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framing, also: newbie

framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by grue1970

hi, i'm new here. it seems to me that the best way to archive frame an
inkjet print is to use those little plastic corners that self-stick to
a mounting board. is that right?

if so, the next thing is, i should be leaving at least a 1" border of
paper around my print so that the corners don't come in contact with
the printed ink. am i doing well so far?

now basically when assembling a frame, matt and mounting board, these
things are just sandwiched together without any special gluing or sealing?

final question - what size corners does one use for 13x19 paper?

thanks
-steve

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by jlk4410

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "grue1970" <grue1970@...> 
wrote:
>
> hi, i'm new here. it seems to me that the best way to archive frame an
> inkjet print is to use those little plastic corners that self-stick to
> a mounting board. is that right?
> 
> if so, the next thing is, i should be leaving at least a 1" border of
> paper around my print so that the corners don't come in contact with
> the printed ink. am i doing well so far?
> 
> now basically when assembling a frame, matt and mounting board, these
> things are just sandwiched together without any special gluing or sealing?
> 
> final question - what size corners does one use for 13x19 paper?
> 
> thanks
> -steve
>
I'm a newbie here at this group, somewhat new to Digital B&W. 

I think it's best to isolate the print from the environment. I like simple black wooden 
frames, with a sealed craft paper backing on the frame. Have seen suggestions for 
"outgassing" an inkjet print before framing,{Place print between two archival papers and 
allow it to rest for 12 hours}  to dissapate any moisture. I'm not comfortable with the idea 
of open sides- I have seen moisture migrate in from the edges of a clip frame. I also like 
more matte. Try 3-4" all around for an 13x19 print; a good presentation is everything. 
Keep the glass away from the print!
You did say archive? as in archival?

Julian Kaiser

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by Clayton Jones

Hello Steve,

Welcome to the forum.

>hi, i'm new here. it seems to me that the best way to archive frame 
>an inkjet print is to use those little plastic corners that 
>self-stick to a mounting board. is that right?

That is one way to do it, but it has two disadvantages.  First, when
the print is attached to the backing board (however the attachment is
done), it must be precisely placed so that it is properly positioned
in the window mat opening.  This requires great care and takes more
time.  A much quicker and easier way is to hinge the top of the print
to the underside of the window mat using acid free hinging tape.  It
can be done quickly and ensures that the print will always be properly
positioned.  The window mat is then hinged to the backing board in the
usual manner.  This arrangement still allows lifting the window mat
and inspecting the print, including it's hidden edges.

For hinging tape I like the self-adhesive acid free linen hinging tape
made by Lineco, Inc.  It has a peel-off paper backing and comes in
several widths.  It can be purchased on-line from various sources,
just Google it.  They also make a linen hinging "tissue", which is
extremely thin.  It's harder to work with and not as strong, but is so
thin it's translucent and nearly invisible.  I use it for very small
prints.

The second disadvantage of corners is that, depending on the width of
the print border, the plastic corner may be close enough to the window
mat opening to raise the edge and create an unsightly bulge.


>if so, the next thing is, i should be leaving at least a 1" border 
>of paper around my print so that the corners don't come in contact 
>with the printed ink. 

I like to leave as large a border as possible.  One reason is that it
keeps the hinging tape further away from the image area.  It also
allows a comfortable "reveal" around the image.  I use up to 3/8" on
11x14 prints with 4-ply matt board.   It looks just like the float
mount technique of dry mounted silver prints and has the advantage of
keeping the signature on the print, rather than the backing board. 


>now basically when assembling a frame, matt and mounting board, 
>these things are just sandwiched together without any special 
>gluing or sealing?

Other than hinging the window mat to the backing board, I use nothing
else.  I suppose if it's going directly into a frame even that isn't
necessary.  But I more often sell the matted print in a sleeve
unframed, and I want it to hold together when people pull it out to
look at it.

