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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Tinning the board? silver/tin solder or copper/tin solder?

2005-11-21 by Mike Young

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
> I have the choice of:
>
> ROSOL 1S S-Sn96,Ag4 250g 15eur
>
> ROSOL 3 S-Sn97,Cu3 250g 10eur
>
> Now what is the difference between paste with copper and paste with
> silver? I don't really mind the price since it will go a long way.
> I remember some leadfree solder (wire) has silver in it too?

It's too late in the day for hard science, but here's the reader's digest 
version. Eutectic tin (liquidus, or molten, that is) alloys freely with many 
metals, including silver. Adding silver to the solder reduces the silver 
taken from the solderee in the intermetallic layer formed during soldering. 
Sn96Ag4 also melts at a higher temperature than Sn63Pb37. This is useful for 
reflowing boards with components on both sides. The first side is reflowed 
at a high temp profile using tin/silver. The second side is then populated 
and reflowed with a suitable paste on a lower temp profile. If lead-free is 
a concern (one presumes it is), tin/copper melts about 20^C lower than 
tin/silver, 220^C versus 240^C; tin/bismuth/silver is lower still. The more 
familiar tin/lead melts at about 180^C, much lower than any of the lead-free 
alloys.

Since the mechanical or electrical properties aren't the major concern for 
choosing between the two, tin/copper would work as well or better than 
tin/silver for our use. For that matter, I'm still using Kester 44. Just 
ordered another 1/2 lb., in fact. Nothing wets as well as that old crap.

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