JH. wrote:
on right). There are screws from the bottom of the case and machine
screws from the top of the panels. The ones from the bottom are a pain
to line up to put it back together when you are done.
There's also some big screws on either side of the keybed frame. I
think there are two big Philips-head machine screws and one flat-head
wood screw on each side.
Good luck!
> All right, my CS-80 now runs (I used a ready-made autotransformer - didn'tGreat news!
> build anything myself).
>
> It's remarkably well in tune, considering the voyage around the world, but
> of course I still have to tune it to really enjoy it.
>
> Apparently it's not just the M boards that need tuning, though.Yikes - I do this in my sleep, so it's hard to actually remember the steps!
>
> So, stupid question: How do I get to the boards below the keybed?
>
> I see the two screws on the bottom, fine.You have to remove the side panels (glide/sustain on left, power switch
> But do I have to remove the left and right end blocks before I can lift the
> keybed?
>
on right). There are screws from the bottom of the case and machine
screws from the top of the panels. The ones from the bottom are a pain
to line up to put it back together when you are done.
There's also some big screws on either side of the keybed frame. I
think there are two big Philips-head machine screws and one flat-head
wood screw on each side.
> And do I have to put the card cage down to normal position, or can it stayYou want it in the up position.
> up in service position, for lifting the keybed?
>
Good luck!
