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Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-03 by Paul Roark

First, the question:

Does anyone have any experience with using a solvent based acrylic adhesive to glue down canvas?​

The background:

I think ​I have found a canvas that does most of what I want -- Innova Photo Canvas Ultra Gloss. (Thank you Mark McCarvill.) It still has some annoying highlights from spot lighting. However, I just tested some in the gallery, and it seems to work well there as well as in home and office environments.

It has a very high dmax as long as the glint of the canvas surface does not unduly pick up spotlights.

Of particular note, profiles for Innova F-Type glossy (letter size) paper seem to be directly transferable to the canvas without even re-linearizing. That saves a lot of work and canvas.

I spray the Innova canvas with solvent based Premier Art Print Shield. That makes it waterproof. This is easy in a well ventilated location. (Wear goggles, & don't breath it.)

The matte canvas I was producing (only as "artist proofs" -- and they did sell well), is just too fragile to use without a thick water-based coating. I do not believe most individual photographers/printers are going to be happy dealing with water based coatings. I'm not. I could farm it all out, but that's not my style.

I also am not going to deal with water-based adhesives or gator board. Water causes canvas to shrink, and gator board is not acid free.

Currently, my plans are to glue the canvas down to acid free foam core. 3M spray 77 works well, but the overspray might be a problem.

Thus the question about experience with using a solvent based acrylic adhesive to glue down canvas. These adhesives seem to be the state of the art for may uses, but I'm not finding them discussed for what I'm proposing.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-04 by Will Harvey

Dear Paul,

Crescent makes a self adhesive mounting board, this many work for you, or not. You can get it at Blick Art Supples:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/crescent-perfect-mount-self-adhesive-mounting-board/#description

I think that Marrutt also has a similar product.

I have seen a felt bladed squeegee that is used to burnish down the print on self-adhesive cards/boards etc.

Cheers
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> On 03 Sep 2016, at 11:17 PM, Paul Roark roark.paul@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint] <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> First, the question: Â 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with using a solvent based acrylic adhesive to glue down canvas?​
> 
> The background:Â 
> 
> I think ​I have found a canvas that does most of what I want -- Innova Photo Canvas Ultra Gloss.  (Thank you Mark McCarvill.)  It still has some annoying highlights from spot lighting.  However, I just tested some in the gallery, and it seems to work well there as well as in home and office environments.
> 
> It has a very high dmax as long as the glint of the canvas surface does not unduly pick up spotlights.
> 
> Of particular note, profiles for Innova F-Type glossy (letter size) paper seem to be directly transferable to the canvas without even re-linearizing.  That saves a lot of work and canvas.
> 
> I spray the Innova canvas with solvent based Premier Art Print Shield.  That makes it waterproof.  This is easy in a well ventilated location.  (Wear goggles, & don't breath it.)
> 
> The matte canvas I was producing (only as "artist proofs" -- and they did sell well), is just too fragile to use without a thick water-based coating.  I do not believe most individual photographers/printers are going to be happy dealing with water based coatings.  I'm not.  I could farm it all out, but that's not my style.
> 
> I also am not going to deal with water-based adhesives or gator board.  Water causes canvas to shrink, and gator board is not acid free.
> 
> Currently, my plans are to glue the canvas down to acid free foam core. Â 3M spray 77 works well, but the overspray might be a problem.
> 
> Thus the question about experience with using a solvent based acrylic adhesive to glue down canvas.  These adhesives seem to be the state of the art for may uses, but I'm not finding them discussed for what I'm proposing. 
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
>

RE: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Jim Bechtel

Hi Paul,

I have no clue if what follows will help you …likely not …so possibly just informational.  but I’ve been mounting canvas to various substrates for a long time and  have had a few hard learned lessons.

Anyway as far as bonding adhesives go you don’t want to use a water based adhesive if you can help it  as they typically don’t have enough elasticizers  in them so they won’t move well with the breathing of the canvas .. a paper print mount should be ok… The only water based product I’ve ever used that seemed to come close is 3M’s fast tack 1000NF but I don’t use it with canvas or fabric type stock.  I guess I wouldn’t be afraid to do it but I use a solvent based stock  simply because I know  what it does..  ..  Both a silicon based and solvent based do have  better elastisizer  content  so a better way to go. 

