Yamaha CS80

I decided to post in a new thread because the old one was getting out of control. I've narrowed the bulb models down to two different candidates and they are both equally good in their own special ways. Both of them are way better quality than the originals. I'm interested in group input and suggestions before I make a substantial investment.

I've posted a picture in the photos section of this group that I'll refer to during this post. The album is labeled Preset Bulbs.

Here's the dilemma:

The bulb on the left is an original and working CS-80 bulb that I pulled out of my CS-80 for reference.

The bulb in the center is a very high grade military bulb that is an awesome fit. It consumes substantially less current than the original or the bulb to the right of it which I'll talk about in a minute. I've measured 14v and some change across it which means it's consuming wayyyy less current than the original bulbs. It is the better quality bulb compared to its competitor. Unfortunately, it is more expensive than the other one to the right of it. Its lumen output is almost exactly the same as the original bulbs. Its color is a little bit whiter but it is very very subtle. (This could be due to discharge buildup on the inside of the glass or age) The filament mount is the same. The filament is a single wire instead of coiled like the original or the one to the left of it. The leads are plated. The only thing that sucks about this bulb is that I have to buy it in some silly aircraft panel mount which takes about 20 seconds to remove. That's why the leads are squirrely.

The bulb to the right is about a third brighter than the original and consumes slightly more current. I measured about 100mv more of a voltage drop on it than the original. It is slightly cheaper than the military grade one. It runs at a slightly lower voltage than its specifications when it is in the CS-80 which means that it will last longer than it's rated life. The filament is on a double mount running parallel which helps project the light upward. The only thing that really sucks is that it runs slightly hotter than the original. If we were to go with this one, it would probably be best to replace all of the bulbs in the panel so that the lighting is uniform.

Whew, that was a long post. If anybody cares, what bulb do you think that we should go with? I'm getting prices for each on Monday.

-Mike

Hi Mike,

That sounds fine. I am about to pull apart a CS60 to see if they are
the same bulbs, if they are i might be up for a larger number -
depending of course on how expensive they are.

AK

On 27/03/2011, at 10:51 AM, Mike wrote:

> hich means it's consuming wayyyy less current than the original
> bulbs. It is the better quality bulb compared to its competitor.
> Unfortunately, it is more expensive than the other one to the right
> of it. Its lumen output is almost exactly the same as the original
> bulbs. Its color is a little bit whiter but it is very very subtle.
> (This could be due to discharge buildup on the inside of the glass
> or age) The filament mount i

Andrew Kirkby
(e) kirkbyte@...
(m) 0416 000 070






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mike,

I think the bulb in the middle is the go.

AK

On 27/03/2011, at 10:51 AM, Mike wrote:

> I decided to post in a new thread because the old one was getting
> out of control. I've narrowed the bulb models down to two different
> candidates and they are both equally good in their own special ways.
> Both of them are way better quality than the originals. I'm
> interested in group input and suggestions before I make a
> substantial investment.
>
> I've posted a picture in the photos section of this group that I'll
> refer to during this post. The album is labeled Preset Bulbs.
>
> Here's the dilemma:
>
> The bulb on the left is an original and working CS-80 bulb that I
> pulled out of my CS-80 for reference.
>
> The bulb in the center is a very high grade military bulb that is an
> awesome fit. It consumes substantially less current than the
> original or the bulb to the right of it which I'll talk about in a
> minute. I've measured 14v and some change across it which means it's
> consuming wayyyy less current than the original bulbs. It is the
> better quality bulb compared to its competitor. Unfortunately, it is
> more expensive than the other one to the right of it. Its lumen
> output is almost exactly the same as the original bulbs. Its color
> is a little bit whiter but it is very very subtle. (This could be
> due to discharge buildup on the inside of the glass or age) The
> filament mount is the same. The filament is a single wire instead of
> coiled like the original or the one to the left of it. The leads are
> plated. The only thing that sucks about this bulb is that I have to
> buy it in some silly aircraft panel mount which takes about 20
> seconds to remove. That's why the leads are squirrely.
>
> The bulb to the right is about a third brighter than the original
> and consumes slightly more current. I measured about 100mv more of a
> voltage drop on it than the original. It is slightly cheaper than
> the military grade one. It runs at a slightly lower voltage than its
> specifications when it is in the CS-80 which means that it will last
> longer than it's rated life. The filament is on a double mount
> running parallel which helps project the light upward. The only
> thing that really sucks is that it runs slightly hotter than the
> original. If we were to go with this one, it would probably be best
> to replace all of the bulbs in the panel so that the lighting is
> uniform.
>
> Whew, that was a long post. If anybody cares, what bulb do you think
> that we should go with? I'm getting prices for each on Monday.
>
> -Mike
>
>
>

