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Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-25 by luxlebis

Hello,
I�m in the process of researching the web, which would be the best route for meto go with an Epson r1430 converted to a black and white only printer. Some years ago I got very kind help here when I started b&w inkjet-printing. There are very very kind and competent people here.
I�m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I think,I�m from Germany). I get very good results. Now that I finally quit my darkroom totally cause since I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography 6x7  has no real advantage anymore. The only reason for me to keep the darkroom over the last years was the look of not so much enlarged medium format negatives, that I loved. It was a look I�ve never seen in smaller (A4) digital prints. I always thought it was thelimited resolution of the print and not the filmcapturing. Since I worked with teh absolutely amazing sigma files in the last few weeks, which look amazing in A4 i doubt it is the printer. So I will finally close the doors of my dakroom now. I think I can nearly get a r1430 (A3  is all that I need) with just selling my enlarginglenses. I read online about K7 vs. Eboni6. Has eboni6 really the 6 different dillution avantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)? 
In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I got my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ? With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch betwenn matte and glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB paper. But for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set. I read about Paul�s way to mix a matte set, but have problems to get all the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in Germany/Europe and can give me advice?
OK! to keep it short: Is there an advantage (resolution wise) from (more expensive) cone K7 matte sets (or maybe the MPS set for glossy+matte) over UT3d or eboni6? 

Marcus

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-25 by Paul Roark

Marcus ... <luxlebis@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
>
There is not one size fits all.  A very flexible inkset like the UT3D or
the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print tones/hues
you like best.  Most then focus on one thing.  Once you determine your
preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that particular
print type makes sense.

...
> I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I think,I´m from
> Germany). I get very good results.
>
... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ...  I think I can
> nearly get a r1430 ...
>
Those files are amazing.  Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.


> I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6 different
> dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
>
Yes.  In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting factors, not the
inks.  The Eboni-6 has the  longevity advantage over all but the Cone
Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100% carbon.

In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on metallic paper
set the benchmark, in my view.  But they are not in the same archival
league as 100% carbon.


> In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I got
> my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
>
I don't know but will try to find out.


> With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between matte and
> glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB paper. But
> for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
>
When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and matte tend
to be minimal.  When hand held and not glazed, most probably think the
glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range.  This is largely
about display conditions and reflections.  So, the target display setting
matters.

As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can see if you
like the inkset before investing too much money into it.  The 1400/1430 is
a very flexible platform.


> I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems to get all
> the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in Germany/Europe
> and can give me advice?
>
There are some there.  My recollection is that some have used Photo Flo 600
instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas).  I think
most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York.  It comes in
a 4 oz. size.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-25 by Paul Roark

<luxlebis@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> ...
> In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I got
> my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ? ...
>
>
> I'm told  farbenwerk.com  used to purchase UT3D from MIS and were looking
at EB6 a few months ago.  At this time, however, they do not offer the EB6
inks that are made by MIS.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by luxlebis

Thank you Paul,
I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then going to try to
mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared my first
prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I think they are 
sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great. 
Marcus
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Paul Roark <roark.paul@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Marcus ... <luxlebis@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> >
> There is not one size fits all.  A very flexible inkset like the UT3D or
> the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print tones/hues
> you like best.  Most then focus on one thing.  Once you determine your
> preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that particular
> print type makes sense.
> 
> ...
> > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I think,I´m from
> > Germany). I get very good results.
> >
> ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ...  I think I can
> > nearly get a r1430 ...
> >
> Those files are amazing.  Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> 
> 
> > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6 different
> > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> >
> Yes.  In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting factors, not the
> inks.  The Eboni-6 has the  longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100% carbon.
> 
> In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on metallic paper
> set the benchmark, in my view.  But they are not in the same archival
> league as 100% carbon.
> 
> 
> > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I got
> > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> >
> I don't know but will try to find out.
> 
> 
> > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between matte and
> > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB paper. But
> > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> >
> When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and matte tend
> to be minimal.  When hand held and not glazed, most probably think the
> glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range.  This is largely
> about display conditions and reflections.  So, the target display setting
> matters.
> 
> As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can see if you
> like the inkset before investing too much money into it.  The 1400/1430 is
> a very flexible platform.
> 
> 
> > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems to get all
> > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in Germany/Europe
> > and can give me advice?
> >
> There are some there.  My recollection is that some have used Photo Flo 600
> instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas).  I think
> most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York.  It comes in
> a 4 oz. size.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by luxlebis

