Cap 88 was not installed in my Poly 800 M1. Never was there in the first place.
R32 on the MAIN board is a 47K Ohm resister.. on the CHORUS board, R32 is 10K Ohm I believe.
Look over the schematics again.. the values are there for the most part when I viewed it. Granted, there is the schematic pics (very hard to read) and the board pics.. you want to look at the schematic pics and be sure you are looking at the correct board because they reuse component numbers over again from one board to the next and be completely different values.
Those caps across the headphone/Line Out jacks could be some kind of freq. filters? Maybe someone wanted to notch out certain frequencies or get rid of hiss? You did say it makes alot of hiss/noise, right?
Hard telling what they did and why.. and Mike's guess is better than mine since he's the electronics expert here. I'm in a very early stage in how electronics work.
It's going to be a long painful process for you to go thru your synth to find out what's been altered/missing. But I'm sure we can help via pics of yours and what ours has.
Right now I have mine opened up.. so it's easy for me to spot components and their values.
HTH's
-Blaine
--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "mcdonaldtavish" <tavishmcronald@...> wrote:
>
> Okay something weird was happening but now I can access the member only area again. Here are the pictures. What do you think those two caps are for? Also, although the dc jack works, I should still solder in Q1 right? Is the dc jack okay where it is or will with potentially damage the keyboard?
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/photos/album/1019666648/pic/678969748/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/photos/album/1019666648/pic/678969748/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc
>
> I think I will start by replacing Q1 and replacing the battery.
>
> One thing that is bugging me about the service manual is that it gives the parts list but doesn't tell you c88 is 1 uf electrolytic r32 is 10k etc. If the butcher switched a resistor took out a cap, how am I supposed to get the right part back in? do I have to make a check list of what is already on the board? I suppose that is the only option. Anyways, thanks for all your help guys.
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Tavish McDonald <tavishmcronald@> wrote:
> >
> > Good guess, from what I can tell it turns out they did do exactly that. I
> > turned the board over and found a some wires connecting the jack to where
> > the battery current goes in. Also two capacitors going across the
> > output/headphone jacks, maybe if I cut these the headphone jack will work
> > again. I would post pictures of what I found but I'm having trouble getting
> > into the members only area now?
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 18, 2012 at 10:14 AM, bimmerfan222 <bperkins211@>wrote:
> >
> > > ∗∗
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hard to tell from the pics, but I wonder if the prev. owner/butcher
> > > managed to somehow re-route the external power connection direct to the
> > > battery terminals and that's why it powers up when you plug a wallwart into
> > > the 9v DC input jack.
> > >
> > > I think the LED they put in it was perhaps either an activity indicator or
> > > they simply didnt have a standard diode to put in.. so they used a LED
> > > instead (not a good idea since it gobbles up current).
> > >
> > > Since it does power up and you have LED display activity, it sure sounds
> > > like it's not dead yet and perhaps recoverable.. just going to take
> > > time/patience to go thru it and restore it to OEM specs.
> > >
> > > -Blaine
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Tavish McDonald <tavishmcronald@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Yeah this thing is definitely going to need some work, I thought getting
> > > it
> > > > cleaned up would be a good place to start while I find parts. I have
> > > > powered it on with an adapter without Q1 somehow, I wonder if the
> > > > nonfunctional headphone jack has anything to do with this transistor. I
> > > > have the service manual.
> > > >
> > > > Yes the compartment shows signs of battery leakage.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.sdelectronic.rs/php/elm.php?prm=TR2SB
> > > > based on this it looks like TR2SB764 is 60v 1a 10w. Is that what I need
> > > to
> > > > know to find a replacement or is there more to it than that? Obviously I
> > > > don't know much about electronics/transistors.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>