Andrew Kirkby
(e) kirkbyte@...
(m) 0416 000 070






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That's what I'm thinking too. Thanks for your insight.

-Mike

--- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Kirkby <kirkbyte@...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> I think the bulb in the middle is the go.
>
> AK
> On 27/03/2011, at 10:51 AM, Mike wrote:
>
> > I decided to post in a new thread because the old one was getting
> > out of control. I've narrowed the bulb models down to two different
> > candidates and they are both equally good in their own special ways.
> > Both of them are way better quality than the originals. I'm
> > interested in group input and suggestions before I make a
> > substantial investment.
> >
> > I've posted a picture in the photos section of this group that I'll
> > refer to during this post. The album is labeled Preset Bulbs.
> >
> > Here's the dilemma:
> >
> > The bulb on the left is an original and working CS-80 bulb that I
> > pulled out of my CS-80 for reference.
> >
> > The bulb in the center is a very high grade military bulb that is an
> > awesome fit. It consumes substantially less current than the
> > original or the bulb to the right of it which I'll talk about in a
> > minute. I've measured 14v and some change across it which means it's
> > consuming wayyyy less current than the original bulbs. It is the
> > better quality bulb compared to its competitor. Unfortunately, it is
> > more expensive than the other one to the right of it. Its lumen
> > output is almost exactly the same as the original bulbs. Its color
> > is a little bit whiter but it is very very subtle. (This could be
> > due to discharge buildup on the inside of the glass or age) The
> > filament mount is the same. The filament is a single wire instead of
> > coiled like the original or the one to the left of it. The leads are
> > plated. The only thing that sucks about this bulb is that I have to
> > buy it in some silly aircraft panel mount which takes about 20
> > seconds to remove. That's why the leads are squirrely.
> >
> > The bulb to the right is about a third brighter than the original
> > and consumes slightly more current. I measured about 100mv more of a
> > voltage drop on it than the original. It is slightly cheaper than
> > the military grade one. It runs at a slightly lower voltage than its
> > specifications when it is in the CS-80 which means that it will last
> > longer than it's rated life. The filament is on a double mount
> > running parallel which helps project the light upward. The only
> > thing that really sucks is that it runs slightly hotter than the
> > original. If we were to go with this one, it would probably be best
> > to replace all of the bulbs in the panel so that the lighting is
> > uniform.
> >
> > Whew, that was a long post. If anybody cares, what bulb do you think
> > that we should go with? I'm getting prices for each on Monday.
> >
> > -Mike
> >
> >
> >
>
> Andrew Kirkby
> (e) kirkbyte@...
> (m) 0416 000 070
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Here's the e-bay link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320677774366&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

--- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mborish_2000@...> wrote:
>
> I decided to post in a new thread because the old one was getting out of control. I've narrowed the bulb models down to two different candidates and they are both equally good in their own special ways. Both of them are way better quality than the originals. I'm interested in group input and suggestions before I make a substantial investment.
>
> I've posted a picture in the photos section of this group that I'll refer to during this post. The album is labeled Preset Bulbs.
>
> Here's the dilemma:
>
> The bulb on the left is an original and working CS-80 bulb that I pulled out of my CS-80 for reference.
>
> The bulb in the center is a very high grade military bulb that is an awesome fit. It consumes substantially less current than the original or the bulb to the right of it which I'll talk about in a minute. I've measured 14v and some change across it which means it's consuming wayyyy less current than the original bulbs. It is the better quality bulb compared to its competitor. Unfortunately, it is more expensive than the other one to the right of it. Its lumen output is almost exactly the same as the original bulbs. Its color is a little bit whiter but it is very very subtle. (This could be due to discharge buildup on the inside of the glass or age) The filament mount is the same. The filament is a single wire instead of coiled like the original or the one to the left of it. The leads are plated. The only thing that sucks about this bulb is that I have to buy it in some silly aircraft panel mount which takes about 20 seconds to remove. That's why the leads are squirrely.
>
> The bulb to the right is about a third brighter than the original and consumes slightly more current. I measured about 100mv more of a voltage drop on it than the original. It is slightly cheaper than the military grade one. It runs at a slightly lower voltage than its specifications when it is in the CS-80 which means that it will last longer than it's rated life. The filament is on a double mount running parallel which helps project the light upward. The only thing that really sucks is that it runs slightly hotter than the original. If we were to go with this one, it would probably be best to replace all of the bulbs in the panel so that the lighting is uniform.
>
> Whew, that was a long post. If anybody cares, what bulb do you think that we should go with? I'm getting prices for each on Monday.
>
> -Mike
>

hi mike, thanks so much for doing the bulbs! i just got my order of them yesterday.ive got 2 questions, if you dont mind, before swapping them out:
1-i saw the current draw specs, and how much better they look; have you(or anyone) swapped out the ENTIRE stock set for new bulbs yet? just wanna make sure that its "ok" to do the whole set as precautionary measure.
2-im assuming their is a polarity to the bulbs? if so, how do i tell it? thanks again, rj

















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I understand your concerns and you can replace all of them. They work fine.

First, it won't make a difference if you swap out between two or the entire set because only two can be engaged at a time on a single IG00157 or the entire synth.

I have tested these bulbs extensively in and out of the preset panel. I've done some testing on the IG00157 chips too. Fortunately, the IG00157 has a short circuit kill switch built into it if you mess up really bad and the bulb leads touch or something.

If it helps you feel better, here's some more info from my research comingled with a few tips. Cold filament inrush current, PUPD (Power up Power Down), and button bounce (when you press a panel button and it makes contact several times within a few milliseconds) are the most stressful tasks that the IG00157 has to deal with. Cold filament inrush current for an incandescent lamp is roughly 10 times the current consumption that a lamp consumes during its stable operational state. My bulbs consume a third less current compared to the originals in their stable operational state. The IG00157 is not going to care where on the decay curve to the stable state the inrush current starts compared to the originals and lower peak current consumption will probably prolong the life of the chip. I suggest replacing the 100uf and 10uf caps under the preset panel to help keep the IG00157's stable if you are serious about prolonging the life of your synth.

When Yamaha designed the IG00157 and buttons, they had to consider voltage, wattage, heat transfer, and replacement availability of the bulbs. Trying to figure out why the original bulbs had a voltage drop of 13.75v instead of 14v had me thinking for a long time. 5v, 6.3v, 10v, 12v, 14v, and 28v are the industry standard voltage options for the lamp model that goes in the synth. 5v, 6.3v, 10v, and 12v won't work because they'll burn up. I'm assuming that the originals are 1,000 hr to 2,500 hr 14v bulbs because they burn out a lot and 28v would last for ever but look strange. The engineers could have either designed the IG00157 to output voltage a bit lower (a common industry practice to prolong life) or maybe they weren't an exact fit - they could have looked better on paper:) My bulbs run at about 14.05,v which is well within industry specs and have the same lumen output which indicate that they are a good fit. If they were running at 13v or 15v, I would be worried that I had the wrong bulb because current and voltage didn't match up. Putting in higher output bulbs can lower the voltage drop down to about 13v but they really really get hot and could melt the plastic. Again, with higher output bulbs, the cold filament inrush current could be a problem.

