Homebrew PCBs

My acid of choice is ammonium per sulfate, not ferric chloride.  I just happen
to have a radio shack down the road owned by a friend.

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> and it has nylon tip?
> or felt?
> or metal?
>
> thanks
>
> st
>
> On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:05:57 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:
>
> > I have the plotter running - slow.  And I always add angle to each 90 deg
> > trace
> > in the artwork.  A short trace placed in the inside corner of each trace.
> > The
> > angle is the shortest one that fits for the trace width. That helps and
> > touchup
> > after plotting does too.   I also sometimes keep the pcb in the plotter
> > after
> > its done, and replot after it has dried 15-20.  That CG pen I use doesn't
> > seem
> > to scrape ink off on retracing.
> >
> > Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >
> >> which tip has this pen?
> >> which color has the ink?
> >>
> >> maybe i really have to search this bottle of fe3cl... and then try
> >> different inks.
> >>
> >> The problem with using pens directly for me was that line with varies
> >> with
> >> speed.
> >> at the corners the pen slows down and the line with increases.
> >> i didn'tlike this, the were small tears at both sides of each corner.
> >>
> >> don't you have this problem with the resist pen?
> >>
> >> st
> >>
> >> On Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:06:55 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Here's what works for me, I use a HP 7475 pen plotter with a slot cut
> >> in
> >> > the
> >> > case.  I use a GC #22-222 Etch Resist Ink Pen.  1/64 " tip.  Its
> >> fitted
> >> > into a
> >> > drilled and honed out dried up HP pen.  I have to keep etching fast. I
> >> > heat Fe
> >> > CL3 on my grill outside, in a oven dish.  Wear glasses, gloves, and
> >> > apron.  I
> >> > use a oven baster to spray the center of the project.  The edges seem
> >> to
> >> > eat
> >> > off first and I keep the acid going to the board center.  This is not
> >> a
> >> > time to
> >> > walk off and come back.  I keep an eye on the board till it is
> >> complete.
> >> > You
> >> > can always put it back in, but once its eaten the copper away its
> >> done.
> >> >
> >> > Stefan Trethan wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> @Dave
> >> >> thanks for the tip with laquer thinner for solving colophony resin.
> >> >> i tried it and it is much better than alcohol.
> >> >> The "laquer" is the same density / concentration in the whole jar, it
> >> >> stays
> >> >> good dissolved without stirring etc.
> >> >> with alcohol it was always thicker at the bottom (with acetone too).
> >> >> Dries quick and leaves a shiny coat.
> >> >>
> >> >> I actually tried it as a resin for etching (because the quality is
> >> much
> >> >> better now).
> >> >> The problem is the plotter pens i have (carbide tipped) don't leave a
> >> >> thick
> >> >> enough layer to resist HCl H2O2.
> >> >> I will try repeated plotting and maybe try Fe3Cl which i have
> >> standing
> >> >> around somewhere (Does it decay in a sealed Bottle?).
> >> >>
> >> >> But i applied it with a piece of wire and with a piece of a paper
> >> towel
> >> >> "disposeable brush with needle-nose pliers handle).
> >> >>
> >> >> And this areas resisted the etching very well.
> >> >> So i think the plotter pens simply make a too thin layer.
> >> >>
> >> >> any ideas? - would be great to solder the boards with resin layer and
> >> >> also
> >> >> protection against corrosion.
> >> >>
> >> >> st
> >> >>
> >> >>
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> >> >>
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> >> >>
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> >> >
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