Interessting http://shop.farbenwerk.com/schwarzweiss-tinten/carbonprint-museum
If not EB6 than maybe this is a carbon 6 set mixed by them. I sent an email to ask, what it is.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Paul Roark <roark.paul@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> <luxlebis@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > ...
> > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I got
> > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ? ...
> >
> >
> > I'm told  farbenwerk.com  used to purchase UT3D from MIS and were looking
> at EB6 a few months ago.  At this time, however, they do not offer the EB6
> inks that are made by MIS.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by J.F. Felinik

Hi,

If you need inexpensive carts for the 1400, I've bought a cpl of packages
of these (to have swaps ready). It's the same as you buy from MIS, but in
EU and still a good price:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Refillable-Empty-Cartridges-for-Epson-Stylus-Photo-1400-Stylus-P50-E7-/321145551632?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_Printing_PrinterInkCatridges_JN&hash=item4ac5c43b10



Cheers
/JF



--
http://felinik.com
http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik <https://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik>


2013/7/26 luxlebis <luxlebis@...>

> **
>
>
> Thank you Paul,
> I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
> Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then going to
> try to
> mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared my first
> prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I think
> they are
> sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great.
> Marcus
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Paul Roark
> <roark.paul@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > Marcus ... <luxlebis@...> wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> > >
> > There is not one size fits all. A very flexible inkset like the UT3D or
> > the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print tones/hues
> > you like best. Most then focus on one thing. Once you determine your
> > preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that particular
> > print type makes sense.
> >
> > ...
> > > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I think,I´m
> from
>
> > > Germany). I get very good results.
> > >
> > ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ... I think I can
> > > nearly get a r1430 ...
> > >
> > Those files are amazing. Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> >
> >
> > > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6 different
> > > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> > >
> > Yes. In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting factors, not
> the
> > inks. The Eboni-6 has the longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> > Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100%
> carbon.
> >
> > In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on metallic paper
> > set the benchmark, in my view. But they are not in the same archival
> > league as 100% carbon.
> >
> >
> > > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I
> got
> > > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> > >
> > I don't know but will try to find out.
> >
> >
> > > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between matte and
> > > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB paper.
> But
> > > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> > >
> > When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and matte
> tend
> > to be minimal. When hand held and not glazed, most probably think the
> > glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range. This is largely
> > about display conditions and reflections. So, the target display setting
> > matters.
> >
> > As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can see if
> you
> > like the inkset before investing too much money into it. The 1400/1430 is
> > a very flexible platform.
> >
> >
> > > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems to get
> all
>
> > > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in
> Germany/Europe
> > > and can give me advice?
> > >
> > There are some there. My recollection is that some have used Photo Flo
> 600
> > instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> > http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas). I think
> > most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York. It comes in
> > a 4 oz. size.
> >
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by luxlebis

