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KLM368a diod

KLM368a diod

2013-11-22 by <iorlovs@yahoo.com>

At the top right corner of KLM368a board i have found soldered diod (image attached). Why it was soldered, and do i need to unsolder?



http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/PolySix/photos/albums/1404048030/lightbox/737952942

Re: [PolySix] KLM368a diod

2013-11-22 by Johannes Hausensteiner

> Why it was soldered,
Apparently they forgot it in the original circuit, thus it did not make
it onto the PCB...

> and do i need to unsolder?
No.

What does it do?
IC20 (an LM13600, again...) is the (final) VCA before the signal leaves
the KLM-368 module. It performes the overall VCA modulation (tremolo
effect) by the MG. C82 together with R186, R87 form a power-on mute
circuit: when the power is switched on and the +15V rail becomes active
C82 still is discharged and the right side of R186 is pulled to +15V.
R186/R187 form a voltage divider setting the base of dual transistor
Q24 to ca. +0.65V. At the same time similar things happen at the other
half of Q24: the base is held at 0V by discharged C81. The common
emitter is held at ca. +0.6-0.7 thus cutting off the collector current
of the right side half of Q24, which in turn sets the gain of IC20B to
a minimum, switching off IC20B output. C81 is charged to a voltage set
by the programmed volume ("ATTENUATOR") via R188 and R189 and R195. It
adds some lag to changes in the programmed volume, which is hardly
noticable. After C82 is fully charged the voltage at the right side
base of Q24 is held at 0V by R187. Thus the gain of the VCA built from
IC20B and IC21A is controlled by the programmed volume and the VCA Mod
signal (LFO wave).

So what the use of this unnamed diode?
When power is switched off C82 is still fully charged to 15V. The +15V
rail drops to 0V (the buffer caps in the P/S are drained by all
circuitry which are connected to it). So the right hand side of C82 is
at 0V but at the same time is still is highly charged since R186, R87,
and Q24 are a rather light load. This sets the left hand side of C82 to
about -15V. Which at least turns Q24 fully on but even worse may damage
Q24 and/or IC20. The diode clamps this negative voltage to a harmless
value of max. -0.7V.
So this diode is a protective measure which is necessary for the moments
after power is switched off.

Johannes


Sorry for the long post ..


On 22.11.2013 11:42, iorlovs@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
> At the top right corner of KLM368a board i have found soldered diod
> (/*image*/ a/*ttached*/). Why it was soldered, and do i need to unsolder?
>
>
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/PolySix/photos/albums/1404048030/lightbox/737952942
>
>
>

Re: [PolySix] KLM368a diod

2013-11-25 by Terje Winther

At the top right corner of KLM368a board i have found soldered diod (image attached). Why it was soldered, and do i need to unsolder?

Hi.
I have that diode too, exactly like that. So my guess is that it is a factory modification. I have not looked into what it is, though, but my suggestion would be to leave it alone.


_,_._,___


Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-28 by Terje Winther

Hi all,

I do a lot of analog synth service here in Norway. One customer
brought in no less than 4 Polysix´es for service, and in the end I was
given one of them as payment for the repairs.
The one I ended up with was quite good-looking (front panel complete
with all original parts, keyboard nice, case quite all right etc.). It
did have some technical issues (one dead voice, several controls not
working properly, memory system out of order etc.). There was some
damage after the usual battery problem, and someone had tried to fix
it, but it was not a professional job. I started repair on the
processor board, but as I did so, I also searched the web for info,
and at the same time (good timing!) there was a discussion on the
Yahoo Polysix discussion list regarding some modifications. This got
me thinking, and after some reading and considering, I decided to "go
crazy" with the Polysix as I once did with my old ARP Axxe -
installing all kinds of modifications. However: all of them should be
useful, musical and well done. So this is what I did with my newly
acquired Korg Polysix:

