Like Tyler says there is no way to know how it will output with a particular printer driver combination. I well set up system should be close to what you view on a good monitor in greyscale mode. Mostly what you will probably run into will be slight density differences but you could end up with slight contrast variations as well. As we all know slight difference in black and white output can transate into big differences in visual impact. If it were me I would convert the file to Grey Gamma 2.2. View it on a good monitor for midtone brightness. Then check the numbers in Photoshop for your extremes with the eye dropper tool set at 3x3 average - make sure good shadow info within important areas doesn't drop below about 95 greyscale value in PS ( Remember 100 is pure black and 98 and 99 is still usually visible as something other than total black with a good inkset) and the brightest highlight values are not blown out at 0. I will almost put any large area of tonality at at least 1 or 2. At that point all you can do is have them do a test. As any good black and white printer will tell you there is so much that is subjective, even with a perfect file. Curves is where the creativity lies. That is why I always do proofs of everything if I can for a client before outputting final things. I would ask for that. Even a 5x7 proof of your file can tell you a lot. If you are in another town and are spending money on this Fed Ex the proofs first. John
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Re: Piezography soft proof...
2006-07-25 by john dean
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