Oh, thank you that looks interesting


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "J.F. Felinik" <jf@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi,
> 
> If you need inexpensive carts for the 1400, I've bought a cpl of packages
> of these (to have swaps ready). It's the same as you buy from MIS, but in
> EU and still a good price:
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Refillable-Empty-Cartridges-for-Epson-Stylus-Photo-1400-Stylus-P50-E7-/321145551632?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_Printing_PrinterInkCatridges_JN&hash=item4ac5c43b10
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> /JF
> 
> 
> 
> --
> http://felinik.com
> http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik <https://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik>
> 
> 
> 2013/7/26 luxlebis <luxlebis@...>
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > Thank you Paul,
> > I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
> > Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then going to
> > try to
> > mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared my first
> > prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I think
> > they are
> > sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great.
> > Marcus
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Paul Roark
> > <roark.paul@> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Marcus ... <luxlebis@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > **
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > > > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> > > >
> > > There is not one size fits all. A very flexible inkset like the UT3D or
> > > the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print tones/hues
> > > you like best. Most then focus on one thing. Once you determine your
> > > preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that particular
> > > print type makes sense.
> > >
> > > ...
> > > > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I think,I´m
> > from
> >
> > > > Germany). I get very good results.
> > > >
> > > ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ... I think I can
> > > > nearly get a r1430 ...
> > > >
> > > Those files are amazing. Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> > >
> > >
> > > > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6 different
> > > > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> > > >
> > > Yes. In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting factors, not
> > the
> > > inks. The Eboni-6 has the longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> > > Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100%
> > carbon.
> > >
> > > In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on metallic paper
> > > set the benchmark, in my view. But they are not in the same archival
> > > league as 100% carbon.
> > >
> > >
> > > > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from where I
> > got
> > > > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > > > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> > > >
> > > I don't know but will try to find out.
> > >
> > >
> > > > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between matte and
> > > > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB paper.
> > But
> > > > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> > > >
> > > When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and matte
> > tend
> > > to be minimal. When hand held and not glazed, most probably think the
> > > glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range. This is largely
> > > about display conditions and reflections. So, the target display setting
> > > matters.
> > >
> > > As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can see if
> > you
> > > like the inkset before investing too much money into it. The 1400/1430 is
> > > a very flexible platform.
> > >
> > >
> > > > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems to get
> > all
> >
> > > > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in
> > Germany/Europe
> > > > and can give me advice?
> > > >
> > > There are some there. My recollection is that some have used Photo Flo
> > 600
> > > instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> > > http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas). I think
> > > most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York. It comes in
> > > a 4 oz. size.
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > www.PaulRoark.com
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by Ben Albu

Hi Marcus,

I had a similar question a while ago.
I live in Belgium and thought about importing US inks, but it's always
that easy and quite expensive to (nowadays I pay 40-50% customs tax if I
buy something in the US!).

Paul R. and Ernst D. gave me good advice on how to setup an 'open
source' ink system.

Ernst adviced met to use a setup similar to this one:
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/HP-C6.pdf
In particular HP Vivera PK diluted with this -German- base:
http://www.octopus-office.de/shop/details/c/tinte-nachfuelltinte-epson-t0540-t0549/p/ocp-optimizer-fuer-canon-bc-60-farblos/

Paul had some fear that this OCP optimiser would clog, but Ernst
recently said that he had no problems with it at all.

The MK position is filled in with HP Vivera Matte black.

You can use this setup for printing on glossy/matte papers.

The tone is cool to neutral.

If you want a warmer tone, then there seems to be no solution with this
setup.

So, in that perspective I am also still searching how to solve that
'problem'.

Maybe we shoud import some basic stuff (PK, MK and the base) from this
list(?): Roark's Lab - Experimental B&W:
http://www.inksupply.com/roarkslab.cfm
and mix up the dilutions ourself, like I did before with the PK/MK
Vivera setup.

Cheers

Ben 

 


