Thank you very much, Brian. I'm fairly experienced with B&W conversion methods in PS so I am relieved to know that I can continue working in that fashion and change to greyscale just before printing. I like to use Hue/Saturation and Selective Color layers just underneath the B&W conversion layer (gradient map, channel mixer or whatever) to gain more control over the B&W tones. But is there any disadvantage to working this way? Clayton Jones recommends converting to greyscale directly after doing the B&W conversion of a color file and then doing levels, curves, etc. in greyscale mode. Doing it that way I'd lose out on all of the increased control I have over the B&W image using layers that are only possible in RGB space. Best, Chris --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Chapman" <brianechapman@...> wrote: > > Chris, > > This tutorial is an excellent introduction to a couple of the most > popular methods used to convert an image to black and white. > > http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/color-black-white.htm > > Any of these methods can be made more flexible by adding > additional 'conversion' layers (channel mixer, hue layer) and using > layer masks to allow only portions of each conversion layer to show > through. Different methods can also be combined. I am currently > writing an article/tutorial describing ways to improve flexibility > in some of the methods mentioned in the link (I'll post it here when > I'm done). Email me offline if you want the first draft or have any > questions, I'm happy to help. > > In my workflow I choose to convert to grayscale mode just before > printing because I like to work on the image as a black and white > RGB image so I can make adjustments to the conversion as well as > other tonal adjustments. Plus, if you're going to add a toning > layer (maybe for the K3 with color toning) later you'll need to > convert back to RGB to do so. > > Anyway, I know this was slightly off the printing topic but it's an > important part of getting good results in print form! > > Brian > http://www.brianchapmanphotography.com > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "chriskjezp" > <chriskresser@> wrote: > > > > Clayton & Paul, > > > > Thank you so much for your thorough replies. I'm really much > closer to understanding > > how this works, thanks to your generous help. > > > > It sounds like starting with an r220 and a variable tone MIS ink > set, along with Paul's ICC > > profiles and toning curves, is a good way to get my feet wet and > learn the ropes. And it > > sounds like this method can produce very good prints. > > > > Quick question: I'm assuming I can also use these ICC profiles to > do a soft-proof of the > > print in Photoshop. Is this correct? > > > > I guess I'll continue to use my Canon MP800 for heavily > toned/colorized B&W prints until I > > can afford a 2400. At that point I'll have more flexible option, > where I can use RGB/color > > workflow when printing colorized B&Ws and the ABW/greyscale (or > QTR RIP) mode when > > I'm printing "classic" and warm/cool toned B&Ws. > > > > Thanks again, > > Chris > > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Clayton > Jones" <cj@> wrote: > > > > > > Hello Chris, > > > > > > >I've read over most of your webiste Paul, and also all of the > > > >articles on Clayton's website. > > > >I'm not at all sure at what point in the B&W conversion process > > > >(from my color RAW file) I should convert from RGB to > greyscale. > > > > > > > > > I just recently revised article #9 (the 2400 workflow) > > > > > > http://www.cjcom.net/articles/digiprn9.htm > > > > > > and added more detail to the section on converting to BW. > Basically > > > the first thing is to apply whatever methods you want to remove > the > > > color while in RGB, and then change to grayscale mode. At this > point > > > the image is ready for any levels, curves and other typical work > as a > > > BW image. > > > > > > > > > >Another question that may help me decide on a printer: with the > K3 > > > >printers (2400 in particular) is it recommended to also use a > > > >greyscale workflow for B&W prints, or is it possible to get > good > > > >prints using an RGB workflow and applying any toning in RGB > color > > > >space... > > > > > > I think it's possible to get good prints that way, but they of > course > > > will have a different look and feel. The ABW mode uses > primarily the > > > three blacks with colors added only as toners, so the tones are > > > limited to a warm/cool range. If you wanted, for example, a gold > > > colored tone, or any other hue outside of the grayscale warm/cool > > > range, then the RGB/color controls approach would be required. > When > > > making BW prints with ABW there is no advantage to keeping the > image > > > in RGB. All you have is images that are three times as large. > When > > > you switch to grayscale the image becomes 1/3 it's former size. > > > > > > > > > >How about the 2200 in this regard (though it uses the UC inks > > > >rather than K3 and is thus not as "archival")? > > > > > > Yes, exactly. The K3 is much better in that regard. The K3 > printers > > > are a big step forward in technology over the 2200 (and 1280, > 220 and > > > the rest) for several reasons: better longevity, less bronzing > and > > > gloss differential on glossy papers, three blacks for much > better BW > > > prints, and the driver has essentially what is a built in semi- > RIP > > > with it's ABW system. ABW uses primarily the three blacks, > adding > > > color inks as toners to create the warm/cool tone you specify > with the > > > controls. Using a 3rd party RIP with the 2400 (such as QTR) > gives > > > even greater control over the inks (for example, eliminating the > > > Yellow from the toning mix). > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > Clayton > > > > > > > > > Info on black and white digital printing at > > > http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm > > > > > >
Message
Re: New member intro & questions
2006-07-27 by chriskjezp
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