ComputerVoltageSources

Larry may have heard that kind of feedback, but I haven't since the
very early days. For almost all applications, the stooge brackets we
came up with are sufficient to avoid screws.

My noise ring has a screw mounting the LED strip, and the two standoff
screws holding the rs connector / board.

Don't worry about it - if certain people are adamant that they don't
want screws, we'll try to work with them to figure out another way.

Moe
http://www.stoogeindustries.com

--- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, "Grant Richter"
<grichter@...> wrote:
>
> OK, I'll bite.
> 
> I was told by Larry Hendry (RIP) that people would NOT buy a MOTM
module if there were 
> screws that went through the faceplate. Even though the mounting
screws go through the 
> faceplate.
> 
> That is why there are only 10 MOTMized Noise Rings.
> 
> How do I attach a joystick to a MOTM faceplate without screws going
through the 
> faceplate? I don't trust glue and positioning would be a bitch, even
if glue were strong 
> enough.
> 
> There is no way I can afford to have screw stubs spot welded to the
back. That would be 
> like 100 times the price of 4 simple screws.
> 
> --- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Marsh"
<michaelmarsh@> 
> wrote:
> >
> > [OT] Small rant of my own:
> > 
> > I don't recall seeing ANY screwholes on any MOTM module, and I have a
> > few. My Wiard Joystick on the other hand...I may have misread this
> > post, and if I have I apologize.  It is entirely possible to put Wiard
> > modules behind an MOTM faceplate without screwholes, so the reason we
> > don't see Wiard modules in MOTM format must be something else.
> > 
> > Mike
> > 
> > --- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, "Grant Richter"
> > <grichter@> wrote:
> > >
> > > First, no offense to Chris for an excellent question.
> > > 
> > > Don't talk to me about "no screw holes in the faceplate" that is why
> > you don't see Wiard 
> > > modules in MOTM format. That idea is insulting to any designer.
> > > 
> > > Spend your time thinking about MUSIC, forget the g*dd*mn screwholes,
> > get some therapy 
> > > for your out of control OCD behavior, how many times do you wash
> > your hands a 
> > > day?????????????????? (loud hissing of steam escaping from ears).
> > > 
> > > I apologize for the rant, silly limitations really annoy me.
> > > 
> > > There is no advantage to ANY panel mounted components being in hard
> > copper on the PC 
> > > board.
> > > 
> > > What if someone wants to use it for controlling dimmer packs for a
> > hobby theater?
> > > Then the board would be bench top mounted horizontally and the pots
> > would be slide 
> > > pots. It could support both 0-10 volt packs and the MIDI controlled
> > ones.
> > > 
> > > What about using it to control servo laser scanners for a laserium
> > light show? (those are 
> > > voltage outputs to current drivers)
> > > 
> > > What if all the pots are force sensing resistors built into a
> > dancers suit?
> > > 
> > > What about if it is used for squib control to light the "Burning
> > Man" on fire when 
> > > Interstellar Overdrive reaches the climax?
> > > 
> > > OK, those are meant to be humorous examples, but also practical
> > applications.
> > > 
> > > I don't see an anvantage favoring any mounting position or
> > potentiometer type, spacing or 
> > > placement. I would just use the Wiard pigtail pot assembly method.
> > That is each pot, 
> > > switch or whatever has a dedicated 0.100 KK connector. You can
> > always solder directly to 
> > > the PC pads and skip the connectors.
> > > 
> > > I would use the extra space for as much perf board area as possible
> > for hanging more 
> > > experimenters chips, sensors, high current servo drivers etc.
> > > 
> > > We will have holes in the right spots for that MOTM metal bracket
> > thingy. Can sombody 
> > > tell me what that spacing and hole size is?
> > > 
> > > A 4 x 6 board will fit in a Frac-Rac. Is 6-7 inches too deep for
> > MOTM and Doepfer racks?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In ComputerVoltageSources@yahoogroups.com, xamboldt <xamboldt@>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Or... if pots aren't PCB-mounted, what panel components should
be?  
> > > > MIDI Jacks? DIN? LEDs? We've already heard that DIN might not be  
> > > > something everyone would want...
> > > > 
> > > > Would there be room for 4 pots and MIDI I/O?
> > > > 
> > > > -Chris
> > > > 
> > > > On Mar 10, 2006, at 3:10 PM, xamboldt wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > > Can of worms warning!
> > > > >
> > > > > Should the PCB be laid out so as to allow PCB-mounted pots for
> > > > > perhaps 4 or 6 of the controls? Different front panel
formats could
> > > > > be allowed for by simply doing point-to-point wiring instead
of PCB
> > > > > mounting the pots. The difficulty comes in deciding which format
> > > > > would be used to dictate the spacing of holes for the
PCB-mounted
> > > > > pots. Both Blacet and MOTM have standards we could
appropriate for
> > > > > PCB-mounted pots. The CVS' pots (as spelled out by Grant) are
> > grouped
> > > > > in functional units of 4, and that is the typical max vertical
> > > > > allowance of pots on an MOTM panel. Blacet has up to 6
maximum, but
> > > > > plenty of designs have fewer pots.
> > > > >
> > > > > I guess someone had to bring it up....  :)
> > > > >
> > > > > -Chris
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I think we can use the Metalbox style 1900H knobs and
Alpha pots
> > > > > > for Frac-Rac.
> > > > > > The jack spacing should accept either Switchcraft (Blacet) or
> > > > > > 16PJ135 (Wiard) jacks.
> > > > > > The 16PJ135 jacks wire up very neatly because of the
ground tangs
> > > > > > being in-line.
> > > > > > The knurled nuts are designed to be assembled with
fingernails, so
> > > > > > that is one less tool
> > > > > > you need.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>