 

A thought regarding  using foam core as a substrate.  Over time I have had a few bad experiences with that and canvas..  Especially on larger pieces.. they warp over time.  We figure that this is due to difference in shrinkage / expansion of the canvas & the substrate and the canvas always wins. Smaller pieces would likely work well but larger pieces I won’t mount on foam core ever…. anymore..

 

Ok the top coats.. Many canvas materials that are made only  for  water based inks will soften and become a bit stretchy if you lay enough solvent top coat on them …They have always ended up just fine after a couple of days but  some canvas you wouldn’t believe how stretchy it can get.. I actually made a few oval gallery wraps doing this some years back.. Not perfect but you’d be surprised at how nice they were ( Bulldog solvent & Fredrick’s WR canvas) .

  

 

Ok lastly I totally get your reason for not wanting to use gator board.. It is not archival .. but with the help of a couple of curators out this way ( YNP / Smithsonian & Museum of the Rockies)  we have a few solutions for that.. Option one is to coat the mount side with gesso which is a proper barrier.. the other is to use Beinfang  Rag Mount in a mounting press which also provides the proper barrier. That also works with Masonite.. but I don’t like Masonite as it’s too heavy. Anyway for larger pieces I want them to stay flat and this works .. I have pieces that have been out for over 15 years and their doing  just fine.  Also  I like that you can finish the edges on gator board if you want to.. I have actually grown kinda fond of gator board..  For high end art you can bond a piece of acid free to the gator board then bond the art to that mix.. for the record that is bomb proof and the maximum barrier…..it’s actually perfect as long as the client steps up for the added cost..  Sorry for rambling on..

 

In the end we all have different visions  of what we want to provide our clients as product. Constructively …that is something we need to grow into.. So nothing is right or wrong ….It’s simply about what your market is and what you can pull off and make it work for them. That’s the fun part.  It’s all about relationship.

 

jimbo
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From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2016 3:17 PM
To: DigitalB&WPrint
Subject: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

 

  

First, the question:  

 

Does anyone have any experience with using a solvent based acrylic adhesive to glue down canvas?​

 

The background: 

 

I think ​I have found a canvas that does most of what I want -- Innova Photo Canvas Ultra Gloss.  (Thank you Mark McCarvill.)  It still has some annoying highlights from spot lighting.  However, I just tested some in the gallery, and it seems to work well there as well as in home and office environments.

 

It has a very high dmax as long as the glint of the canvas surface does not unduly pick up spotlights.

 

Of particular note, profiles for Innova F-Type glossy (letter size) paper seem to be directly transferable to the canvas without even re-linearizing.  That saves a lot of work and canvas.

 

I spray the Innova canvas with solvent based Premier Art Print Shield.  That makes it waterproof.  This is easy in a well ventilated location.  (Wear goggles, & don't breath it.)

 

The matte canvas I was producing (only as "artist proofs" -- and they did sell well), is just too fragile to use without a thick water-based coating.  I do not believe most individual photographers/printers are going to be happy dealing with water based coatings.  I'm not.  I could farm it all out, but that's not my style.

 

I also am not going to deal with water-based adhesives or gator board.  Water causes canvas to shrink, and gator board is not acid free.

 

Currently, my plans are to glue the canvas down to acid free foam core.  3M spray 77 works well, but the overspray might be a problem.

 

Thus the question about experience with using a solvent based acrylic adhesive to glue down canvas.  These adhesives seem to be the state of the art for may uses, but I'm not finding them discussed for what I'm proposing. 

 

Paul

www.PaulRoark.com 

 



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Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Paul Roark

Jimbo,

Thanks for the response.

>... you don’t want to use a water based adhesive if you can help ...

For various reasons. I agree.

> ... regarding using foam core as a substrate. Over time I have had a few bad experiences with that and canvas.. Especially on larger pieces.. they warp over time. We figure that this is due to difference in shrinkage / expansion of the canvas & the substrate and the canvas always wins. ...

I agree there are risks to it.

The expansion and contraction of the materials is probably mostly due to humidity. I wonder if both sides of the foam core and the canvas face are sealed if that makes a difference. The canvas will definitely be sprayed with Print Shield. Whatever is used for the bonding will probably also seal those surfaces. That leaves the back to be dealt with, if sealing to block humidity is an issue.

