Les Newell wrote: > Hi Mike, > >>Les, I agree that that is the ultimate method of making PCBs >>but...you forgot to mention follwing problems: >>1. You must have a good UV exposure box-- let's not start another >>dicussioon today what that means. It is not a trivial issue although >>for some it might be. > > I have no problems with a very basic setup. I admit I tend to stick to > 12 thou track/gap because I know it will work every time. For one-offs > size isn't usually a problem so you can afford to space things out a bit. I've done 10cm x 10cm boards full of 8mil tracks and spacing for fine pitch 128pin DSP chips and FPGAs using the uv method and there was no track breakages or shorts. >>2. Once you have the box you need to calibrate the bloody box and >>depending what light it uses the timing might be all over the map, >>depending on the preheated condition of the lamp. Depending on what >>you are using. Calibration alone is not for weak people either. >> > Leaving the box on for 10-15 minutes before use solves the warmup > problem. Calibration is a little tedious but it isn't exactly difficult. > You only have to do it once. I've found with my 4-flouro tube box, results are consistant as soon as i use it, which is usually less than 1-2mins after switch-on. I use a 125 Watt HID box mostly now, and it certainly needs a warm-up of 5-10mins. Exposure works to ~80-90% in 30secs with precoated negative pcb, so i use 90secs for excellent results. Calibration was easy. >>3. PCB material: buy ready made (expensive), I get my pcb vendor to coat and cut a whole panel, and it works out very cheap. I store the stuff in the fridge.
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Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Update on toner transfer problems reported a week ago....
2005-11-16 by Russell Shaw
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