Homebrew PCBs

I've been in a store today where they sell HP stuff. Even if this 
high-gloss laser paper is in their price list, they hardly know it 
exists. So, they promised me that they will look into it. In the 
meanwhile they gave me two sample sheets - one HP laserjet tough 
paper - kind of plastic waterproof one...which turned out bad since 
most of the toner remained on the sheet. then HP everyday photo 
paper - useless, since transfer comes out totally smudged. Next one 
was HP laserjet soft gloss paper. This one is better - toner 
transfers excellent, sharp, and when i put it into water paper goes 
off in less than a minute. Remaining last layer (which isn't 
plastic, since this paper doesn't have high gloss finish) is 
scrubbed easily with fingers. All would be excellent if a few parts 
of toner wouldn't keep falling off when scrubbing. I tried from 1 to 
5 minutes of ironing, to no avail. I wonder if my iron is really 
that unlevel...
Second thing is you mustn't move iron since this paper doesn't 
really stick to copper and moving results in smudged transfer and 
wasted procedure. I think i prepare my board well enough, so that 
isn't it. so...back to experimenting.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
<darrell.vandenberg@...> wrote:
>
> I have tried the HP premium transparencies as that is all they had 
> at the Staples here in Canada. The results were very poor going 
> through a Laserjet 6L. I did not bother to even try it on the 
board 
> as there was some open areas and low toner adhesion. I will try 
with 
> a different laser printer and let you guys know. Has anyone tried 
> the Staples brand of transparencies?? 
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "braincambre500" 
> <braincambre500@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > Hello Sir Paul,
> > 
> > I have also tried many different chemicals, to get that last 
layer 
> off
> > the board...to no avail.
> > 
> > I finally found out that 'boiling water' does it. I keep the 
board 
> in
> > the boilding water, with a pair of needle-nose pliers, then I 
use 
> that
> > green scouring pad, and scrub it off, while keeping that board 
good
> > and hot. Works well for me, my friend.
> > 
> >                                  ...your friend, Patrick
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "protonceksleeperman"
> > <protoncek@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'll post just once and reply to all...
> > > first to stefan:
> > > I found one dealer who should have this HP high gloss laser 
> paper. 
> > > It's just...why is always the best and most expensive ?it only 
> comes 
> > > in 200 sheets and costs about 56 euro...i'll go and ask them 
if 
> they 
> > > have it.
> > > 
> > > i have one old iron which doesn't have steam, but i guess i'll 
> > > better check out if it has level surface...otherwise aluminium 
> plate 
> > > is a good solution.
> > > 
> > > i'll try out transparency with cloth protection, as you 
> suggested 
> > > and see the results. it's just... Murphy has made sure that 
> (again) 
> > > i have plenty of laser transparencies, but i'm out of inkjet 
> > > ones...so, out to store you go...
> > > 
> > > i'll try to get some cheaper version of that famous HP...from 
> posted 
> > > it's just too good to be true. If i get it and get some 
results, 
> i 
> > > will post them, too.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "protonceksleeperman" 
> > > <protoncek@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi folks! 
> > > > As all of you, i'm trying to make my first PCB, too. And, as 
> many 
> > > of 
> > > > you, i too have problems. I tried several papers, (since i'm 
> in 
> > > > Europe, i can't get a hold of those mentioned in groups, 
> usually 
> > > from 
> > > > USA), and most of the times some of the toner peels off, 
while 
> > > last 
> > > > layer of paper is very hard to remove. I have measured temp 
on 
> my 
> > > > iron, and it's about 230 degrees, so it is enough. I even 
> tried 
> > > with 
> > > > lower temp (about 200) but results were the same. 
> > > > So, i guess my next try is transparency. But, here i need 
some 
> > > info, 
> > > > please. Like what do you do toi prevent transparency to 
crook 
> > > > (distort) from heat? Maybe by applying iron on parts and not 
> on 
> > > whole 
> > > > board? how long should all last? And would transparency work 
> in 
> > > > laminator? 
> > > > 
> > > > Any of suggestions would be very welcome. 
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks! Paul, Slovenia
> > > >
> > >
> >
>