Well, try number 2 wasn't great at all. Actually, it was dinky-di, true blue, slap-my-butt-and-call-me-Mary perfect! A couple of other notes... I used Scotch brand 'Magic Tape'. Peels off and leaves no residue as long as you grab the paper and peel - you can't seem to lift the corner of the tape itself. Again - thanks everyone, Luc in particular! --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "phildimond" <my-yahoo-groups@...> wrote: > > Luc - I wanted to really thank you for this post. I've been trying to > do toner transfers for .. well .. forever. Never got anything even > vaguely useful. > > I am writing this with the first board that's ever been viable for me. > Very good, in fact! > > I used the same GBC Creative laminator. I have been trying to get a > Laserjet 1020 but simply surrendered. However, I do have an old 3015 > all-in-one that uses the same 12A cartridge as the 1020 - and it > worked great. I wonder if it's more in the cartridge than the printer > per se. I would guess that all printers that use the same cartridge > must have to heat the toner the same amount for optimal results, > though I also guess the more density, the better. > > The real trick is the paper, I now understand. In my case, advertising > pages from Australian Aviation worked very well. The magazine is so > irritating to read with the glossy pages, but it makes great toner > transfer paper! :^) > > I also realise now that a big secret is to make sure the board cools > before you soak off the paper, and to use lukewarm water at the > warmest. Too warm and it seems to soften the toner. > > I lost a few pads on my board, but that's just because they were too > fine (10 though doughnuts). Not a single broken (or even thin) trace > otherwise. I fattened the pads up, and I'll have another crack later > this evening. > > And you're right - the toner that does transfer sets like a rock! > > Again - THANK YOU! > > Phil > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Luc Small" <luc.small@> wrote: > > > > Hi Everyone, > > > > Chilliismyweakness: I used the following model: > > > > GBC Creative Laminator > > > > It is available from Dick Smith Electronics, catalogue number F1424, > $40: > > > > > http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/488e64bf03cce6be2741c0a87f9c076c/Product/View/F1424 > > > > I've also seen it at an Australia Post Shop for ~$44. > > > > I am pretty happy with the results I am getting from it. It works very > > well with the Open Road paper, but doesn't seem to work at all with > > the Press'n'Peel film. I don't think enough heat gets through the > > thicker Press'n'Peel film to properly bond the toner to the board. > > However, I can't see much need to use the more expensive film when the > > Open Road is free and works just as well for me. > > > > One of its virtues is that it can handle 1.6mm FR4 board without > > modification. I think the rollers have some give (perhaps they are > > spring loaded), and can therefore adapt to the board's thickness. I > > found that feeding the board on a slight angle worked best, i.e. so > > that one corner contacts with the rollers first. Feeding it in this > > way, the board never got stuck. Feeding it in parallel to the rollers > > occasionally caused the rollers to jam. > > > > I still think it would be nice to modify the laminator at some point > > so it can fuse boards in a single pass. I think these things use a low > > speed AC motor running at a fixed speed. I think I might eventually > > turf this motor, and put a little DC motor, gearbox and a speed > > controller in its place. But that project is some time off - for the > > moment I'll just stick to feeding the board through ~8 times or so. > > > > > > Myc: Thanks for the tip vis Avery and Dennison labels. My first > > thought was Kapton tape since I have a couple of rolls of the stuff > > lying around and I can't even melt it with the tip of my soldering > > iron. However, I'd does seem kind of wasteful and expensive to use > > such 'fancy tape' for making PCBs. Will give the labels a go. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Luc > > >
Message
Re: HP P1005/P1006 Printer
2008-09-04 by phildimond
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