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Tabernack, "is another problem" is true. I have failed spectacularly
in my attempt to do the moogslayer mod. I did the straight pot
transfer from vr5 and vr2 to the front pannel with a factory/ mod
switch as per the olaf-nv "schematic" in photos. That worked fine,
but i must have miss-wired something when i attempted to do the full
moog slayer mod. No output except for very faint static when pressing
a key that continues for about a second after releasing the key, even
after returning everything to before any changes. While pulling out
the changes I did get one tone while touching with my finger one of
the wires that went to VR5 that would change when moving the joystick
downward. The diode I thought was smoked was fine. The only tools i
have at my disposal are a decent multimeter with Hz measurement and a
soldering iron. Is there any hope? Assume that i sent the 4v dc
straight into any of the other connections ground, VR5 or VR2. (next
time i will use different colored wires). All other functions work
tape load, midi out parameter change etc.
Hope its not junk, help...
--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Marco Andreetta
<marco_andreetta@...> wrote:
>
> From the schematic D2 looks like a polarity inversion protection and
every 1N400x serie diode will work (i.e.1n4001).
>
> "The board lights up but no sound" it's another problem, not related
to d2, so check again the other connections carefully.
>
> bye,
>
> Marco.
>
>
> funkymonkeypeter <funkymonkey3.14@...> ha scritto:
The leg on the D2 diode was kinda short and while
attempting the
> slayer mod i'm pretty sure i cooked it trying to get the solder to
> hold. I checked the schematics and it is listed as just D2 (no
> value). Board lights up but no sound. What should i replace it with.
> Next time i'll flip the board first to find a better spot for my glob
> of solder. The only marking on the diode is something that looks like
> a pointy radiation warning sign.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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