Simao Cardoso wrote: > I think that in 'printed circuits handbook' is written that adding > phosphoric acid to ammonia persulfate makes it tin compatible i will > try to check that too. refered on this page http://books.google.pt/books?id=1Pbkeu6dZ_sC&pg=SA34-PA3 more on this page http://books.google.pt/books?id=1Pbkeu6dZ_sC&pg=SA34-PA16 the page before is also on-topic Google is easier than the heavy book :> To Volkan Sahin: Trying to find a recipe got me to really old patents like 3476624 (1969) where 2.25% phosphoric acid is added to a 25% solution of ammonium persulfate, among a prohibited hazard etch accelerator. And later claim that 0.5% to 15% phosphoric acid leaves the solder usable. You must know this will leave the plated pure tin black. While googling more 3 old patents came out 4419183 4636282 4130454, all using Sulfuric acid, Hydrogen Peroxide (35%), Phenolsulfonic acid, not tin compatible but tin compatible patents differ in the 5% phosphoric acid and some not important things to a chemistry ignorant like me. If you wish to try any off this, phosphoric acid can be bought as rust remover, in almost anyplace where inks are sold. The one i got only says about content 'contains solution of phosphoric acid', it's like a yellowish gel that dries in to a white paste. The 1L bottle of 85% phosphoric acid i got from the drug store it's less yellowish, almost as low viscous as water. So the rust remover must have a thicker but guessing that is something non hazard, cheap additive, maybe it's PVP and maybe won't interfere in the etch. But if you accept any advise from me. If you are doing this to test your incredible good and fast UV laser raster flatbed printer. Using it with laminated dry film, pattern plating, metallic resist plating and metallic resist compatible etchant, won't make your machine so incredible if you have to go trough all this. It's required if inkjet used, but with laser direct print you should use LPI resist and CuCl etchant and enjoy some free time and effort. And a repeatable process for soldermak. Can you get acrylic resin? Isn't expensive, mine was 5eur a 1L bottle. I bought it on one supermarket (as we call those stores here) where i also buy food, household things and so. Don't know what for people buy this but bottle says 'used to make inks and to brighten hood floor'. The benzophenone, ebay last item, was 260452044449, contact seller it may still have it. He/she is listing the 50 packages off it from July at least and only sold a few. I would bought it and oversea price given was good, but unfortunately i asked customs if they will consider it as drug or ask laboratory test and it went from office to office up to the government secretary responsibly and no one know to answer. Local chemical suppliers all ignore me. But this should be a good homebrew ink to use in the epson print head, i passed acrylic resin with a syringe in a hp head using those special clips and it passes like water. I don't have a recipe from a book to make the resist but should be 5% photoinitiator like in pva dichromated. Recently when searching for a copper plating additives supplier i was impressed by Atotech. (They are also in US) And don't only have the chemicals to plating and finishings but also LPI resists soldermask and one part legend. (Among things that make phophorizated copper anodes and anode bags in PTH useless) With my luck with chemical suppliers i didn't yet stop on the near by store but i hope they be better. Good luck!
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Dry film tenting problem & pattern plating
2010-01-09 by Simao Cardoso
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