Homebrew PCBs

The alcohol won't do anything to the toner transfer component legend either.

Most of the time i don't bother with removing the flux. If it isn't
too messy i don't mind.

I tried one of those water based flux removers that come in a spray
can (kinda like shaving foam). Even with _heavy_ scrubbing with the
brush it did not remove rosin flux. Maybe they are OK for water
soluble fluxes. Made it worse really since the surface of the rosin
became dull and white instead of clear.

Acetone is the same, it does not solve rosin the same way alcohol
does, so the surface will dry gritty. If you use acetone, you need to
get positively all rosin off without a trace left, with alcohol that's
not the case.

ST



On Tue, Feb 24, 2009 at 5:20 PM, pgdion1 <pgdion1@...> wrote:

> When I had solder training (oh, 15+ years ago?) we used alcohol. We
> used Flux Off or a Freon wash before that but when Freon was banned we
> moved to alcohol. Not as effective as Freon but it does a good job. To
> clean a board (like after I tinned it) just alcohol on a paper towel
> does good. To clean after parts are mounted, take a flux brush, cut
> the bristles down a little (maybe to 3/8") and scrub the parts with a
> alcohol soaked brush, blot with a paper towel, rinse with a little
> more alcohol and blot or air spray dry. A little messy but it works
> well and it's what is usually used for the RA and RMA fluxes.
>
> - phil
>