The bulbs are not polarized. They will still draw the same current if they are upside down, a/c, dc, etc.

Another thing, when you remove the bulbs, grab the entire rubber mount NOT THE BULB with needle nose pliers and pull up. The rubber mount is held in place by two conductive poles that run through it. you can see the top of the two poles peeking out of each side when you look down on the mount from above. Once you get the rubber mount out, push out the bulb from the top and then reverse the process to put a new bulb in.

-Mike

--- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, rj krohn <r_j_d_2.phila@...> wrote:
>
> hi mike, thanks so much for doing the bulbs! i just got my order of them yesterday.ive got 2 questions, if you dont mind, before swapping them out:
> 1-i saw the current draw specs, and how much better they look; have you(or anyone) swapped out the ENTIRE stock set for new bulbs yet? just wanna make sure that its "ok" to do the whole set as precautionary measure.
> 2-im assuming their is a polarity to the bulbs? if so, how do i tell it? thanks again, rj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

fantastic-thanks mike!!!

--- On Tue, 4/5/11, Mike <mborish_2000@...> wrote:

From: Mike <mborish_2000@...>
Subject: [yamahacs80] Re: Preset Bulbs Are Here!
To: yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, April 5, 2011, 6:44 PM
















 









I understand your concerns and you can replace all of them. They work fine.



First, it won't make a difference if you swap out between two or the entire set because only two can be engaged at a time on a single IG00157 or the entire synth.



I have tested these bulbs extensively in and out of the preset panel. I've done some testing on the IG00157 chips too. Fortunately, the IG00157 has a short circuit kill switch built into it if you mess up really bad and the bulb leads touch or something.



If it helps you feel better, here's some more info from my research comingled with a few tips. Cold filament inrush current, PUPD (Power up Power Down), and button bounce (when you press a panel button and it makes contact several times within a few milliseconds) are the most stressful tasks that the IG00157 has to deal with. Cold filament inrush current for an incandescent lamp is roughly 10 times the current consumption that a lamp consumes during its stable operational state. My bulbs consume a third less current compared to the originals in their stable operational state. The IG00157 is not going to care where on the decay curve to the stable state the inrush current starts compared to the originals and lower peak current consumption will probably prolong the life of the chip. I suggest replacing the 100uf and 10uf caps under the preset panel to help keep the IG00157's stable if you are serious about prolonging the life of your synth.



When Yamaha designed the IG00157 and buttons, they had to consider voltage, wattage, heat transfer, and replacement availability of the bulbs. Trying to figure out why the original bulbs had a voltage drop of 13.75v instead of 14v had me thinking for a long time. 5v, 6.3v, 10v, 12v, 14v, and 28v are the industry standard voltage options for the lamp model that goes in the synth. 5v, 6.3v, 10v, and 12v won't work because they'll burn up. I'm assuming that the originals are 1,000 hr to 2,500 hr 14v bulbs because they burn out a lot and 28v would last for ever but look strange. The engineers could have either designed the IG00157 to output voltage a bit lower (a common industry practice to prolong life) or maybe they weren't an exact fit - they could have looked better on paper:) My bulbs run at about 14.05,v which is well within industry specs and have the same lumen output which indicate that they are a good fit. If they were running at 13v or 15v, I
would be worried that I had the wrong bulb because current and voltage didn't match up. Putting in higher output bulbs can lower the voltage drop down to about 13v but they really really get hot and could melt the plastic. Again, with higher output bulbs, the cold filament inrush current could be a problem.



The bulbs are not polarized. They will still draw the same current if they are upside down, a/c, dc, etc.



