Digital BW, The Print

David,



>   OK, so at least for now, it would appear that my only practical/viable
> option for warm(est) tones on watercolor paper are MK for the K slot and
> various dilutions of PK (using ONLY MIS's Amber base for dilution) for all
> the other slots.
>
> The remaining question then is, with what dilutions should I start?
>

See page 2 of http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/4000-6K-Plus.pdf for what I
did.

With the 3800, you have both MK and PK positions.  I recommend you use
those for Eboni and K4 PK.  That way you can try the PK on matte, or, more
importantly, on new baryta papers as they are offered.  You might just like
what you see.  Even if Arches is your sole target, you may want to make
postcards, posters, and the like that would use "glossy" paper.

If you want a very flexible printer, I'd also have Epson Y, LC, and LM
installed.  You will then be able to go warmer or make a neutral print if
you like.  I see below that you want M and not LC in there.  I can't say
how warm the LM will let you go, but I'd guess it'll be enough.  These are
high gamut colors, and even a very warm B&W is rather low gamut.   It also
just might be the case that you'd want to make a neutral print some day for
some reason.  If you have the LC in there, you can.  But, I can't say for
sure what is going to be best for you.

That leaves 4 more positions for carbon. I used the 4 MIS pre-mixed carbons
that are shown on the PDF, from UT7-C down to K4-LLK.  As you mention
below, the LK and LLK are rather standard.

If you want to go lighter than an LLK, an LLLK can be mixed.  I'd do a 30%
LLK to 70% amber base (or just do a 1:2 for simplicity).

You can profile the LLLK in the usual QTR serial partitioning system.

You might also consider the UT7-LC (about 15% PK) and then use it as a
toner in a separate channel.  This makes for more overlaps.  What I like to
do is initially call it a toner and let QTR profile it as such.  However,
then make it into a manual curve that you can use to adjust the
pre-linearized QTR profile to take care of any areas that are not smooth.





>  I am going to use the LK, LLK, M, LM and Y slots,
>

As noted above, I doubt you need the M if you have LM, but I don't know
just how brown you need to go either.




>  leaving the C and LC slots
>

You never want to make a neutral print?


>  what PK dilutions would you suggest I start with?
>

See above.




>
> Also, you talk about percentage solutions and I should make sure I'm on the
> same page as you.
> To me, when you say to use a 10% solution, I think you mean that I should
> put 10ml of PK stock into 90ml of Amber base (shaken, not stirred?). Is
> that
> correct?
>

Yes, stirred.  Foam is a problem and shaking is a mess.  You probably have
you darkroom stirring rod handy.

I don't know of any magic mix here.  There is an advantage to using
standard inks as well as the pre-mixed were available, assuming there is
not major savings.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


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