On 26/07/2013 14:17, luxlebis wrote:
>  
>
> Oh, thank you that looks interesting
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>, "J.F.
> Felinik" <jf@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > If you need inexpensive carts for the 1400, I've bought a cpl of
> packages
> > of these (to have swaps ready). It's the same as you buy from MIS,
> but in
> > EU and still a good price:
> >
> >
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Refillable-Empty-Cartridges-for-Epson-Stylus-Photo-1400-Stylus-P50-E7-/321145551632?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_Printing_PrinterInkCatridges_JN&hash=item4ac5c43b10
> >
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> > /JF
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > http://felinik.com
> > http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik <https://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik>
> >
> >
> > 2013/7/26 luxlebis <luxlebis@...>
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > Thank you Paul,
> > > I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
> > > Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then
> going to
> > > try to
> > > mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared
> my first
> > > prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I
> think
> > > they are
> > > sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great.
> > > Marcus
> > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>, Paul Roark
> > > <roark.paul@> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Marcus ... <luxlebis@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > **
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > > > > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> > > > >
> > > > There is not one size fits all. A very flexible inkset like the
> UT3D or
> > > > the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print
> tones/hues
> > > > you like best. Most then focus on one thing. Once you determine your
> > > > preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that
> particular
> > > > print type makes sense.
> > > >
> > > > ...
> > > > > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I
> think,I´m
> > > from
> > >
> > > > > Germany). I get very good results.
> > > > >
> > > > ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ... I
> think I can
> > > > > nearly get a r1430 ...
> > > > >
> > > > Those files are amazing. Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6
> different
> > > > > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> > > > >
> > > > Yes. In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting
> factors, not
> > > the
> > > > inks. The Eboni-6 has the longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> > > > Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100%
> > > carbon.
> > > >
> > > > In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on
> metallic paper
> > > > set the benchmark, in my view. But they are not in the same archival
> > > > league as 100% carbon.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from
> where I
> > > got
> > > > > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > > > > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> > > > >
> > > > I don't know but will try to find out.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between
> matte and
> > > > > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB
> paper.
> > > But
> > > > > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> > > > >
> > > > When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and
> matte
> > > tend
> > > > to be minimal. When hand held and not glazed, most probably
> think the
> > > > glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range. This is
> largely
> > > > about display conditions and reflections. So, the target display
> setting
> > > > matters.
> > > >
> > > > As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can
> see if
> > > you
> > > > like the inkset before investing too much money into it. The
> 1400/1430 is
> > > > a very flexible platform.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems
> to get
> > > all
> > >
> > > > > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in
> > > Germany/Europe
> > > > > and can give me advice?
> > > > >
> > > > There are some there. My recollection is that some have used
> Photo Flo
> > > 600
> > > > instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> > > > http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas). I
> think
> > > > most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York. It
> comes in
> > > > a 4 oz. size.
> > > >
> > > > Paul
> > > > www.PaulRoark.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by luxlebis

Hi Ben,
very interesting, maybe the mk from farbenwerk.com can solve that problem. I think importing from Germany is no problem.

Marcus

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Ben Albu <ben@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi Marcus,
> 
> I had a similar question a while ago.
> I live in Belgium and thought about importing US inks, but it's always
> that easy and quite expensive to (nowadays I pay 40-50% customs tax if I
> buy something in the US!).
> 
> Paul R. and Ernst D. gave me good advice on how to setup an 'open
> source' ink system.
> 
> Ernst adviced met to use a setup similar to this one:
> http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/HP-C6.pdf
> In particular HP Vivera PK diluted with this -German- base:
> http://www.octopus-office.de/shop/details/c/tinte-nachfuelltinte-epson-t0540-t0549/p/ocp-optimizer-fuer-canon-bc-60-farblos/
> 
> Paul had some fear that this OCP optimiser would clog, but Ernst
> recently said that he had no problems with it at all.