Another thing, when you remove the bulbs, grab the entire rubber mount NOT THE BULB with needle nose pliers and pull up. The rubber mount is held in place by two conductive poles that run through it. you can see the top of the two poles peeking out of each side when you look down on the mount from above. Once you get the rubber mount out, push out the bulb from the top and then reverse the process to put a new bulb in.



-Mike



--- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, rj krohn <r_j_d_2.phila@...> wrote:

>

> hi mike, thanks so much for doing the bulbs! i just got my order of them yesterday.ive got 2 questions, if you dont mind, before swapping them out:

> 1-i saw the current draw specs, and how much better they look; have you(or anyone) swapped out the ENTIRE stock set for new bulbs yet? just wanna make sure that its "ok" to do the whole set as precautionary measure.

> 2-im assuming their is a polarity to the bulbs? if so, how do i tell it? thanks again, rj

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm glad that I can help. Thanks for buying them off of me.

-Mike

--- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, rj krohn <r_j_d_2.phila@...> wrote:
>
> fantastic-thanks mike!!!
>
> --- On Tue, 4/5/11, Mike <mborish_2000@...> wrote:
>
> From: Mike <mborish_2000@...>
> Subject: [yamahacs80] Re: Preset Bulbs Are Here!
> To: yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, April 5, 2011, 6:44 PM
>
>
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>  
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> I understand your concerns and you can replace all of them. They work fine.
>
>
>
> First, it won't make a difference if you swap out between two or the entire set because only two can be engaged at a time on a single IG00157 or the entire synth.
>
>
>
> I have tested these bulbs extensively in and out of the preset panel. I've done some testing on the IG00157 chips too. Fortunately, the IG00157 has a short circuit kill switch built into it if you mess up really bad and the bulb leads touch or something.
>
>
>
> If it helps you feel better, here's some more info from my research comingled with a few tips. Cold filament inrush current, PUPD (Power up Power Down), and button bounce (when you press a panel button and it makes contact several times within a few milliseconds) are the most stressful tasks that the IG00157 has to deal with. Cold filament inrush current for an incandescent lamp is roughly 10 times the current consumption that a lamp consumes during its stable operational state. My bulbs consume a third less current compared to the originals in their stable operational state. The IG00157 is not going to care where on the decay curve to the stable state the inrush current starts compared to the originals and lower peak current consumption will probably prolong the life of the chip. I suggest replacing the 100uf and 10uf caps under the preset panel to help keep the IG00157's stable if you are serious about prolonging the life of your synth.
>
>
>
> When Yamaha designed the IG00157 and buttons, they had to consider voltage, wattage, heat transfer, and replacement availability of the bulbs. Trying to figure out why the original bulbs had a voltage drop of 13.75v instead of 14v had me thinking for a long time. 5v, 6.3v, 10v, 12v, 14v, and 28v are the industry standard voltage options for the lamp model that goes in the synth. 5v, 6.3v, 10v, and 12v won't work because they'll burn up. I'm assuming that the originals are 1,000 hr to 2,500 hr 14v bulbs because they burn out a lot and 28v would last for ever but look strange. The engineers could have either designed the IG00157 to output voltage a bit lower (a common industry practice to prolong life) or maybe they weren't an exact fit - they could have looked better on paper:) My bulbs run at about 14.05,v which is well within industry specs and have the same lumen output which indicate that they are a good fit. If they were running at 13v or 15v, I
> would be worried that I had the wrong bulb because current and voltage didn't match up. Putting in higher output bulbs can lower the voltage drop down to about 13v but they really really get hot and could melt the plastic. Again, with higher output bulbs, the cold filament inrush current could be a problem.
>
>
>
> The bulbs are not polarized. They will still draw the same current if they are upside down, a/c, dc, etc.
>
>
>
> Another thing, when you remove the bulbs, grab the entire rubber mount NOT THE BULB with needle nose pliers and pull up. The rubber mount is held in place by two conductive poles that run through it. you can see the top of the two poles peeking out of each side when you look down on the mount from above. Once you get the rubber mount out, push out the bulb from the top and then reverse the process to put a new bulb in.
>
>
>
> -Mike
>
>
>
> --- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, rj krohn <r_j_d_2.phila@> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > hi mike, thanks so much for doing the bulbs! i just got my order of them yesterday.ive got 2 questions, if you dont mind, before swapping them out:
>
> > 1-i saw the current draw specs, and how much better they look; have you(or anyone) swapped out the ENTIRE stock set for new bulbs yet? just wanna make sure that its "ok" to do the whole set as precautionary measure.
>
> > 2-im assuming their is a polarity to the bulbs? if so, how do i tell it? thanks again, rj
>
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Mike,
sincerely ) would buy the bulbs, but would like to know:
have they been tested for long time? i mean, are they reliable in the long run?
Is it convenient to replace all of them , although the original are still working?

