Homebrew PCBs

I've certainly had little trouble with 10mil traces (0.010 inch) out of
Eagle with Ammonium Persulphate - I do find Eagle's square through-hole pads
a bit prone to over etching, but come to think about it, they etch OK,
they're just bloody small!

PG

On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 11:27 AM, Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...>wrote:

>
>
> The program generating the tracks won't change the etch results. Try a more
> dilute etchant, make sure the toner is well and truly bonded to the copper
> surface. 16 mil traces should not be a problem.
>
>
> Donald.
> --
> "Plain Text" email -- it's an accessibility issue
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> /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
>
> ----- "msilv3r" <msilv3r@... <msilv3r%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> > Thanks JP. I'm going to redo the tracks in Eagle and try it again.
> >
> > To get the thermal transfer I used this paper from DigiKey:
> >
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=182-1003-ND
> > - I had tried 20 times prior using different transfer paper, like
> > magazines and transparency paper. I was amazed at how easy the thermal
> > paper worked.
> >
> > I then put it through a lamination a bunch of times.
> >
> > I followed a video tutorial for the most part. There's a great video
> > tutorial on how the entire etching process here:
> > http://www.getlofi.com/?p=1997
> >
> > -Mike
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "jp.gleyzes" <freedom2000@...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > The tracks were really small... and may be you let the etching too
> > long time ?
> > >
> > > By the way, how did you succeed in having such a beautiful transfer
> > ?
> > >
> > > I have spent hours this week end tying to toner transfer a pcb...
> > unsuccessfully... Always some tracks missing...
> > > And I tested 12 times...
> > >
> > > JP
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "msilv3r" <msilv3r@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Slavko. I just did it and it certainly etched the copper
> > well. A little too well. I thought the transfer looked great. However
> > the etch took off the copper and then some. You can see pics of it
> > here:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > This is the transfer on the PCB. Looks good in my opinion:
> > http://www.msilverman.me/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/DSC_0138.jpg
> > > >
> > > > This is the finished etch. Looks horrible:
> > > > http://www.msilverman.me/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/DSC_0142.jpg
> > > >
> > > > I almost feel like I made the traces too small.. I made them .016
> > inches. Any recommendations?
> > > >
> > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com<Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Slavko Kocjancic <eslavko@>
> > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > msilv3r pravi:
> > > > > > Hi. I'm new to this. I recently got some H202 and HCL from a
> > chemical company. The H2O2 is 35%. I'm not sure what percentage the
> > HCL is, however it's labeled "Hydrochloric Acid, 8, PG II." I don't
> > know what ratio to use. Should I dilute the H202 with water? I'm
> > worried about the combination turning into boiling water. Also, are
> > lined latex gloves, the kind you use for kitchen cleaning, sufficient
> > gloves? Does it matter which you pour in first? I plan on doing this
> > outside. I have a plastic container for both the etching and the
> > remaining enchant.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks.
> > > > > > -Mike
> > > > > >
> > > > > Just use 1:1:1 ratio and should be ok.
> > > > > If HCl is diluted just little longer etching time will be.
> > > > >
> > > > > Pour watter into bowl after that HCl and last H2O2. You need
> > little
> > > > > amount of liquid just to cover board. Do not preheat anithing
> > and do all
> > > > > the thing outside.
> > > > >
> > > >
>
>  
>


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