> 
> The MK position is filled in with HP Vivera Matte black.
> 
> You can use this setup for printing on glossy/matte papers.
> 
> The tone is cool to neutral.
> 
> If you want a warmer tone, then there seems to be no solution with this
> setup.
> 
> So, in that perspective I am also still searching how to solve that
> 'problem'.
> 
> Maybe we shoud import some basic stuff (PK, MK and the base) from this
> list(?): Roark's Lab - Experimental B&W:
> http://www.inksupply.com/roarkslab.cfm
> and mix up the dilutions ourself, like I did before with the PK/MK
> Vivera setup.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ben 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> On 26/07/2013 14:17, luxlebis wrote:
> >  
> >
> > Oh, thank you that looks interesting
> >
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@...m
> > <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>, "J.F.
> > Felinik" <jf@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > If you need inexpensive carts for the 1400, I've bought a cpl of
> > packages
> > > of these (to have swaps ready). It's the same as you buy from MIS,
> > but in
> > > EU and still a good price:
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Refillable-Empty-Cartridges-for-Epson-Stylus-Photo-1400-Stylus-P50-E7-/321145551632?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_Printing_PrinterInkCatridges_JN&hash=item4ac5c43b10
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > /JF
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > http://felinik.com
> > > http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik <https://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik>
> > >
> > >
> > > 2013/7/26 luxlebis <luxlebis@>
> > >
> > > > **
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thank you Paul,
> > > > I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
> > > > Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then
> > going to
> > > > try to
> > > > mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared
> > my first
> > > > prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I
> > think
> > > > they are
> > > > sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great.
> > > > Marcus
> > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>, Paul Roark
> > > > <roark.paul@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Marcus ... <luxlebis@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > **
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > > > > > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > There is not one size fits all. A very flexible inkset like the
> > UT3D or
> > > > > the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print
> > tones/hues
> > > > > you like best. Most then focus on one thing. Once you determine your
> > > > > preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that
> > particular
> > > > > print type makes sense.
> > > > >
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I
> > think,I´m
> > > > from
> > > >
> > > > > > Germany). I get very good results.
> > > > > >
> > > > > ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ... I
> > think I can
> > > > > > nearly get a r1430 ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > Those files are amazing. Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6
> > different
> > > > > > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> > > > > >
> > > > > Yes. In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting
> > factors, not
> > > > the
> > > > > inks. The Eboni-6 has the longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> > > > > Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100%
> > > > carbon.
> > > > >
> > > > > In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on
> > metallic paper
> > > > > set the benchmark, in my view. But they are not in the same archival
> > > > > league as 100% carbon.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from
> > where I
> > > > got
> > > > > > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > > > > > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > I don't know but will try to find out.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between
> > matte and
> > > > > > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB
> > paper.
> > > > But
> > > > > > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> > > > > >
> > > > > When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and
> > matte
> > > > tend
> > > > > to be minimal. When hand held and not glazed, most probably
> > think the
> > > > > glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range. This is
> > largely
> > > > > about display conditions and reflections. So, the target display
> > setting
> > > > > matters.
> > > > >
> > > > > As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can
> > see if
> > > > you
> > > > > like the inkset before investing too much money into it. The
> > 1400/1430 is
> > > > > a very flexible platform.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems
> > to get
> > > > all
> > > >
> > > > > > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in
> > > > Germany/Europe
> > > > > > and can give me advice?
> > > > > >
> > > > > There are some there. My recollection is that some have used
> > Photo Flo
> > > > 600
> > > > > instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> > > > > http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas). I
> > think
> > > > > most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York. It
> > comes in
> > > > > a 4 oz. size.
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul
> > > > > www.PaulRoark.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Re: [Digital BW] Eboni6, UT3d, Cone, or which route to take?