Last, how much do a complete set cost?
To Italy-

Sorry if I came off as abrasive yesterday... just about everything I was working on that could go wrong did. The bulbs posted on e-bay are rated for 10,000 hours at 14v A.C. by their manufacturer. As a general rule, when a bulb is fed D.C. at its rated voltage, it is expected to last half as long. The bulbs are military quality. All of the info you need is in the e-bay auction.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Yamaha-CS-80-CS80-Preset-Incandescent-Bulbs-/320677774366

I did the only test that I could with them without actually running them for 5,000 hours D.C. This test was fun. I found an equation stating that: "The life of a miniature lamp is inversely proportional to the 12th power of the applied voltage." So I figured, well, why not reverse the equation for longevity and cook em! Plugging into the above equation, I needed about 20.5 volts A.C. to get the things to burn out after 1% of their rated life. I hooked up my PSU and the samples that I had left in parallel. After 3 days and a few hours they were all done. (100 hours was the goal) I'm sure that there are other variables I didn't account for, but it was a fun test.

Setting the fun aside, I've sold 4 sets so far and haven't received a complaint or even heard of a bulb burning out. Only one e-bay individual has left me feedback.

I think they are reliable. I bought them from a very reputable manufacturer, am following their usage instructions, and did as much homework as I could.

Personally, I think that it is best to replace all of them. After talking with a few folks, plus hearing heard horror stories of buttons melting and bleaching (probably from the wrong replacements), it doesn't seem like a bad idea. Furthermore, the originals are probably at the end of their life anyway. I also work on mixing consoles and it's not uncommon to see half of the bulbs burned out on a desk that hasn't been maintained since the 80's.

http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/yamahacs80/message/2035

I don't see how the originals could melt or bleach but there are a few similar sized bulbs out there that consume WAAYYY more current than the originals and run a lot hotter as well as brighter. My bulbs consume a third less current than the originals, run a lot cooler than the originals, and have the same lumen output as the originals.

I hope that this answers your question.

-Mike

--- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, Fernando Zarone <fernandozarone@...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
> sincerely ) would buy the bulbs, but would like to know:
> have they been tested for long time? i mean, are they reliable in the long run?
> Is it convenient to replace all of them , although the original are still working?
>
> Last, how much do a complete set cost?
> To Italy-
>

Mike,

thanks for your message. We've had a great group going here for almost
7 years now with basically zero spam, trolling, or other anti-social
(digital?) posts. I certainly understand having a bad day and
sometimes the requests for help can seem a bit much - sometimes
appearing more-so from members whose first language isn't English. It's
great that you researched and located a source of replacement bulbs.
Amazingly, the CS80 I recently finished fixing, for all its many, many
problems, didn't need any bulbs :)

There are tons of folks here with widely varied backgrounds. I've given
help when I could and also gotten help from others at times when I've
been stuck on a repair. I don't do this for a living unlike some of the
people here. I just enjoy working on the beasts and helping out
desperate CS80 (and occasionally Oberheim and Moog) owners who need
repairs or MIDI installs. Sometimes I wish I could do it full time, but,
alas, I don't think I could make as much money as my day job designing
(evil digital) computer chips...

