Thanks for the info Alex. You were right, quite a tedious process removing all the silicone from the circuit board but a relatively simple job. Tracked the fault to the usual suspects - bad tantalum caps - all is now well. Interesting that I found the now un-potted VCO has negligable temperature related drift, no more noticable than the other two potted ones over a 4 hour test period. Out of interest, did you re-pot your repaired modules? Thanks once more for the pointers. Cheers, J --- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "Alexis V. Rogers" <alexis.v.rogers@...> wrote: > > Opening the submodule can be tedious. > > There's a good photo tutorial here: > http://www.arptech.synth.net/decap.htm > > I've had good results using an X-ACTO knife instead of a saw to cut around the plastic enclosure. Although those flush-cut Japanese pull saws from Harbor Freight work well. I also just use my fingers to pick at the silicone rubber around the components, followed by toothpicks to get the little bits around and under leads. > > Here's a schematic for the 4027-1 in case you don't have one: > http://www.till.com/arptech/pdf/4027.pdf > > Good luck! > -Alex > > --- In vintagesynthrepair@yahoogroups.com, "James" <jamesdiplock@> wrote: > > > > Hello all... does anyone have any experience of opening & repairing a 4027-1 oscillator? The pulse wave on VCO1 in my 2600 disappeared and upon testing I found that the sawtooth output from the 4027-1 core was fluctuating around 1.5 to 2v instead of the expected 10v... any advice or suggestions on opening & trouble-shooting the submodule would be appreciated. > > > > Cheers, > > J. > > >
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Re: ARP 2600 VCO repair
2010-12-05 by James
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