Homebrew PCBs

On 27 November 2010 16:03, Leon Heller <leon355@...> wrote:

> If you extend the pads a bit, you should be able to manage it with
> suitable soldering iron, especially a Metcal like I use. You need to be
> careful, though, as resonators are easily damaged by excessive temperature.

If you can't extend the pads because the board's already made, my
technique for things like these is to hover the part a small distance
above the board. Solderblob one pad on the board, and the
corresponding pad on the part. Tweezer the part into place, holding it
level, but with the solderblobs touching. Melt the blobs, solder will
flow, and the part will be supported by one pad. Be gentle at this
point.
You then have gaps between the board and the part, into which you can
melt solder. These parts are so light that they're unlikely to shake
free from the slightly weaker solder joints.
I've done this a lot recently, having laid out a bunch of boards for
2.5x3mm crystals, with no spare pad area. They'll be fine for reflow,
but manual soldering requires this hovering tactic. Full success, and
not terribly slow. It's obvious when it's not worked, and gives you
room to get solderwick in if necessary.

Steve