Anyway, thanks again everyone for making this a great group. Now go
play with your poly aftertouch and ribbon controllers :)

David


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thank you for the reply, David.
Mike, I had understood the tone of your reply being due to the mood of a bad day (everybody has sometimes). That's why I did not reply to the first part of your message.
In any case, due to the fact that such lists are also a source of knowledge and friendship, I wanted to clarify that yes, music is only a hobby for me, my job is totally different and very hard (little time for hobbies). And yes, I do own a lot of vintage synths, very soughtafter and rare today, that I more often had bought for cheap when people used to go digital; and mostly were broken. So a desire arose inside me, I repaired them, giving a new life to real pieces of history.
Moreover, these machines are very often lent to real and very popular musicians here in Italy, absolutely for free. This is the background of my story, that's all. Sorry if I have annoyed somebody with my requests of help and many thanks to all who helped a newbie like me (eventually I succeded in restoring the beast - up to now... :-).
I think that, although many renowned pro-techs like you are in the mail list, the spirit of it is that such passions are feeded by sharing opinions, suggestions, jokes and helps between the subscribers. BTW, I have been on Analogue Heaven for more than15 yrs now and it is another "mother" list...

Ciao
Fernando





Il giorno 11/mag/2011, alle ore 03.46, Mike ha scritto:

> Sorry if I came off as abrasive yesterday... just about everything I was working on that could go wrong did. The bulbs posted on e-bay are rated for 10,000 hours at 14v A.C. by their manufacturer. As a general rule, when a bulb is fed D.C. at its rated voltage, it is expected to last half as long. The bulbs are military quality. All of the info you need is in the e-bay auction.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Yamaha-CS-80-CS80-Preset-Incandescent-Bulbs-/320677774366
>
> I did the only test that I could with them without actually running them for 5,000 hours D.C. This test was fun. I found an equation stating that: "The life of a miniature lamp is inversely proportional to the 12th power of the applied voltage." So I figured, well, why not reverse the equation for longevity and cook em! Plugging into the above equation, I needed about 20.5 volts A.C. to get the things to burn out after 1% of their rated life. I hooked up my PSU and the samples that I had left in parallel. After 3 days and a few hours they were all done. (100 hours was the goal) I'm sure that there are other variables I didn't account for, but it was a fun test.
>
> Setting the fun aside, I've sold 4 sets so far and haven't received a complaint or even heard of a bulb burning out. Only one e-bay individual has left me feedback.
>
> I think they are reliable. I bought them from a very reputable manufacturer, am following their usage instructions, and did as much homework as I could.
>
> Personally, I think that it is best to replace all of them. After talking with a few folks, plus hearing heard horror stories of buttons melting and bleaching (probably from the wrong replacements), it doesn't seem like a bad idea. Furthermore, the originals are probably at the end of their life anyway. I also work on mixing consoles and it's not uncommon to see half of the bulbs burned out on a desk that hasn't been maintained since the 80's.
>
> http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/yamahacs80/message/2035
>
> I don't see how the originals could melt or bleach but there are a few similar sized bulbs out there that consume WAAYYY more current than the originals and run a lot hotter as well as brighter. My bulbs consume a third less current than the originals, run a lot cooler than the originals, and have the same lumen output as the originals.
>
> I hope that this answers your question.
>
> -Mike
>
> --- In yamahacs80@yahoogroups.com, Fernando Zarone <fernandozarone@...> wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> > sincerely ) would buy the bulbs, but would like to know:
> > have they been tested for long time? i mean, are they reliable in the long run?
> > Is it convenient to replace all of them , although the original are still working?
> >
> > Last, how much do a complete set cost?
> > To Italy-
> >
>
>

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