Homebrew PCBs

George,

If I was building with a big motor, i would make the pcb move up and 
down rather than the motor..

its only a few millimetres so i don't think it would affect your 
grip on the board

Chris

(ps  i'm kind of known for lateral thinking  :-)

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "soffee83" <soffee83@y...> 
wrote:
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, JanRwl@A... wrote:
> >Hassle!  But no motor-brushes,sparks, "buzz",  etc.
> 
> I was meaning to mention that I wasn't looking forward to the 
> recommended speed change thing.:(
> 
> With the press on low speed like it's been, and the belt-cover top 
> flipped open, it puts off a mild soothing "rumble", which is great 
for 
> that tedious million hole stuff. I can't imagine sitting in front 
of 
> my B&D router for that. I'm not even sure about that length 
of "Dremel 
> time" now that I think about it.
> 
> I found three raw 120VAC motors here, but they're gigantic. 
They're 
> also a lot slower. I use one in a drum spinning thing I made. Is 
the 
> thing you're talking about small enough to mount directly in a 
> travelling carriage? Is it noisy, and does it take a chuck 
attachment 
> directly?
> 
> Good point also on the pivot to bit distance and it's "skew" 
factor.
> 
> Not to change the subject, but I was also wondering how bad it is 
to 
> sink the bits further up in a chuck to shorten the amount of 
> unsupported bit material? I fear that jaws gripping the spiralled 
part 
> of it is not good. Like everyone's saying though, we really only 
need 
> a little more than the board thickness.
> 
>                     -George
>