Digital BW, The Print

Thank you Paul,
I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then going to try to
mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared my first
prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I think they are 
sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great. 
Marcus
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Paul Roark <roark.paul@...> wrote:
>
> Marcus ... <luxlebis@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> >
> There is not one size fits all.  A very flexible inkset like the UT3D or
> the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print tones/hues
> you like best.  Most then focus on one thing.  Once you determine your
> preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that particular
> print type makes sense.
> 
> ...
> > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I think,I´m from
> > Germany). I get very good results.
> >
> ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ...  I think I can
> > nearly get a r1430 ...
> >
> Those files are amazing.  Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> 
> 
> > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6 different
> > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> >
> Yes.  In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting factors, not the
> inks.  The Eboni-6 has the  longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100% carbon.
> 
> In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on metallic paper
> set the benchmark, in my view.  But they are not in the same archival
> league as 100% carbon.
> 
> 
> > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I got
> > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> >
> I don't know but will try to find out.
> 
> 
> > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between matte and
> > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB paper. But
> > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> >
> When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and matte tend
> to be minimal.  When hand held and not glazed, most probably think the
> glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range.  This is largely
> about display conditions and reflections.  So, the target display setting
> matters.
> 
> As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can see if you
> like the inkset before investing too much money into it.  The 1400/1430 is
> a very flexible platform.
> 
> 
> > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems to get all
> > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in Germany/Europe
> > and can give me advice?
> >
> There are some there.  My recollection is that some have used Photo Flo 600
> instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas).  I think
> most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York.  It comes in
> a 4 oz. size.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
> 
> 
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>