A final thought - some people prefer to use the corners, in spite of
all the above, because they don't want to put hinging tape on the
print.  Seems to me that the tape would only become an issue if
someone wanted to remove the print from the mat for some reason.  At
that point the choice would be to peel off the tape and leave a rough
surface, or cut the tape at the edge and leave the remainder on the
back edge of the print.  This is just personal preference of course -
you'll have to make up your own mind on that one.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Clayton


Info on black and white digital printing at    
http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by djon43

Seems to me that the tape would only become an issue if
> someone wanted to remove the print from the mat for some reason.  At
> that point the choice would be to peel off the tape and leave a rough
> surface, or cut the tape at the edge and leave the remainder on the
> back edge of the print.

Not quite... if an image is to be considered
valuable/collectable/archival, rather than simply decorative, print
curators and galleries have always preferred linen or paper hinges
with organic adhesive for photos (just as with etchings, lithos etc)
because they need to be able to easily remove the print from the
mount. "Easily remove" means steam or slight heat, as from a steam iron.  

This is the reason dry-mounted prints by famous photographers (eg
Weston, Adams) have always commanded much lower prices than unmounted
prints.

Adhesive sprays and peel off backings have always defined
photos/prints as decorative pieces, as opposed to valuable "art"
pieces...reducing value even lower than dry mounting.

[Digital BW] Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by Sam McCandless

This is just a footnote, Steve, to Clayton's comprehensive and nicely 
detailed response to your post. As an economy, I try to do 
everything, even framing, for myself despite being both all thumbs 
and short on space. I'm sure both those influence my suggestion. 
Which is, in addition to doing it as Clayton does, that you consider 
starting with the Light Impressions materials. Later, if you print a 
lot, I expect you'll find the functional equivalent somewhere else 
for less. But, at least for starters, I'd consider buying from Light 
Impressions and not hesitate to ask them for advice when you're in a 
hurry and a little uncertain. I window-shop their informative and 
well illustrated catalogs but usually order on-line at 
<http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping>.
--
Sam

[Digital BW] Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by how786

I have found this place to be cheaper and always have more stock
than Light Impressions. So often, LI is out of stock of what I want.

http://www.archivalmethods.com/

Howard

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Sam McCandless
<samcc@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> This is just a footnote, Steve, to Clayton's comprehensive and nicely 
> detailed response to your post. As an economy, I try to do 
> everything, even framing, for myself despite being both all thumbs 
> and short on space. I'm sure both those influence my suggestion. 
> Which is, in addition to doing it as Clayton does, that you consider 
> starting with the Light Impressions materials. Later, if you print a 
> lot, I expect you'll find the functional equivalent somewhere else 
> for less. But, at least for starters, I'd consider buying from Light 
> Impressions and not hesitate to ask them for advice when you're in a 
> hurry and a little uncertain. I window-shop their informative and 
> well illustrated catalogs but usually order on-line at 
> <http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping>.
> --
> Sam
>

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by Mark Rogers

There have already been many good responses, but I will throw in my
two cents. Corners are convienent if you want to quickly swap prints.
Avoid PVC corners. Lineco's archival mounting corners are excellent
and if you are really worried about it lasting their Mylar corners are
the best but cost twice as much. They also have corners with cutouts
in them for prints with smaller borders.

Personally, I just use Lineco hinging tissue and attach the print to
the back of the mat. Then I don't need to bother with hinging the mat
to the backing board. Lineco makes several different versions. If you
are concerned about changing it out, or concered about conseravation
then you should use their "gummed" hinging paper or tape which is
water reversible. Don't bother with this for dye based inkjet prints
since they are not archival prints and water is very harmful to them.
For my work I generaly use their acid free self adhesive hinging
products since they do not require water atcivation. 

I have more info about mounting techniques with some pictures on my
company website under picture framing info:
http://framedestination.com/picture_frame_info.html
My company also carries the Lineco products and tries to ship same day
or 1-2 days if the order includes mats or frames. If you request
overnight or 2nd day air shipping we often do same day even on mat and
frame orders.