2013-07-26 by luxlebis

with the MK from Farbenwerk and this: http://www.octopus-office.de/shop/details/c/tinte-nachfuelltinte-epson-t0540-t0549/p/ocp-optimizer-fuer-canon-bc-60-farblos/
I can mix EB6 if I get it right. Could that work?


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Ben Albu <ben@...> wrote:
Show quoted textHide quoted text
>
> Hi Marcus,
> 
> I had a similar question a while ago.
> I live in Belgium and thought about importing US inks, but it's always
> that easy and quite expensive to (nowadays I pay 40-50% customs tax if I
> buy something in the US!).
> 
> Paul R. and Ernst D. gave me good advice on how to setup an 'open
> source' ink system.
> 
> Ernst adviced met to use a setup similar to this one:
> http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/HP-C6.pdf
> In particular HP Vivera PK diluted with this -German- base:
> http://www.octopus-office.de/shop/details/c/tinte-nachfuelltinte-epson-t0540-t0549/p/ocp-optimizer-fuer-canon-bc-60-farblos/
> 
> Paul had some fear that this OCP optimiser would clog, but Ernst
> recently said that he had no problems with it at all.
> 
> The MK position is filled in with HP Vivera Matte black.
> 
> You can use this setup for printing on glossy/matte papers.
> 
> The tone is cool to neutral.
> 
> If you want a warmer tone, then there seems to be no solution with this
> setup.
> 
> So, in that perspective I am also still searching how to solve that
> 'problem'.
> 
> Maybe we shoud import some basic stuff (PK, MK and the base) from this
> list(?): Roark's Lab - Experimental B&W:
> http://www.inksupply.com/roarkslab.cfm
> and mix up the dilutions ourself, like I did before with the PK/MK
> Vivera setup.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Ben 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> On 26/07/2013 14:17, luxlebis wrote:
> >  
> >
> > Oh, thank you that looks interesting
> >
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>, "J.F.
> > Felinik" <jf@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > If you need inexpensive carts for the 1400, I've bought a cpl of
> > packages
> > > of these (to have swaps ready). It's the same as you buy from MIS,
> > but in
> > > EU and still a good price:
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Refillable-Empty-Cartridges-for-Epson-Stylus-Photo-1400-Stylus-P50-E7-/321145551632?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_Printing_PrinterInkCatridges_JN&hash=item4ac5c43b10
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > /JF
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > http://felinik.com
> > > http://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik <https://www.facebook.com/jf.felinik>
> > >
> > >
> > > 2013/7/26 luxlebis <luxlebis@>
> > >
> > > > **
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thank you Paul,
> > > > I will first get the Printer and the empty cards from farbenwerk.com.
> > > > Ithink I start with UT 3d first cause I have it here. I'm then
> > going to
> > > > try to
> > > > mix my own Carbon 6. This looks economical. Yesterday I compared
> > my first
> > > > prints from the sigma with darkroom prints from a 6x7 APX 25 and I
> > think
> > > > they are
> > > > sharper and have nearly the same detail. Looks great.
> > > > Marcus
> > > > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint%40yahoogroups.com>, Paul Roark
> > > > <roark.paul@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Marcus ... <luxlebis@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > **
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ... which would be the best route for me to go with an Epson r1430
> > > > > > converted to a black and white only printer. [?] ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > There is not one size fits all. A very flexible inkset like the
> > UT3D or
> > > > > the UT14 can help identify what types of papers and what print
> > tones/hues
> > > > > you like best. Most then focus on one thing. Once you determine your
> > > > > preferences, then having a system that focuses more on that
> > particular
> > > > > print type makes sense.
> > > > >
> > > > > ...
> > > > > > I´m already using the UT3d inkset in an r285 (r290 in US I
> > think,I´m
> > > > from
> > > >
> > > > > > Germany). I get very good results.
> > > > > >
> > > > > ... I use the Sigma dp2 merrill for my b&w photography ... I
> > think I can
> > > > > > nearly get a r1430 ...
> > > > > >
> > > > > Those files are amazing. Going to a very sharp 1430 is a good idea.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > I read online about K7 vs. Eboni 6. Has eboni 6 really the 6
> > different
> > > > > > dilution advantage like the cone inks (concerning resolution)?
> > > > > >
> > > > > Yes. In both cases the printer and paper are the limiting
> > factors, not
> > > > the
> > > > > inks. The Eboni-6 has the longevity advantage over all but the Cone
> > > > > Carbon Sepia, which is essentially equal to Eboni due to being 100%
> > > > carbon.
> > > > >
> > > > > In terms of apparent sharpness and dynamic range, dyes on
> > metallic paper
> > > > > set the benchmark, in my view. But they are not in the same archival
> > > > > league as 100% carbon.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > In Germany there is an inksupplier called farbenwerk.com from
> > where I
> > > > got
> > > > > > my UT3d set some years ago. They sell a 100% carbon matte set to
> > > > > > (carbonprint museum), does anybody know if that is eboni6 ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > I don't know but will try to find out.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > With the UT3d inkset I have the opportunity to switch between
> > matte and
> > > > > > glossy printing. I get very good prints on the Ilford mono FB
> > paper.
> > > > But
> > > > > > for the 1430 I think I will go for a matte set.
> > > > > >
> > > > > When displayed behind glass, the differences between glossy and
> > matte
> > > > tend
> > > > > to be minimal. When hand held and not glazed, most probably
> > think the
> > > > > glossy prints are sharper and have higher dynamic range. This is
> > largely
> > > > > about display conditions and reflections. So, the target display
> > setting
> > > > > matters.
> > > > >
> > > > > As a practical matter, if you buy a set of carts first, you can
> > see if
> > > > you
> > > > > like the inkset before investing too much money into it. The
> > 1400/1430 is
> > > > > a very flexible platform.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > I read about Paul´s way to mix a matte set, but have problems
> > to get
> > > > all
> > > >
> > > > > > the ingredients here in Germany. Has anybody done that in
> > > > Germany/Europe
> > > > > > and can give me advice?
> > > > > >
> > > > > There are some there. My recollection is that some have used
> > Photo Flo
> > > > 600
> > > > > instead of 200, and it works in the generic base (see
> > > > > http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf for formulas). I
> > think
> > > > > most have still purchased the Edwal LFN from B&H in New York. It
> > comes in
> > > > > a 4 oz. size.
> > > > >
> > > > > Paul
> > > > > www.PaulRoark.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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