Hello Chris, >I've read over most of your webiste Paul, and also all of the >articles on Clayton's website. >I'm not at all sure at what point in the B&W conversion process >(from my color RAW file) I should convert from RGB to greyscale. I just recently revised article #9 (the 2400 workflow) http://www.cjcom.net/articles/digiprn9.htm and added more detail to the section on converting to BW. Basically the first thing is to apply whatever methods you want to remove the color while in RGB, and then change to grayscale mode. At this point the image is ready for any levels, curves and other typical work as a BW image. >Another question that may help me decide on a printer: with the K3 >printers (2400 in particular) is it recommended to also use a >greyscale workflow for B&W prints, or is it possible to get good >prints using an RGB workflow and applying any toning in RGB color >space... I think it's possible to get good prints that way, but they of course will have a different look and feel. The ABW mode uses primarily the three blacks with colors added only as toners, so the tones are limited to a warm/cool range. If you wanted, for example, a gold colored tone, or any other hue outside of the grayscale warm/cool range, then the RGB/color controls approach would be required. When making BW prints with ABW there is no advantage to keeping the image in RGB. All you have is images that are three times as large. When you switch to grayscale the image becomes 1/3 it's former size. >How about the 2200 in this regard (though it uses the UC inks >rather than K3 and is thus not as "archival")? Yes, exactly. The K3 is much better in that regard. The K3 printers are a big step forward in technology over the 2200 (and 1280, 220 and the rest) for several reasons: better longevity, less bronzing and gloss differential on glossy papers, three blacks for much better BW prints, and the driver has essentially what is a built in semi-RIP with it's ABW system. ABW uses primarily the three blacks, adding color inks as toners to create the warm/cool tone you specify with the controls. Using a 3rd party RIP with the 2400 (such as QTR) gives even greater control over the inks (for example, eliminating the Yellow from the toning mix). Regards, Clayton Info on black and white digital printing at http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
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Re: New member intro & questions
2006-07-27 by Clayton Jones
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