- Completely took everything apart
- Removed rust
- Cleaned and dusted everything
- Replaced missing rubber foot with new original
- Replaced old hardware with new hardware (screws and spacers)
- Repaired two broken voices (bad SSM2056 chip on one voice, and bad
SSM2044 chip on the other)
- Removed the old power supply board and installed the new power
supply board from Kiwitechnics (brilliant kit!)
- Removed the damaged old processor board and installed the new
processor board from Kiwitechnics: the Kiwisix (even more brilliant!)
- Removed the two rear cable holders (not needed anymore because of
the Kiwisix upgrade)
- Improved grounding as suggested by Kiwitechnics (new wires, some
cutting in the aluminium foil)
- Installed the Polysex modulation kit
- Made a new LFO (MG) as a substitute for the PWM MG to the Polysex
mod kit, complete with speed pot and dual-colour LED
- Installed a toggle switch, so that the modwheel control to VCO can
be selected between internal MG (as original) or the new extra LFO/MG
installed for the Polysex kit
- Recapped the 3 electrolytic caps per voice (x 6) in the analog voice
chain on the voice card with very high quality "gold audio" el. caps
- Made the FX in/out modification, so I can have direct out, and use
the FX board as an pure effects board, or use the send/return for
additional treatments
- Made the post-effects modification for the effects board, with on/
off switch (complex multiway switching)
- Made the bass modification on the effects board, with on/off switch
- Made the treble modification on the effects, with on/off switch
- Installed the "VCO to VCF" modification as suggested by the late
Jürgen Haible (rip) with individual on/off switches per voice, and
with a total amount pot for all voices. An extra veroboard with 6 VCA
was needed for this, with a lot of flying wires. This mod was a lot of
work.
- Swapped out the 6 tiny LEDs per voice on the voice card, and wired
the new switches (same switches as the VCO-VCF mod above) with
internal LEDs on the front panel (these were quite expensive)
- Changed all 6 LED driver resistors for more brightness on the voice
LEDs (originally 4.7k, now 1.2k)
- Did the final touches, like mounting the new Kiwisix front panel
sticker and manual marking of the various other mods
- Mounted everything properly
- Checked, debugged and calibrated everything

Some comments:
- The Polysex modification kit use several analog signals, including
two analog signals from the old Korg processor: MG and the PWM LFO.
They are not present on the new Kiwisix processor board, because
everything is processed internally before CVs are sent to the analog
voice card. However; there is one analog signal called "LFO" coming
from the Kiwisix processor card, and on the Polysex web site it state
that you can use this signal, but that is only partially true. There
is an analog signal there, but it is only for turning the front panel
LED for the MG on and off. So there is no smooth modulation, only a
square wave. Useful in some settings, but not as intended. Solutions:
a. Use it as it is, which gives you "trills" and not sliding detune
(spread). Works for me, and I will use this alternative for now
b. Modify the squarewave LFO signal into quasi triangle signal, either
with a crude RC network, or with a 4046 chip
c. Make your own LFOs

- Since I made an extra LFO for the Polysex mod kit, I had the idea
that I could also route the new LFO to the mod wheel, which I did.
That way I could use the internal LFO (MG) to VCF and VCA, and the new
LFO to VCO with another setting for added variation. However, because
the new Kiwisix processor needed access to the modwheel in order to
handle MIDI I/O, that didn´t work. I still implemented it, though, but
have to be careful not to overload the outgoing MIDI signal. The
result is a bit different to what you think, but it does give me some
alternatives for performance.

- The bass mod. It does works, but either my ears aren´t good enough,
or my speaker system (with sub-woofer) isn´t good enough, because I
really can´t hear that much difference. I needed to measure it to
confirm that it worked properly.

- For the treble mod I first tried with a resistor similar to the one
in my synth, which was a 4.7k resistor, and not a 33k resistor as in
the service manual and on the web mod pages (...and the 1k resistor
that is supposed to be there is not present on my synth). That really
didn´t work. It was suggested I used a 33k resistor over the 22k
resistor, and I had a hard time understanding how that could work, but
in the end I found an 30.9k resistor that worked very good.

- I bought the wrong versions of the front panel switches with
internal LEDs in them: They had the right colour (green), but I bought
the versions where the LED on/off are synchronous with the switch. I
wanted the voice LED to work all the time. Now they will only work
when the "VCO - VCF" mod is on. On the other hand, then it will be
clearly visible when the mod is on, and if I want the lightshow I can
always turn them on, but keep the amount pot at zero.

What is missing:
- I wanted the plexiglass pitch and modwheels with LEDs, that somebody
have offered in the past. It seems that they are unobtainable now.
- I did consider one of those lovely new all-wooden cabinets, that you
can have in several types of solid wood. I sent out some inquiries,
but didn´t get any response, and my original cabinet is not that bad-
looking after all (a little nick in front under the keys and ever so
slight damage at the rear, lower corners), so I am keeping the
original cabinet for now.
- New bushings? The keyboard was quite clean and trigger fine, so no
need for service there, but I might need to take it all apart, clean
the contacts, take off all the keys and clean them, and install new
bushings. Some day…

All-in-all, it was a lot of work to do it all. The drilling, cable
stripping and pre-soldering, mounting, soldering and debugging was a
bit of work, and the planning and thinking during the project also
took a lot of time. However, it was all highly enjoyable work, and I
now have
- a much better understanding of the Polysix in general
- a much better understanding of all the mods and changes involved
- a great-sounding and great-working polysynth!

Photos of the results are in the Yahoo group photo section, under
"Polysix Modifications".