My latest thoughts include using low viscosity epoxy primer that can be applied with a roller. I've made camera and lens cases for years by using epoxy and nylon cordura fabric on soft polyurethane pieces cut from cheap sleeping pads sold at places like Walmart. This results in a rather strong structure. I think it would take care of the softness of the foam core. If the foam core were coated with the epoxy primer on both sides, it would be rather humidity proof and stiff.

For unglazed silverprints on mat board, I've also used small wooden stays epoxied to the back to stop the warping.

> … It’s simply about what your market is and what you can pull off ...

So true.

​Again, thanks for sharing your considerable experience.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com ​

Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Jacques Caron

Hi both of you

Being a photographer (an a woodworker too) this "tacking" question relates a lot whit what we call "surface tension". Any substrate used will warp if only one side is coated; using a 3' x 6' (and 1 1/4" thick) wood panel, if only one side is glued, let's say with Arborite, you will see the warping. It can takes a week or a year depending on the conditions but… it will warp.

If you want to test some substrate. I would consider gluing a scrap piece of the same material on the back of the mounting board to alleviate the effect. That's why you see furniture (made with Arborite for example) having a "backside" glued with a similar material to stop the warping.

Good luck

Jacques Caron

Le 2016-09-05 à 10:55, "Paul Roark roark.paul@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint]" <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> a écrit :
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Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Paul Roark

Likewise, paper company reps have told me that our inkjet papers are sometimes coated on both sides, not for printing but because the manufacturer found too much paper curl when only one side was coated.

Back to my large canvas mounting issue, in trying to find a light weight solution for a large display that needs to be easy to hang on a wall, a lightweight composite structure, coated on both sides, has appeal to me. FWIW, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandwich-structured_composite .

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com
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On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 9:07 AM, Jacques Caron jacques.caron@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint] <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>; wrote:

Hi both of you


Being a photographer (an a woodworker too) this "tacking" question relates a lot whit what we call "surface tension". Any substrate used will warp if only one side is coated; using a 3'; x 6' (and 1 1/4" thick) wood panel, if only one side is glued, let's say with Arborite, you will see the warping. It can takes a week or a year depending on the conditions but… it will warp.

If you want to test some substrate. I would consider gluing a scrap piece of the same material on the back of the mounting board to alleviate the effect. That's why you see furniture (made with Arborite for example) having a "backside" glued with a similar material to stop the warping.

Good luck

Jacques Caron

Le 2016-09-05 à 10:55, "Paul Roark roark.paul@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint]" <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> a écrit :


RE: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Jim Bechtel

I understand what you’re saying about one sided coating
.. In all the
mounting I have done I have always coated both sides and used a slip sheet
between them to hand mount and / or put the job in a vacuum press.. The
exception to this is if I’m using a laminating film. Anyway Paul mentioned
3m 77 which actually works quite well. It is thinner in viscosity as it’s a
spray and the back side of canvas usually has a some texture to it.. So
another option is 3m’s general Purpose Adhesive CA which is not a spray and
you can brush or roll it on and it’s easy to fill the tooth on the back of
the canvas that way.  It’s pretty close to a non-spray version of the 77 per
3M.. I use that here a lot.. 

 

My favorite mounting method is vac / heat mounting using a film. That bonds
to both pieces using a vac / heat bond.. I can do up to  40x60 that way..
Also a laminating machine using heated rollers does well .. These bonds are
very strong yet flexible and in the case of canvas if the substrate and the
canvas shrink or expand at different rates it doesn’t matter as the bond has
some flex to it. 

 

As far as mounting canvas to any substrate (assuming the canvas has cotton
in it) the fabric will shrink and expand with humidity changes. You could
maybe encapsulate the job but to me that seems like a long walk.. Also as
far as epoxy’s and similar materials  they won’t stand the test of time ..
as they will crack and or discolor plus x-gas forever. 

 

Your suggestion of bonding stock to the back of the job should stop warping
also..  The hard part here is to figure out a process that makes sense for
each individual as our needs and volumes probably differ. I don’t think
there is any one right answer that works for everyone. 

