Homebrew PCBs

Hi Mike,

I think with the toner transfer stuff, what works for any of us 
doesn't actually mean it is going to work for someone else.  There 
are a lot of variables in the process as a whole and that is part of 
the problem with getting universal results.  

Stefan, I believe, is the proponent of using a fuser from a laser 
printer.  I use mostly the .062" thick PCB material and nothing less 
(for no other reason than that is what I can find easily when I need 
it).  So, I am going to keep a watchful eye out for either a used 
laminator or an old laser printer that I can hack the fuser out of.  

I really hate buying something new (like a new laminator) to hack it 
up only to find that it won't work to my expectations :-(  Don't 
mind hacking apart older used stuff though, even if I have to pay a 
few bucks for it.

Thanks again for all the input!

Chris


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> 
wrote:
>
> Chris, 
> 
> Thickness of the board is another issue I didn't want to add  it 
to 
> my answer to simplify the matteer. I am using 40 and 60 mills 
> fiberglass and 60 mills phenolic crap, that is 45 years old. I am 
> also using 10 mills flex. All of them work fine but only AS LONG 
AS I 
> am using that secret paper. The minute I switch to something else 
I 
> get results all over teh map. In fact I can use common laser bond 
> paper and get the same results as any other paper except for that 
> secret Staples paper.
> 
> I tried making my own dextrine paper, I tried printing on 
aluminum, 
> wax paper, baking  paper, lables backing paper (whose idea was 
that? 
> That was insane!), I tried tracing paper, photographic paper, I 
tried 
> plotting on copper directly, I sacrificed my laser printer to 
laser 
> print on copper directly, I tried making my own ink for inkjet 
*hello 
> a new inkjest printer...), I tried machinists paint and scratch 
and 
> etch... and many variations. Now, steam iron works but on small 
POCBs 
> with heavy (to be defined ;) tracks...
> 
> All methods produced ok to good results some of the time to most 
of 
> the time. I do not believe in using a pen to correct a laminated 
PCB.
> 
> Once I run out of my secret paper supply I will switch to the PMS 
> paper.
> 
> What works (FOR ME) is this combination...ok, I won't mention it 
> agin, I mentioned it in a previous email.  Mike
>