All the best,

Terje

Re: [PolySix] Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-28 by Alex Prescott

Awesome

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 7:02 AM, Terje Winther <terje.winther@wintherstormer.no> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I do a lot of analog synth service here in Norway. One customer
> brought in no less than 4 Polysix´es for service, and in the end I was
> given one of them as payment for the repairs.
> The one I ended up with was quite good-looking (front panel complete
> with all original parts, keyboard nice, case quite all right etc.). It
> did have some technical issues (one dead voice, several controls not
> working properly, memory system out of order etc.). There was some
> damage after the usual battery problem, and someone had tried to fix
> it, but it was not a professional job. I started repair on the
> processor board, but as I did so, I also searched the web for info,
> and at the same time (good timing!) there was a discussion on the
> Yahoo Polysix discussion list regarding some modifications. This got
> me thinking, and after some reading and considering, I decided to "go
> crazy" with the Polysix as I once did with my old ARP Axxe -
> installing all kinds of modifications. However: all of them should be
> useful, musical and well done. So this is what I did with my newly
> acquired Korg Polysix:
>
> - Completely took everything apart
> - Removed rust
> - Cleaned and dusted everything
> - Replaced missing rubber foot with new original
> - Replaced old hardware with new hardware (screws and spacers)
> - Repaired two broken voices (bad SSM2056 chip on one voice, and bad
> SSM2044 chip on the other)
> - Removed the old power supply board and installed the new power
> supply board from Kiwitechnics (brilliant kit!)
> - Removed the damaged old processor board and installed the new
> processor board from Kiwitechnics: the Kiwisix (even more brilliant!)
> - Removed the two rear cable holders (not needed anymore because of
> the Kiwisix upgrade)
> - Improved grounding as suggested by Kiwitechnics (new wires, some
> cutting in the aluminium foil)
> - Installed the Polysex modulation kit
> - Made a new LFO (MG) as a substitute for the PWM MG to the Polysex
> mod kit, complete with speed pot and dual-colour LED
> - Installed a toggle switch, so that the modwheel control to VCO can
> be selected between internal MG (as original) or the new extra LFO/MG
> installed for the Polysex kit
> - Recapped the 3 electrolytic caps per voice (x 6) in the analog voice
> chain on the voice card with very high quality "gold audio" el. caps
> - Made the FX in/out modification, so I can have direct out, and use
> the FX board as an pure effects board, or use the send/return for
> additional treatments
> - Made the post-effects modification for the effects board, with on/
> off switch (complex multiway switching)
> - Made the bass modification on the effects board, with on/off switch
> - Made the treble modification on the effects, with on/off switch
> - Installed the "VCO to VCF" modification as suggested by the late
> Jürgen Haible (rip) with individual on/off switches per voice, and
> with a total amount pot for all voices. An extra veroboard with 6 VCA
> was needed for this, with a lot of flying wires. This mod was a lot of
> work.
> - Swapped out the 6 tiny LEDs per voice on the voice card, and wired
> the new switches (same switches as the VCO-VCF mod above) with
> internal LEDs on the front panel (these were quite expensive)
> - Changed all 6 LED driver resistors for more brightness on the voice
> LEDs (originally 4.7k, now 1.2k)
> - Did the final touches, like mounting the new Kiwisix front panel
> sticker and manual marking of the various other mods
> - Mounted everything properly
> - Checked, debugged and calibrated everything
>
> Some comments:
> - The Polysex modification kit use several analog signals, including
> two analog signals from the old Korg processor: MG and the PWM LFO.
> They are not present on the new Kiwisix processor board, because
> everything is processed internally before CVs are sent to the analog
> voice card. However; there is one analog signal called "LFO" coming
> from the Kiwisix processor card, and on the Polysex web site it state
> that you can use this signal, but that is only partially true. There
> is an analog signal there, but it is only for turning the front panel
> LED for the MG on and off. So there is no smooth modulation, only a
> square wave. Useful in some settings, but not as intended. Solutions:
> a. Use it as it is, which gives you "trills" and not sliding detune
> (spread). Works for me, and I will use this alternative for now
> b. Modify the squarewave LFO signal into quasi triangle signal, either
> with a crude RC network, or with a 4046 chip
> c. Make your own LFOs
>
> - Since I made an extra LFO for the Polysex mod kit, I had the idea
> that I could also route the new LFO to the mod wheel, which I did.
> That way I could use the internal LFO (MG) to VCF and VCA, and the new
> LFO to VCO with another setting for added variation. However, because
> the new Kiwisix processor needed access to the modwheel in order to
> handle MIDI I/O, that didn´t work. I still implemented it, though, but
> have to be careful not to overload the outgoing MIDI signal. The
> result is a bit different to what you think, but it does give me some
> alternatives for performance.
>
> - The bass mod. It does works, but either my ears aren´t good enough,
> or my speaker system (with sub-woofer) isn´t good enough, because I
> really can´t hear that much difference. I needed to measure it to
> confirm that it worked properly.
>
> - For the treble mod I first tried with a resistor similar to the one
> in my synth, which was a 4.7k resistor, and not a 33k resistor as in
> the service manual and on the web mod pages (...and the 1k resistor
> that is supposed to be there is not present on my synth). That really
> didn´t work. It was suggested I used a 33k resistor over the 22k
> resistor, and I had a hard time understanding how that could work, but
> in the end I found an 30.9k resistor that worked very good.
>
> - I bought the wrong versions of the front panel switches with
> internal LEDs in them: They had the right colour (green), but I bought
> the versions where the LED on/off are synchronous with the switch. I
> wanted the voice LED to work all the time. Now they will only work
> when the "VCO - VCF" mod is on. On the other hand, then it will be
> clearly visible when the mod is on, and if I want the lightshow I can
> always turn them on, but keep the amount pot at zero.
>
> What is missing:
> - I wanted the plexiglass pitch and modwheels with LEDs, that somebody
> have offered in the past. It seems that they are unobtainable now.
> - I did consider one of those lovely new all-wooden cabinets, that you
> can have in several types of solid wood. I sent out some inquiries,
> but didn´t get any response, and my original cabinet is not that bad-
> looking after all (a little nick in front under the keys and ever so
> slight damage at the rear, lower corners), so I am keeping the
> original cabinet for now.
> - New bushings? The keyboard was quite clean and trigger fine, so no
> need for service there, but I might need to take it all apart, clean
> the contacts, take off all the keys and clean them, and install new
> bushings. Some day…
>
> All-in-all, it was a lot of work to do it all. The drilling, cable
> stripping and pre-soldering, mounting, soldering and debugging was a
> bit of work, and the planning and thinking during the project also
> took a lot of time. However, it was all highly enjoyable work, and I
> now have
> - a much better understanding of the Polysix in general
> - a much better understanding of all the mods and changes involved
> - a great-sounding and great-working polysynth!
>
> Photos of the results are in the Yahoo group photo section, under
> "Polysix Modifications".
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Terje
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>