 

j
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From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 10:08 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

 

  

Hi both of you

 

Being a photographer (an a woodworker too) this "tacking" question relates a
lot whit what we call "surface tension". Any substrate used will warp if
only one side is coated; using a 3' x 6' (and 1 1/4" thick) wood panel, if
only one side is glued, let's say with Arborite, you will see the warping.
It can takes a week or a year depending on the conditions but
 it will warp.

 

If you want to test some substrate. I would consider gluing a scrap piece of
the same material on the back of the mounting board to alleviate the effect.
That's why you see furniture (made with Arborite for example) having a
"backside" glued with a similar material to stop the warping.

 

Good luck

 

Jacques Caron

Photographe
jacques.caron@...



 

Le 2016-09-05 à 10:55, "Paul Roark roark.paul@...
[DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint]"
<DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> a écrit :



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RE: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Jim Bechtel

Paul,

This is a left turn from where you’re at but given that it’s canvas……I have done several large multi image displays for museums and commercial use.. You used the term light weight.. easy to hang etc.. What about doing gallery wraps.. OK, ok ….just hang on … I can do very larger pieces using a stretcher bar that is ¾ x 1 ½ ….as the piece gets larger I incorporate structure that is made from ¾ x 1 stock (all bass wood) I have made gallery wraps that are 54 x 80 for this type display or so that you can pick up with one hand easily and can safely be held on the wall with 4 pieces of Velcro.. ( I swear I’m not lying about the Velcro..LOL)  We typically make standoff brackets that attach to the wall that are [painted black so that we can alter the depth of the art from the wall to create sort of a 3d effect with the art work display.. The plus of this is that you can change out the art work easily with newer material. This may sound nuts to you but in the end it quite cost effective and actually looks really good. I’ve come up with some crazy crap occasionally thru the years but this was one of the better crazy things.  For the record I’ve used the same principle using paper prints & gator board but you have to finish the edges of the gator (bondo & paint plus a 90% chance of a good cut as the gator is pretty sharp on the edges) …

 

j
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From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 11:49 AM
To: DigitalB&WPrint
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

 

  

Likewise, paper company reps have told me that our inkjet papers are sometimes coated on both sides, not for printing but because the manufacturer found too much paper curl when only one side was coated.

 

Back to my large canvas mounting issue, in trying to find a light weight solution for a large display that needs to be easy to hang on a wall, a lightweight composite structure, coated on both sides, has appeal to me.  FWIW, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandwich-structured_composite .   

 

Paul

www.PaulRoark.com 

 

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 9:07 AM, Jacques Caron jacques.caron@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint] <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  

Hi both of you

 

Being a photographer (an a woodworker too) this "tacking" question relates a lot whit what we call "surface tension". Any substrate used will warp if only one side is coated; using a 3' x 6' (and 1 1/4" thick) wood panel, if only one side is glued, let's say with Arborite, you will see the warping. It can takes a week or a year depending on the conditions but… it will warp.

 

If you want to test some substrate. I would consider gluing a scrap piece of the same material on the back of the mounting board to alleviate the effect. That's why you see furniture (made with Arborite for example) having a "backside" glued with a similar material to stop the warping.

 

Good luck

 

Jacques Caron

Photographe
jacques.caron@...



 

Le 2016-09-05 à 10:55, "Paul Roark roark.paul@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint]" <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> a écrit :

 



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Paul Roark


> ... 3m 77 which actually works quite well ...

I like the 30 sec. to 15 minute bonding window it claims to have. For my overspray issue, I can spray outside my studio and have time to haul the pieces inside for putting them together. It's the need to get that assembly right the first time that bothers me the most about the contact adhesives.

For silver prints I always used a heat mount print. But for the individual photographer/printer, I doubt the capital costs of the hardware to handle 40x60's could be spread adequately. In some museum shows we've had Samy's do that end of the business, but there are real advantages to having as much of the process be doable in-house as possible.

> ... epoxy’s ... won’t stand the test of time ..
as they will crack and or discolor plus x-gas forever.

​All epoxy yellows with UV exposure, as far as I can tell. I'm not sure the extent of that risk for inside display, where the epoxy is under the canvas, and that has also been sprayed with (somewhat) UV blocking Print Shield spray. Would the color ever affect the image?

