Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:30:50 +0200, derekhawkins <eldata@...> wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > With all due respects to Volkan...But what about the ink from MIS that
> >
> > he claimed worked and you echoing same? Was its etch resist properties
> >
> > never tested? Is it no longer a candidate in terms of suitability?
> 
> 
> Sure it is. He has found out that "black" isn't really "black" only
but a  
> color mixture, so he has done a test of the different colors "by
hand",  
> which is great.

To clarify: black is black. What he found (and I'd previously
suggested) is that which inks the printer uses to -get- black depend
on things like which paper type you select in the printer driver. As
it happens, with some settings it was mixing black and cyan, and as it
turns out those were the least effective, that yellow and magenta (in
that order) are the most effective.

> I really don't understand what you mean at all. I don't  
> see the color thing as a hindrance to using this ink at all. IMO it
is the  
> best bet for inkjet printing right now, and it is known working, and
it is  
> relatively cheap and easy to get - i have no desire at all to try  
> something else.

I agree. If it works, use it. It would only take a tiny mix of magenta
into the yellow to make it more visible on the copper. Yellow is
easily tainted by the smallest amounts of the other colors.

BTW, black inks in Canon, HP, and some other bubblejet printers are
actually pigmented inks, although the color is dye. This is not
necessarily true if you by aftermarket 3rd party inks for them. Just
an FYI. All my Canons now have aftermarket inks in them, so I can't
test them.

Steve Greenfield