RE: KLM368a diod

2013-12-28 by <jim@saltlands.com>

Wow!!!

Congrats Terje!!

Most powerful polysix ever????

:)

Re: [PolySix] Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-29 by Dennis Matana

Wow Terje, you have gone wild on that one! Maybe you can record a small sessions with it and share that with us? :D

Br, Dennis

ps new panel looks awesome on my P6 :)
 
 
                           


On Saturday, December 28, 2013 4:03 PM, Terje Winther <terje.winther@wintherstormer.no> wrote:
Hi all,

I do a lot of analog synth service here in Norway. One customer 
brought in no less than 4 Polysix´es for service, and in the end I was 
given one of them as payment for the repairs.
The one I ended up with was quite good-looking (front panel complete 
with all original parts, keyboard nice, case quite all right etc.). It 
did have some technical issues (one dead voice, several controls not 
working properly, memory system out of order etc.). There was some 
damage after the usual battery problem, and someone had tried to fix 
it, but it was not a professional job. I started repair on the 
processor board, but as I did so, I also searched the web for info, 
and at the same time (good timing!) there was a discussion on the 
Yahoo Polysix discussion list regarding some modifications. This got 
me thinking, and after some reading and considering, I decided to "go 
crazy" with the Polysix as I once did with my old ARP Axxe - 
installing all kinds of modifications. However: all of them should be 
useful, musical and well done. So this is what I did with my newly 
acquired Korg Polysix:

- Completely took everything apart
- Removed rust
- Cleaned and dusted everything
- Replaced missing rubber foot with new original
- Replaced old hardware with new hardware (screws and spacers)
- Repaired two broken voices (bad SSM2056 chip on one voice, and bad 
SSM2044 chip on the other)
- Removed the old power supply board and installed the new power 
supply board from Kiwitechnics (brilliant kit!)
- Removed the damaged old processor board and installed the new 
processor board from Kiwitechnics: the Kiwisix (even more brilliant!)
- Removed the two rear cable holders (not needed anymore because of 
the Kiwisix upgrade)
- Improved grounding as suggested by Kiwitechnics (new wires, some 
cutting in the aluminium foil)
- Installed the Polysex modulation kit
- Made a new LFO (MG) as a substitute for the PWM MG to the Polysex 
mod kit, complete with speed pot and dual-colour LED
- Installed a toggle switch, so that the modwheel control to VCO can 
be selected between internal MG (as original) or the new extra LFO/MG 
installed for the Polysex kit
- Recapped the 3 electrolytic caps per voice (x 6) in the analog voice 
chain on the voice card with very high quality "gold audio" el. caps
- Made the FX in/out modification, so I can have direct out, and use 
the FX board as an pure effects board, or use the send/return for 
additional treatments
- Made the post-effects modification for the effects board, with on/
off switch (complex multiway switching)
- Made the bass modification on the effects board, with on/off switch
- Made the treble modification on the effects, with on/off switch
- Installed the "VCO to VCF" modification as suggested by the late 
Jürgen Haible (rip) with individual on/off switches per voice, and 
with a total amount pot for all voices. An extra veroboard with 6 VCA 
was needed for this, with a lot of flying wires. This mod was a lot of 
work.
- Swapped out the 6 tiny LEDs per voice on the voice card, and wired 
the new switches (same switches as the VCO-VCF mod above) with 
internal LEDs on the front panel (these were quite expensive)
- Changed all 6 LED driver resistors for more brightness on the voice 
LEDs (originally 4.7k, now 1.2k)
- Did the final touches, like mounting the new Kiwisix front panel 
sticker and manual marking of the various other mods
- Mounted everything properly
- Checked, debugged and calibrated everything

