Homebrew PCBs

i fear i can't get exactly that one, thus i am asking..
(not even know what gc electronics is...)
do they have online descriptions of products?

st

On Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:16:17 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...> wrote:

> The pen from GC electronics Cat # 22-222 is black with 1/64 tip.  Not
> sure just what the tip might be, but its not metal.  They do dry out
> easy, so be sure to cap it when your done.  But the price was only $2.XX
> something each at my local store.  My plotter was $40 from the scrap
> yard and is a HP7475.
>
> Don Perry wrote:
>
>> I have the plotter running - slow.  And I always add angle to each 90
>> deg trace
>> in the artwork.  A short trace placed in the inside corner of each
>> trace.  The
>> angle is the shortest one that fits for the trace width. That helps
>> and touchup
>> after plotting does too.   I also sometimes keep the pcb in the
>> plotter after
>> its done, and replot after it has dried 15-20.  That CG pen I use
>> doesn't seem
>> to scrape ink off on retracing.
>>
>> Stefan Trethan wrote:
>>
>> > which tip has this pen?
>> > which color has the ink?
>> >
>> > maybe i really have to search this bottle of fe3cl... and then try
>> > different inks.
>> >
>> > The problem with using pens directly for me was that line with
>> varies with
>> > speed.
>> > at the corners the pen slows down and the line with increases.
>> > i didn'tlike this, the were small tears at both sides of each
>> corner.
>> >
>> > don't you have this problem with the resist pen?
>> >
>> > st
>> >
>> > On Sat, 20 Sep 2003 21:06:55 -0400, Don Perry <mojo@...>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Here's what works for me, I use a HP 7475 pen plotter with a slot
>> cut in
>> > > the
>> > > case.  I use a GC #22-222 Etch Resist Ink Pen.  1/64 " tip.  Its
>> fitted
>> > > into a
>> > > drilled and honed out dried up HP pen.  I have to keep etching
>> fast. I
>> > > heat Fe
>> > > CL3 on my grill outside, in a oven dish.  Wear glasses, gloves,
>> and
>> > > apron.  I
>> > > use a oven baster to spray the center of the project.  The edges
>> seem to
>> > > eat
>> > > off first and I keep the acid going to the board center.  This is
>> not a
>> > > time to
>> > > walk off and come back.  I keep an eye on the board till it is
>> complete.
>> > > You
>> > > can always put it back in, but once its eaten the copper away its
>> done.
>> > >
>> > > Stefan Trethan wrote:
>> > >
>> > >> @Dave
>> > >> thanks for the tip with laquer thinner for solving colophony
>> resin.
>> > >> i tried it and it is much better than alcohol.
>> > >> The "laquer" is the same density / concentration in the whole
>> jar, it
>> > >> stays
>> > >> good dissolved without stirring etc.
>> > >> with alcohol it was always thicker at the bottom (with acetone
>> too).
>> > >> Dries quick and leaves a shiny coat.
>> > >>
>> > >> I actually tried it as a resin for etching (because the quality
>> is much
>> > >> better now).
>> > >> The problem is the plotter pens i have (carbide tipped) don't
>> leave a
>> > >> thick
>> > >> enough layer to resist HCl H2O2.
>> > >> I will try repeated plotting and maybe try Fe3Cl which i have
>> standing
>> > >> around somewhere (Does it decay in a sealed Bottle?).
>> > >>
>> > >> But i applied it with a piece of wire and with a piece of a paper
>> towel
>> > >> "disposeable brush with needle-nose pliers handle).
>> > >>
>> > >> And this areas resisted the etching very well.
>> > >> So i think the plotter pens simply make a too thin layer.
>> > >>
>> > >> any ideas? - would be great to solder the boards with resin layer
>> and
>> > >> also
>> > >> protection against corrosion.
>> > >>
>> > >> st
>> > >>
>> > >>
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>> > >>
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