Digital BW, The Print

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I'm very happy now! I just coated a few prints with some Clearshield
coating I got today, and the results are relly excellent. A single coat
with a small foam roller is enough to get a nice surface, no bronzing
and deep blacks comparable to what you'd expect from good RC papers.

The risk of getting dust on the print is minimized since you only need a
single coat and the print is dry to the touch within ten minutes. This
is much better than the Golden coatings I'd tried previously. They
required four coats, and I always got far too much dust on the prints,
no matter what I did.

The texture is similar to semigloss RC papers - not pefectly smooth, but
even across the entire print.

And yes, I know that Hydrocote and a #30 Mayer rod is the preferred
approach, but neither of those are easily available in Norway, or in
Europe for that matter... 

A local supplier had the Clearshield, and I liked the test-print he sent
me, so I decided to go for that. Besides, I don't need a coating station
for this, I can do everything on the kitchentable...

--
Daniel Staver
http://daniel.staver.no

Daniel,

Did you have any problems with foaming or bubbles when applying the  
coating with the roller?

Carl

On Saturday, September 20, 2003, at 08:42  AM, Daniel Staver wrote:

> I'm very happy now! I just coated a few prints with some Clearshield
> coating I got today, and the results are relly excellent. A single coat
> with a small foam roller is enough to get a nice surface, no bronzing
> and deep blacks comparable to what you'd expect from good RC papers.
>
> The risk of getting dust on the print is minimized since you only need  
> a
> single coat and the print is dry to the touch within ten minutes. This
> is much better than the Golden coatings I'd tried previously. They
> required four coats, and I always got far too much dust on the prints,
> no matter what I did.
>
> The texture is similar to semigloss RC papers - not pefectly smooth,  
> but
> even across the entire print.
>
> And yes, I know that Hydrocote and a #30 Mayer rod is the preferred
> approach, but neither of those are easily available in Norway, or in
> Europe for that matter...
>
> A local supplier had the Clearshield, and I liked the test-print he  
> sent
> me, so I decided to go for that. Besides, I don't need a coating  
> station
> for this, I can do everything on the kitchentable...
>
> --
> Daniel Staver
> http://daniel.staver.no
>
>
>
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> Did you have any problems with foaming or bubbles when applying the  
> coating with the roller?

No. I use some force when applying the coat at first, then I gradually
lower the pressure of the roller until there is almost no pressure. This
seems to smooth out the coating at the end.

I remember I had to dilute the Golden coatings up to 50% with water to
get a smooth coat, but this one seems to work very well right out of the
can.

I've only done this a few times, so there might be better ways to do
this, but the results I'm getting are already very good.

--
Daniel Staver
http://daniel.staver.no

There more info on Clearshielf Coating at:
http://www.livick.com/method/inkjet/pg2a.htm
Cheers,
Andre

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel Staver" 
<daniel@p...> wrote:
> > Did you have any problems with foaming or bubbles when applying 
the  
> > coating with the roller?
> 
> No. I use some force when applying the coat at first, then I 
gradually
> lower the pressure of the roller until there is almost no pressure. 
This
> seems to smooth out the coating at the end.
> 
> I remember I had to dilute the Golden coatings up to 50% with water 
to
> get a smooth coat, but this one seems to work very well right out 
of the

> can.
> 
> I've only done this a few times, so there might be better ways to do
> this, but the results I'm getting are already very good.
> 
> --
> Daniel Staver
> http://daniel.staver.no

* -----Original Message-----
* From: sceptre12345 [mailto:am1000@videotron.ca] 
* Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2003 12:30 PM
* To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
* Subject: [Digital BW] Re: Coating success with Clearshield Gloss
* 
* 
* There more info on Clearshielf Coating at: 
* http://www.livick.com/method/inkjet/pg2a.htm
* Cheers,
* Andre
* 
Andre,

Thanks for the interesting link. I did some inkjet coating trials in the
spring of 2001 using ClearSheild, the Golden MSA products and other
material. It is interesting to see someone doing some fade testing with
these coatings. I didn't pursue it myself since I didn't quite like the look
of the coated prints and flaws in the coating such as dust, streaks and
bubbles were a problem.

I pulled out my samples from 2 years ago that have been in dark storage and
I want to point out that the ClearSheild coatings have yellowed just
slightly. So while there is an incredible gain in Dmax there is a loss in
paper brightness and an overall warming effect.

The comparisons of the test data on the livick site are certainly valid but
I would not take the display life numbers seriously. There are just too many
variables to draw those kind of conclusions. It should also be noted that
most of us would find 250 Lux much too dim a light for viewing prints. As an
example a 100W light bulb is in the 1000 to 1250 lux range.

Lots of good coating application data on the site.

One thing of great importance in his tests is the failure of the uncoated
UltraChrome inks. People using the full UltraChrome color set to make B&W
prints should perhaps take note of this. If you are concerned about making
archival prints or prints that maintain their neutral hue, this may not be
the best ink set to go with.

Martin Wesley
http://www.carolyn.cc/Guests/MartinWesley/pages/MW_01.html
http://www.borderless-photos.de/guests.html