Some comments:
- The Polysex modification kit use several analog signals, including 
two analog signals from the old Korg processor: MG and the PWM LFO. 
They are not present on the new Kiwisix processor board, because 
everything is processed internally before CVs are sent to the analog 
voice card. However; there is one analog signal called "LFO" coming 
from the Kiwisix processor card, and on the Polysex web site it state 
that you can use this signal, but that is only partially true. There 
is an analog signal there, but it is only for turning the front panel 
LED for the MG on and off. So there is no smooth modulation, only a 
square wave. Useful in some settings, but not as intended. Solutions:
a. Use it as it is, which gives you "trills" and not sliding detune 
(spread). Works for me, and I will use this alternative for now
b. Modify the squarewave LFO signal into quasi triangle signal, either 
with a crude RC network, or with a 4046 chip
c. Make your own LFOs

- Since I made an extra LFO for the Polysex mod kit, I had the idea 
that I could also route the new LFO to the mod wheel, which I did. 
That way I could use the internal LFO (MG) to VCF and VCA, and the new 
LFO to VCO with another setting for added variation. However, because 
the new Kiwisix processor needed access to the modwheel in order to 
handle MIDI I/O, that didn´t work. I still implemented it, though, but 
have to be careful not to overload the outgoing MIDI signal. The 
result is a bit different to what you think, but it does give me some 
alternatives for performance.

- The bass mod. It does works, but either my ears aren´t good enough, 
or my speaker system (with sub-woofer) isn´t good enough, because I 
really can´t hear that much difference. I needed to measure it to 
confirm that it worked properly.

- For the treble mod I first tried with a resistor similar to the one 
in my synth, which was a 4.7k resistor, and not a 33k resistor as in 
the service manual and on the web mod pages (...and the 1k resistor 
that is supposed to be there is not present on my synth). That really 
didn´t work. It was suggested I used a 33k resistor over the 22k 
resistor, and I had a hard time understanding how that could work, but 
in the end I found an 30.9k resistor that worked very good.

- I bought the wrong versions of the front panel switches with 
internal LEDs in them: They had the right colour (green), but I bought 
the versions where the LED on/off are synchronous with the switch. I 
wanted the voice LED to work all the time. Now they will only work 
when the "VCO - VCF" mod is on. On the other hand, then it will be 
clearly visible when the mod is on, and if I want the lightshow I can 
always turn them on, but keep the amount pot at zero.

What is missing:
- I wanted the plexiglass pitch and modwheels with LEDs, that somebody 
have offered in the past. It seems that they are unobtainable now.
- I did consider one of those lovely new all-wooden cabinets, that you 
can have in several types of solid wood. I sent out some inquiries, 
but didn´t get any response, and my original cabinet is not that bad-
looking after all (a little nick in front under the keys and ever so 
slight damage at the rear, lower corners), so I am keeping the 
original cabinet for now.
- New bushings? The keyboard was quite clean and trigger fine, so no 
need for service there, but I might need to take it all apart, clean 
the contacts, take off all the keys and clean them, and install new 
bushings. Some day…

All-in-all, it was a lot of work to do it all. The drilling, cable 
stripping and pre-soldering, mounting, soldering and debugging was a 
bit of work, and the planning and thinking during the project also 
took a lot of time. However, it was all highly enjoyable work, and I 
now have
- a much better understanding of the Polysix in general
- a much better understanding of all the mods and changes involved
- a great-sounding and great-working polysynth!

Photos of the results are in the Yahoo group photo section, under 
"Polysix Modifications".


