--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote: > > They depend on the high insulation properties of paper to hold the > charge, and it's induced by the corona wire. > > Yes copper will redistribute the charge. Instead of inducing a charge, > directly contact and give about what's needed at the drum. > > Might want to look back at the discussions Stefan and I had last year or > so on it, probably everything you're likely to hit anytime soon and then > some.. > > End conclusions: > > Tape your board edges, and with reasonably good surface you're not > scratching your drum, or not much. Cost of doing easy prints is maybe a > toner cartridge sooner rather than later, $20 now and then. > > My HP6L prints great onto large areas of aluminum foil taped to a > page. Get wrinkles from not being attached, and flakes off here and > there from being too smooth and also flexible. Way, way better than I > expected to print on straight metal. Transfers rather well, metal beats > the heck out of paper for getting heat to the copper. Thin copper sheet > and adhere to board would probably work fairly well for me, but other > things do well enough and haven't worked on it too much beyond tests. > > With mods for straight board and keeping the right weak charge on the > copper, it's likely it will work, at least on my 6Ls. Even straight > path printers aren't straight, major work required on the path for the > board. TT works ok enough, so while it'd be great and I have extra > printers at hand for it, it's still a very back burner project. > > Heck not too much point reading the old discussions now. That's where > mine was at, and I think mine was going as well as anyone's trying it. > > Feed direction alignment is easy enough, do it optically at the same > point on the board edge, and top and bottom should be aligned well in > the feed axis. Other axis would be mechanically aligned, but still > should be able to get it pretty good too. > > Alan Ok, this is probably a Real Dumb idea, but I'll toss it out, just on the chance that it might work. How about printing directly to copper foil, and then gluing the copper foil to a fiberglass substrate, and then etching to make your board. I know that you can get Copper foil at some craft stores (I currently have a sheet of 2 mil Copper foil.). Yeah, it sounds like a LOT of work. And, it probably won't work. But, it might be worth a try. Dave
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Re: laser printing directly to the copper boards?
2005-11-19 by Dave
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