Cheers,

Mark 
President
Frame Destination, Inc.
http://www.framedestination.com


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "grue1970"
<grue1970@...> wrote:
>
> hi, i'm new here. it seems to me that the best way to archive frame an
> inkjet print is to use those little plastic corners that self-stick to
> a mounting board. is that right?
> 
> if so, the next thing is, i should be leaving at least a 1" border of
> paper around my print so that the corners don't come in contact with
> the printed ink. am i doing well so far?
> 
> now basically when assembling a frame, matt and mounting board, these
> things are just sandwiched together without any special gluing or
sealing?
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> final question - what size corners does one use for 13x19 paper?
> 
> thanks
> -steve
>

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-18 by Clayton Jones

Hello Djon,

>if an image is to be considered valuable/collectable/archival, rather 
>than simply decorative, print curators and galleries have always 
>preferred linen or paper hinges with organic adhesive for photos(just 
>as with etchings, lithos etc) because they need to be able to easily 
>remove the print from the mount. "Easily remove" means steam or
>slight heat, as from a steam iron.  

Good point, thanks.  In such a case then certainly use removable
hinging tape such as Mark described.

Another thing I didn't get into was the different ways of making
hinges ("T" hinges, etc).


Regards,
Clayton


Info on black and white digital printing at    
http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-19 by grue1970

All - thanks.  i went out to our hobby lobby and got some metal frame
sides and had them cut some UV glass and a black matt. i told them i
wanted the acid-free matt and backing. i also asked for some tape
instead of the corners per this thread. they gave me an acid-free 3M
watercolor tape.

i assembled the frame and slid in the glass. next i lined up and taped
the picture to the matt using 1 strip along only the top-edge of the
picture. 1/2 the tape on the picture, 1/2 on the back of the matt. i
pressed the tape down, drawing my gloved finger over it several times.
finally, i slid the matt/picture and the backing board into the frame
and well, is that it?

i think i might be missing something on the hinging thing? someone
mentioned t-hinge. i'm going to browse the site posted.

fyi - i use an epson R2400 printer and 13x19 premium luster or velvet
fine art paper.

-steve

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-19 by grue1970

ah, mark at your site right now... perfect. thanks.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Rogers"
<mrgs1001@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> There have already been many good responses, but I will throw in my
> two cents. Corners are convienent if you want to quickly swap prints.
> Avoid PVC corners. Lineco's archival mounting corners are excellent
> and if you are really worried about it lasting their Mylar corners are
> the best but cost twice as much. They also have corners with cutouts
> in them for prints with smaller borders.
> 
> Personally, I just use Lineco hinging tissue and attach the print to
> the back of the mat. Then I don't need to bother with hinging the mat
> to the backing board. Lineco makes several different versions. If you
> are concerned about changing it out, or concered about conseravation
> then you should use their "gummed" hinging paper or tape which is
> water reversible. Don't bother with this for dye based inkjet prints
> since they are not archival prints and water is very harmful to them.
> For my work I generaly use their acid free self adhesive hinging
> products since they do not require water atcivation. 
> 
> I have more info about mounting techniques with some pictures on my
> company website under picture framing info:
> http://framedestination.com/picture_frame_info.html
> My company also carries the Lineco products and tries to ship same day
> or 1-2 days if the order includes mats or frames. If you request
> overnight or 2nd day air shipping we often do same day even on mat and
> frame orders.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mark 
> President
> Frame Destination, Inc.
> http://www.framedestination.com
> 
>

Re: framing, also: newbie

2006-03-19 by Clayton Jones

Hello Steve,

>All - thanks.  i went out to our hobby lobby and got some metal 
>frame sides and...and well, is that it?

Yes, sounds like you are well on the way.


 
>i think i might be missing something on the hinging thing? someone
> mentioned t-hinge. 

T-hinges are just a way of using two separate hinges made of two short
tape strips each, such that only a very small amount of tape is on the
art work.  Hard to explain with just words, but any good framing web
site will have illustrations.  There are lots of ways to skin this cat.


Regards,
Clayton


Info on black and white digital printing at    
http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm

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