All the best,

Terje






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Re: [PolySix] Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-29 by Tubbutec

Hi Terje,

this sounds really awesome. Do you have any pictures and/or sounds you
could share with us?

tobi

Am 28.12.2013 16:02, schrieb Terje Winther:
> Hi all,
>
> I do a lot of analog synth service here in Norway. One customer
> brought in no less than 4 Polysix´es for service, and in the end I was
> given one of them as payment for the repairs.
> The one I ended up with was quite good-looking (front panel complete
> with all original parts, keyboard nice, case quite all right etc.). It
> did have some technical issues (one dead voice, several controls not
> working properly, memory system out of order etc.). There was some
> damage after the usual battery problem, and someone had tried to fix
> it, but it was not a professional job. I started repair on the
> processor board, but as I did so, I also searched the web for info,
> and at the same time (good timing!) there was a discussion on the
> Yahoo Polysix discussion list regarding some modifications. This got
> me thinking, and after some reading and considering, I decided to "go
> crazy" with the Polysix as I once did with my old ARP Axxe -
> installing all kinds of modifications. However: all of them should be
> useful, musical and well done. So this is what I did with my newly
> acquired Korg Polysix:
>
> - Completely took everything apart
> - Removed rust
> - Cleaned and dusted everything
> - Replaced missing rubber foot with new original
> - Replaced old hardware with new hardware (screws and spacers)
> - Repaired two broken voices (bad SSM2056 chip on one voice, and bad
> SSM2044 chip on the other)
> - Removed the old power supply board and installed the new power
> supply board from Kiwitechnics (brilliant kit!)
> - Removed the damaged old processor board and installed the new
> processor board from Kiwitechnics: the Kiwisix (even more brilliant!)
> - Removed the two rear cable holders (not needed anymore because of
> the Kiwisix upgrade)
> - Improved grounding as suggested by Kiwitechnics (new wires, some
> cutting in the aluminium foil)
> - Installed the Polysex modulation kit
> - Made a new LFO (MG) as a substitute for the PWM MG to the Polysex
> mod kit, complete with speed pot and dual-colour LED
> - Installed a toggle switch, so that the modwheel control to VCO can
> be selected between internal MG (as original) or the new extra LFO/MG
> installed for the Polysex kit
> - Recapped the 3 electrolytic caps per voice (x 6) in the analog voice
> chain on the voice card with very high quality "gold audio" el. caps
> - Made the FX in/out modification, so I can have direct out, and use
> the FX board as an pure effects board, or use the send/return for
> additional treatments
> - Made the post-effects modification for the effects board, with on/
> off switch (complex multiway switching)
> - Made the bass modification on the effects board, with on/off switch
> - Made the treble modification on the effects, with on/off switch
> - Installed the "VCO to VCF" modification as suggested by the late
> Jürgen Haible (rip) with individual on/off switches per voice, and
> with a total amount pot for all voices. An extra veroboard with 6 VCA
> was needed for this, with a lot of flying wires. This mod was a lot of
> work.
> - Swapped out the 6 tiny LEDs per voice on the voice card, and wired
> the new switches (same switches as the VCO-VCF mod above) with
> internal LEDs on the front panel (these were quite expensive)
> - Changed all 6 LED driver resistors for more brightness on the voice
> LEDs (originally 4.7k, now 1.2k)
> - Did the final touches, like mounting the new Kiwisix front panel
> sticker and manual marking of the various other mods
> - Mounted everything properly
> - Checked, debugged and calibrated everything
>
> Some comments:
> - The Polysex modification kit use several analog signals, including
> two analog signals from the old Korg processor: MG and the PWM LFO.
> They are not present on the new Kiwisix processor board, because
> everything is processed internally before CVs are sent to the analog
> voice card. However; there is one analog signal called "LFO" coming
> from the Kiwisix processor card, and on the Polysex web site it state
> that you can use this signal, but that is only partially true. There
> is an analog signal there, but it is only for turning the front panel
> LED for the MG on and off. So there is no smooth modulation, only a
> square wave. Useful in some settings, but not as intended. Solutions:
> a. Use it as it is, which gives you "trills" and not sliding detune
> (spread). Works for me, and I will use this alternative for now
> b. Modify the squarewave LFO signal into quasi triangle signal, either
> with a crude RC network, or with a 4046 chip
> c. Make your own LFOs
>
> - Since I made an extra LFO for the Polysex mod kit, I had the idea
> that I could also route the new LFO to the mod wheel, which I did.
> That way I could use the internal LFO (MG) to VCF and VCA, and the new
> LFO to VCO with another setting for added variation. However, because
> the new Kiwisix processor needed access to the modwheel in order to
> handle MIDI I/O, that didn´t work. I still implemented it, though, but
> have to be careful not to overload the outgoing MIDI signal. The
> result is a bit different to what you think, but it does give me some
> alternatives for performance.
>
> - The bass mod. It does works, but either my ears aren´t good enough,
> or my speaker system (with sub-woofer) isn´t good enough, because I
> really can´t hear that much difference. I needed to measure it to
> confirm that it worked properly.
>
> - For the treble mod I first tried with a resistor similar to the one
> in my synth, which was a 4.7k resistor, and not a 33k resistor as in
> the service manual and on the web mod pages (...and the 1k resistor
> that is supposed to be there is not present on my synth). That really
> didn´t work. It was suggested I used a 33k resistor over the 22k
> resistor, and I had a hard time understanding how that could work, but
> in the end I found an 30.9k resistor that worked very good.
>
> - I bought the wrong versions of the front panel switches with
> internal LEDs in them: They had the right colour (green), but I bought
> the versions where the LED on/off are synchronous with the switch. I
> wanted the voice LED to work all the time. Now they will only work
> when the "VCO - VCF" mod is on. On the other hand, then it will be
> clearly visible when the mod is on, and if I want the lightshow I can
> always turn them on, but keep the amount pot at zero.
>
> What is missing:
> - I wanted the plexiglass pitch and modwheels with LEDs, that somebody
> have offered in the past. It seems that they are unobtainable now.
> - I did consider one of those lovely new all-wooden cabinets, that you
> can have in several types of solid wood. I sent out some inquiries,
> but didn´t get any response, and my original cabinet is not that bad-
> looking after all (a little nick in front under the keys and ever so
> slight damage at the rear, lower corners), so I am keeping the
> original cabinet for now.
> - New bushings? The keyboard was quite clean and trigger fine, so no
> need for service there, but I might need to take it all apart, clean
> the contacts, take off all the keys and clean them, and install new
> bushings. Some day…
>
> All-in-all, it was a lot of work to do it all. The drilling, cable
> stripping and pre-soldering, mounting, soldering and debugging was a
> bit of work, and the planning and thinking during the project also
> took a lot of time. However, it was all highly enjoyable work, and I
> now have
> - a much better understanding of the Polysix in general
> - a much better understanding of all the mods and changes involved
> - a great-sounding and great-working polysynth!
>
> Photos of the results are in the Yahoo group photo section, under
> "Polysix Modifications".
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Terje
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo Groups Links
>
>
>


