Homebrew PCBs

I used to use the Samsung, staples photopaper combination, and it gave
wonderful results, but I found it too unreliable when it chose not to
transfer. I modified an inkjet printer, and I can now do 5-8mil traces
without soaking anything in water.

On Sun, Jan 30, 2011 at 1:36 PM, Piers Goodhew <piers@...> wrote:

> I'm wondering, and maybe it has been said while I wasn't looking, if this
> Samsung toner sticks so well, is there any noticeable difference/improvement
> in either the general quality/precision of the etched results, or just in
> the reliability of the process?
>
> When I was doing through-hole boards (and I've only done maybe 10 of any
> kind, ever) I would leave the toner on the traces as a kind of conformal
> coating, but once you discover the miracle of hot-plate SMD, there's no
> going back to all that hand drilling.
>
> PG
>
> On 31/01/2011, at 5:05 AM, edllew wrote:
>
> > I use a Samsung printer (ML-1665) and went through the same process with
> the same results over the past couple months. I settled on glossy Staples
> paper since magazines gave the problems you mentioned, and I tried various
> heat levels and durations of applying the iron. Though the gummy paper
> remnants (of the gloss coating I think) are difficult to fully remove from
> tight areas. (I tried pulling off the gumminess with packing tape as
> suggested by someone on this group, which helps but doesn't entirely remove
> it).
> >
> > I soaked the etched board for up to 1/2 hour in acetone (full strength,
> off the shelf from Home Depot) and it did pretty much nothing. I use
> sandpaper/steel wool to actually remove the toner.
> >
> > My results have been pretty good, by my novice standards. A couple times
> I have just left much of the toner where I didn't need to solder, kind of
> ugly, since it was so hard to remove.
> >
> > Maybe I will try the Goofoff/Xylene as someone suggested.
> >
> >
>
>
>
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>
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