Digital BW, The Print

I've been using the K slot in a 2200 for the glop simply because that 
is the only available position with the inks I'm currently using and 
the profiles do not require a black ink.  I am told that K is the first 
ink laid down and LK is the last with the 2200.  This means that with 
the profiles I've made (both with QTR and IJC) the glop is going down 
first with my inkset configuration.  Even though the glop is being 
applied first (at least I assume it is), the 4-10% glop I'm applying is 
more than adequate for 100% elimination of bronzing on Kirkland Glossy 
and Ilford Smooth Pearl.  There is some slight reduction in gloss on 
both of these papers but the appearance of the prints is quite nice - 
like an air dried silver glossy - with a soft gloss finish.  
Application by overcoating previously made prints using a black only 
glop application method with the Epson driver lays down a lot more glop 
and produces a higher gloss finish.  I've also found that it takes much 
less glop to eliminate bronzing with MIS UT class inks than with the 
Epson UC inks.  I'm going to re-configure my 2200 for a modification of 
the UT7 inks that incorporates glop in the LK slot so I'll be able to 
compare how a different ink position affects the glop application.

Carl

On Jan 17, 2005, at 11:14 AM, Paul Roark wrote:

>
> David,
>
>>> ...(You don't want a position that is not used.)...
>
>> Did you say this because having an unused position
>> will lead to ink settling/clogging?
>
> I think there is a risk of this.  There have been a couple of comments 
> here
> that the Y position of the UT2-1280 printer is clogged.
>
> Note that if you print with the sliders, that position is used.
>
>> Makes me worry about the sepia position (unused in
>> practice) in my 2200/UT setup. Maybe it's not
>> an issue with the 2200...?
>
> I think it is less of a risk with the 2200.  From what I can tell one 
> of the
> main differences between printers designed for pigments as opposed by 
> dyes
> is that the pigment printers do more routine cleaning cycles.  This 
> might be
> enough.
>
> Still, if you don't use sepia, I've been recommending people put a 
> second
> warm (carbon) light gray there -- the UT7 LC (or UT2 LM).  The main
> noticeable change is that the prints with the sliders will be a bit 
> more
> neutral.  They will also be more lightfast.  The less color pigments 
> in the
> mix the better.
>
> Now I'd be looking at Glop in the Y spot if you do glossy printing.  I 
> have
> not tested the 2200 with this ink arrangement, but it seems capable of
> eliminating about 90% of the bronzing in the 1280 with appropriate 
> curves.
>
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
>
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