--
Tubbutec
Tobias Münzer
http://tubbutec.de
mail@tubbutec.de

RE: Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-29 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

This is my dream repair and mod job! Very impressive, Terje.


Instead, here's what I have:


1. Part of the repair was ok: managed to remove the old battery, clean up the board, do a lot of point-to-point testing and most of the power calibration (cool!), I still get stuck on the part using Tape as only LEDs 1-4 will light up, and not 7-8 despite turning the required trimmers.


My MG and Cutoff/Resonance/Envelopes are still not working...


Unfortunately, these:


2. Contacted Old Crow for his board cloning service - No reply...


3. Ordered parts for a clone from Newark Canada, but some are still on back-order, so my parts set is incomplete.


4. Ordered the PCB for KLM-367 from Jed, but Canadian Post 'delivered' it to some poor soul residing in my neighbourhood (I don't know who), and who wasn't taken enough with the spirit of Christmas to bring the package to its rightful owner. Jed has been very cool about it so I may still get another one from him (many thanks, Jed).


5. With all the ICs I ordered new, effected replacement and testing, still no luck with MG,Cutoff/Res/Envelope.


Yash

Re: [PolySix] RE: Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-30 by Terje Winther

This is my dream repair and mod job! Very impressive, Terje.

Thanks!

My feedback after repairing lots of Polysix´es, and cleaning up many processor boards with battery leakage problems, many of them with similar problems like yours, all I can say is this:
Get yourself a Kiwisix processor upgrade. It really is worth it. Very easy to install, and all your problems is history.



Re: [PolySix] Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-30 by Terje Winther

this sounds really awesome. Do you have any pictures and/or sounds you
could share with us?

Yes, I took some photos that I uploaded into the Yahoo-groups website. You can get there from clicking at some link at the bottom of all list mails.
It is in a foler called "Polysix modification".
I didn´t understand that the upload took so long, so I thought something had gone wrong and uploaded the photos a second time, so now they are all in doubles. I tried to erase the dublicates, but that didn´t work, so I left it as it is.
I thought about writing some describtions/text on the photos, but I guess it is all self-explanatory.


Re: [PolySix] RE: Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-30 by Arturo B

Hi Terje,

Do you also recommend the Kiwi PSU upgrade when replacing the KLM-367? They seem to suggest (from what I remember) that the the Polysix PSU design is flawed and is the cause of the battery issue. Would replacing it be necessary if one is replacing the KLM-367?

Thanks,

Arturo.....

Sent from a Roland TR-808.

On Dec 30, 2013, at 5:46 AM, "Terje Winther" <terje.winther@wintherstormer.no> wrote:

This is my dream repair and mod job! Very impressive, Terje.