For coatings, the non-yellowing aliphatic polyurethanes are much better for our purposes. They also have more elasticity.

The modern 100% solids versions of these with, supposedly, no VOC's might be something I'll have try. I'm not sure what odor issues those have.

(Speaking of which, the odors of some inkjet canvas products that are not well aged are rather off-putting. I never thought bad smells would be a factor in my "paper" selection.)

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by John Castronovo

We’ve always used pressure sensitive adhesive coated boards like those from Coda and never had a problem. Their Gatorfoam comes prepared with adhesive on one side and laminate on the back to prevent warping and it comes in 3/16 and 1/2 inch thicknesses as well 3/4 and 1 1/5 inch thick boards with finished edges. We also made our own boards using similar adhesive materials. I’ve got mounted 60 inch wide canvas prints from 25 years ago which were done this way and they show no sign of warping or other problems.
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From: mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 1:48 PM
To: DigitalB&WPrint 
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives




Likewise, paper company reps have told me that our inkjet papers are sometimes coated on both sides, not for printing but because the manufacturer found too much paper curl when only one side was coated.

Back to my large canvas mounting issue, in trying to find a light weight solution for a large display that needs to be easy to hang on a wall, a lightweight composite structure, coated on both sides, has appeal to me.  FWIW, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandwich-structured_composite .   

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 9:07 AM, Jacques Caron jacques.caron@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint] <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

    
  Hi both of you


  Being a photographer (an a woodworker too) this "tacking" question relates a lot whit what we call "surface tension". Any substrate used will warp if only one side is coated; using a 3' x 6' (and 1 1/4" thick) wood panel, if only one side is glued, let's say with Arborite, you will see the warping. It can takes a week or a year depending on the conditions but… it will warp.

  If you want to test some substrate. I would consider gluing a scrap piece of the same material on the back of the mounting board to alleviate the effect. That's why you see furniture (made with Arborite for example) having a "backside" glued with a similar material to stop the warping.

  Good luck

  Jacques Caron
  Photographe
  jacques.caron@videotron.qc.ca




  Le 2016-09-05 à 10:55, "Paul Roark roark.paul@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint]" <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> a écrit :

RE: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Jim Bechtel

Paul,

I think 3mm 77 is great.. I can’t fault it.. If you want to use a brush try the other 3m product I mentioned.. It’s thicker of course and lends itself better to the back side of canvas as far as filling in the tooth.

 

Overspray: I have a couple or roll paper dispensers mounted on the wall plus one sort of large work table on wheels. I use the roll paper then place the job on that and the overspray gets caught on the roll paper. Maybe not the greatest but I can do it all in the studio that way.. I kinda like that especially in the winter months.. 

 

The Vacuseal machine I have is the 4468H .. The biggest issue is really a place to put it.. but they make a small one also a 3444H The theory is one can deal with a 40 x 60 substrate and the other 32 x 40.. That being said….. used these things are frankly a good deal.. You can run them with or without heat. Most folks don’t realize it but these are perfect for semi production.. I have both 32x40  & 40 x 60 templates I’ve made from sheets of mat and you can gang mount various size prints on a sheet of 32 x 40 or 40 x 60 ..Then just cut them out..  

 

Epoxy.. I guess you get to sort that out but this type product out gasses forever even when it reaches what they call a half life it still does it.. I couldn’t go there mostly because the out gassing has to affect the printed product at some point .. we used to cast epoxy to make prototype lenses ( in my other life ..headlights , taillights etc ) they would start out clear (we did them in a vacuum bell) but after a few years they weren’t as cast.. cracks, discoloration etc.

 

In truth you have to try some of this stuff out.. just cause.. I get that .. I still try stuff out.. but for me if my or a customer’s expectation is kinda at risk I get pretty spooked at marketing it.. I try to err on the side of cautious or careful..  I honestly get a kick out of you huge.. you go where no man has gone before  all the time.. then you share and help us…that’s way kool. 

 

jimbo
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From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 1:30 PM
To: DigitalB&WPrint
Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

 

  

 

> ... 3m 77 which actually works quite well ...

 

I like the 30 sec. to 15 minute bonding window it claims to have.  For my overspray issue, I can spray outside my studio and have time to haul the pieces inside for putting them together.  It's the need to get that assembly right the first time that bothers me the most about the contact adhesives.

