Homebrew PCBs

I'm wondering, and maybe it has been said while I wasn't looking, if this Samsung toner sticks so well, is there any noticeable difference/improvement in either the general quality/precision of the etched results, or just in the reliability of the process?

When I was doing through-hole boards (and I've only done maybe 10 of any kind, ever) I would leave the toner on the traces as a kind of conformal coating, but once you discover the miracle of hot-plate SMD, there's no going back to all that hand drilling.

PG

On 31/01/2011, at 5:05 AM, edllew wrote:

> I use a Samsung printer (ML-1665) and went through the same process with the same results over the past couple months. I settled on glossy Staples paper since magazines gave the problems you mentioned, and I tried various heat levels and durations of applying the iron. Though the gummy paper remnants (of the gloss coating I think) are difficult to fully remove from tight areas. (I tried pulling off the gumminess with packing tape as suggested by someone on this group, which helps but doesn't entirely remove it).
> 
> I soaked the etched board for up to 1/2 hour in acetone (full strength, off the shelf from Home Depot) and it did pretty much nothing. I use sandpaper/steel wool to actually remove the toner.
> 
> My results have been pretty good, by my novice standards. A couple times I have just left much of the toner where I didn't need to solder, kind of ugly, since it was so hard to remove.
> 
> Maybe I will try the Goofoff/Xylene as someone suggested.
> 
>