On Monday 01 May 2006 04:34 pm, tdb1274 wrote: > hi, i have a omni 2 with nothing powering exept the power on light. > was wondering if i replace the tantulum 10uf caps on the power board > can i use electrolytic caps of same value. I wouldn't. The characteristics of those two kinds of parts are NOT the same. I forget in which datasheet it was, but one of the datasheets I have around here for one of the common 3-terminal regulators (7805, etc.) talks about the need for a cap right at the output of the device, and they specify either a 1uF tantalum or a 25 uF (!) aluminum electrolytic... > does it matter if they are non-polarized. Dunno why you'd want to go there. > Would ceramic disk caps work or do i just need to keep looking for tantulum. Where are you going to find a 10uF ceramic disk? I've never seen one that big, ever. 10pF, maybe, but that's not at all the same thing. > i searched all previous posts but didn't find anything too specific. I am > new to electronics and would appreciate any help. thanks > Ps should i go ahead and replace all the 10uf caps on all boards or > start with the power supply board and hope that gets me somewhere. If you're relatively inexperienced you might end up doing more damage than what you have now. Troubleshoot the thing first! You seem to suspect the power supply has a problem. That's easy to deal with -- measure the output voltages. ARP color-coded the output wiring, red is +15, purple is -15, and orange is +5, with black being ground. Do you have a meter? -- Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters" - Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James M Dakin
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Re: [vintagesynthrepair] arp omni problem
2006-05-02 by Roy J. Tellason
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