Digital BW, The Print

Chris,

>... if I go with the r220 I will need to get used to ... 
> a greyscale workflow and then toning the print using Paul's 
> curves or variable ink and slider adjustments.

Yes, for now that is the way most of us do it.  

> ... greyscale workflow, ...?

I suspect most of us have our own versions of these.

One important step in such a workflow is simply to get the monitor to match
the print.  We used to resort to custom dot gain curves or layers.  I think
the best way to do this now is by using a workflow that incorporated Roy
Harrington's "Create ICC" program.  I use this in the most recent approaches
I recommend, and it can also be used with the 2400 ABW mode printer.  This
basically inserts an ICC in the Print Preview section of the Photoshop
printing workflow.  My UT-R2 pdf at
http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/R220_R2_Readme.pdf outlines how this works
with that inkset.

> ... I'm not at all sure at what point in the 
> B&W conversion process (from my color RAW file) I should 
> convert from RGB to greyscale. 

There seems to be a lot of discussion of conversion procedures.  I use the
clone/rubber stamp tool a lot when I work up an image.  By avoiding any
cropping, it's very easy to align the clone tool between versions of the
same image and clone information from one to the other.  I do this with
respect to the color as well.  I take the color image and do a split
channels.  Then I pull the information from the different color channels
simply based on which channel looks the best.

I'm in the experimental stage of converting the raw images.  One thing I've
heard, however, is that the raw converters are getting better.  As such, one
would be well advised to keep the raw images around because the newer
programs may be able to do a better job in the future.  The approach of
cloning from one image to another will facilitate make use of the projected
raw conversion software improvements.

> ... with the K3 printers ... is it possible to get good prints 
> using an RGB workflow and applying any toning in RGB color 
> space ...

I'm sure many do this.  From a technical perspective, the 2400 uses more
color pigments than the minimum necessary for the desired tone.  The RGB
workflow is worse in this respect than the ABW mode.  The more color, the
less the longevity and the more the color artifacts.  So, it's a trade off,
and different people will opt of different solutions to the issue.  The nice
thing about the 220 approach is that its cheap enough to just dive in and
start learning by doing.

Enjoy,

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com