 

For silver prints I always used a heat mount print.  But for the individual photographer/printer, I doubt the capital costs of the hardware to handle 40x60's could be spread adequately.  In some museum shows we've had Samy's do that end of the business, but there are real advantages to having as much of the process be doable in-house as possible.   

 

> ...  epoxy’s ... won’t stand the test of time ..

as they will crack and or discolor plus x-gas forever. 

 

​All epoxy yellows with UV exposure, as far as I can tell.  I'm not sure the extent of that risk for inside display, where the epoxy is under the canvas, and that has also been sprayed with (somewhat) UV blocking Print Shield spray.  Would the color ever affect the image?

 

For coatings, the non-yellowing aliphatic polyurethanes are much better for our purposes.  They also have more elasticity.

 

The modern 100% solids versions of these with, supposedly, no VOC's might be something I'll have try.  I'm not sure what odor issues those have.

 

(Speaking of which, the odors of some inkjet canvas products that are not well aged are rather off-putting.  I never thought bad smells would be a factor in my "paper" selection.)

 

Paul

www.PaulRoark.com 

 

 



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Re: [Digital BW] Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-09-05 by Paul Roark

>;Overspray: I have a couple or roll paper dispensers ...

I definitely have a roll of old-style (not waxy) butcher paper that I use for lots of things (even printing via the 7800 for things like large graph paper for helping auditorium show layouts). That may be enough, but I wonder the extent to which there are aerosols floating all over the room and ultimately sticking to other things in the room.

> The Vacuseal machine ...

Those look very useful, but they are not realistic for my volume of prints and space available.

>What about doing gallery wraps ...

They are sort of the default display mode for large canvases. I'm keeping an eye on that option. I tend to think a frame, however, makes a photographic display look a better. The separation from the surroundings and illusion that one is looking through a window at a B&W reality tends to help give a 3D feeling, I think. Also, I like to have a signing boarder of white. I also see the gallery wraps in our gallery beat up a lot on the edges by poor handling and storage. But, gallery wrap or the black edged "museum wrap" variant is on the radar.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

Re: Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-10-06 by seanmpuckett@...

Paul, I used to do this professionally.

My solution to gluing down canvas is to use gel-thick water-based acrylic artist medium (Golden is a supplier) spread over the substrate with a very fine square toothed tile trowel, then carefully unrolling the canvas and gently smoothing with a carpet roller or rolling pin to remove wrinkles but not squeegee out the adhesive.

The low water content of the medium doesn't cause canvas shrinkage. Since the medium is designed as a artist's pigment base, it is archival and acid-free. I've had excellent results and no issues with delamination or discolouring over time.

Only works with porous backings, and shouldn't be used if your canvas has already been waterproofed. Advantage is low odour. Disadvantage is cost, though you really don't need very much.

Premixed wallcovering adhesive works okay (and is cheaper) for temporary mounting or learning the process but since that stuff is designed to be eventually strippable, and has who knows what in it I'd never sell or show it.

-s

Re: [Digital BW] Re: Canvas & solvent-based adhesives

2016-10-06 by Paul Roark

Very interesting. Thanks for posting this.

The non-shrinkage of the canvas would be my main concern. It sounds like I need to try it.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com
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On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 5:29 AM, seanmpuckett@... [DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint] <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Paul, I used to do this professionally.


My solution to gluing down canvas is to use gel-thick water-based acrylic artist medium (Golden is a supplier) spread over the substrate with a very fine square toothed tile trowel, then carefully unrolling the canvas and gently smoothing with a carpet roller or rolling pin to remove wrinkles but not squeegee out the adhesive.

The low water content of the medium doesn't cause canvas shrinkage. Since the medium is designed as a artist's pigment base, it is archival and acid-free. I've had excellent results and no issues with delamination or discolouring over time.

Only works with porous backings, and shouldn't be used if your canvas has already been waterproofed. Advantage is low odour. Disadvantage is cost, though you really don't need very much.

Premixed wallcovering adhesive works okay (and is cheaper) for temporary mounting or learning the process but since that stuff is designed to be eventually strippable, and has who knows what in it I'd never sell or show it.

-s


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