test pcb, will not be using the pick to lay out the board. you 
are right on the thermo printer for acrylic,but waterglass may have a 
different composition than acrylic. i have a thermo now, am working 
on getting the carteridge cleaned to try it.
i dont nessercerly have to use waterglass but as you have stated 
there are problems with all other salutions.after hardning the 
waterglass didnt come off the trace, the etched board will have to be 
sanded to remove the silicate, it fairly durable.
i do appreciate your response and if you hve more to add please do so.
mebo 


> 
> Don't waste your time with a thermo printer.
> I tried with acrylic paint (water solube strongly diluted in the 
form of 
> floor polish).
> If you have any chance to get this working it is with a piezo.
> 
> 
> Also keep in mind that anything works "toothpick applied".
> e.g. use colophony resin solved in alcohol or paint thinner.
> works perfectly if applied with a brush (or toothpick).
> dries in seconds to minutes in air (no hardening).
> is a good resist, and a very good flux also as a side effect.
> 
> Problem: i won't "toothpick" my pcbs and i found no way applying it
> by printing.
> 
> 
> Nearly any laquer will work very well as a resist.
> the hard part is to get it printed in a thick enough even enough 
continous 
> layer.
> i personaly very much wonder why you insist on using water glass.
> (what is the reason?) i would rather try the acrylic paint with a 
piezo.
> I see no advantage in a resist that is water soluble and needs co2 
> hardening.
> 
> looking forward to any results you get..
> 
> ST