Thanks!

My feedback after repairing lots of Polysix´es, and cleaning up many processor boards with battery leakage problems, many of them with similar problems like yours, all I can say is this:
Get yourself a Kiwisix processor upgrade. It really is worth it. Very easy to install, and all your problems is history.



Re: [PolySix] RE: Various Polysic modifications

2013-12-30 by Terje Winther

Hi Arturo,
The Kiwi power supply board is optional, I think, and not necessary for the Kiwisix upgrade.
However: I too have had a lot of P6 and Mono/Poly synths in for service where there are suspicsualy lots of the 40xx chips that have failed, and not only because of the battery problem. So there might be some in Kiwitechnics statement that the poor power supply board is at fault. But then: so it is with many old synths. Most old synths benefit from power supply upgrades, like swapping out old electrolytics, power regulators and even diodes in the power supply regulator board.

Terje



 

Hi Terje,

Do you also recommend the Kiwi PSU upgrade when replacing the KLM-367? They seem to suggest (from what I remember) that the the Polysix PSU design is flawed and is the cause of the battery issue. Would replacing it be necessary if one is replacing the KLM-367?

Thanks,

Arturo.....

Sent from a Roland TR-808.

On Dec 30, 2013, at 5:46 AM, "Terje Winther" <terje.winther@wintherstormer.no> wrote:

This is my dream repair and mod job! Very impressive, Terje.

Thanks!

My feedback after repairing lots of Polysix´es, and cleaning up many processor boards with battery leakage problems, many of them with similar problems like yours, all I can say is this:
Get yourself a Kiwisix processor upgrade. It really is worth it. Very easy to install, and all your problems is history.






Re: [PolySix] Various Polysic modifications

2014-01-02 by Ben Stuyts

Hi Terje,

On 30 Dec 2013, at 11:49, Terje Winther <terje.winther@wintherstormer.no> wrote:

> this sounds really awesome. Do you have any pictures and/or sounds you
>> could share with us?
>
> Yes, I took some photos that I uploaded into the Yahoo-groups website. You can get there from clicking at some link at the bottom of all list mails.
> It is in a foler called "Polysix modification".
> I didn´t understand that the upload took so long, so I thought something had gone wrong and uploaded the photos a second time, so now they are all in doubles. I tried to erase the dublicates, but that didn´t work, so I left it as it is.
> I thought about writing some describtions/text on the photos, but I guess it is all self-explanatory.

When you upload photo’s, they have to be approved by the moderator (me), so that’s why there was a delay. I’ll take care of the duplicates, no worries. Thanks for the great pictures!

Ben

RE: KLM368a diod

2014-01-06 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Forgot to mention that Andrew Jury (SynthProf) still offered his service for making a new board, which is very cool.


Yash

RE: KLM368a diod

2014-01-21 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Terje,


I was wondering about the Jürgen Haible mod for VCO-to-VCF. Do you have a link to the description or some instructions or schematics, please?


Yash

Re: [PolySix] RE: KLM368a diod

2014-01-21 by Terje Winther

Hi Yash,

I was wondering about the Jürgen Haible mod for VCO-to-VCF. Do you have a link to the description or some instructions or schematics, please?

Most of the mods I found here:

The instructions regarding the VCO-to-VCF mod is rather thin:

The original info regarding Jürgen Haible´s Oberheim mod is here:

I couldn´t use the mod directly transfered to the PolySix. Only on my third attempt did it work, and in the end I used the one of the VCA´s of Bergfotron:
I built 6 x VCAs based on the LM13600, but didn´t use the output transistors in the chip, as explained here, but used TL074 as buffers. Also, I only build one exponential converter, and it could easily drive all 6 VCAs.

In addition I put in switches so I could turn each VCO-to-VCF effect on and off, and build a pot as a voltage divider to give the circiut the required control.

The last (or primary!) part is to know where to hook up this extra circuit to the Polysix analog circuit board: the signal output of each VCO and the control input summer of each VCF.




Re: [PolySix] RE: KLM368a diod

2014-01-21 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Thanks a lot Terje.


Looks like it's not a trivial mod, which is expected for a Polyphonic analog.

Re: [PolySix] Various Polysix modifications

2014-02-22 by Terje Winther

Finally, I have open a SoundCloud account, and uploaded a demo of my highly modified PolySix.
It is here:

Terje


Den 29. des.. 2013 kl. 13.12 skrev Dennis Matana:

 

Wow Terje, you have gone wild on that one! Maybe you can record a small sessions with it and share that with us? :D

Br, Dennis

ps new panel looks awesome on my P6 :)
 
 
                           


On Saturday, December 28, 2013 4:03 PM, Terje Winther <terje.winther@wintherstormer.no> wrote:
Hi all,

I do a lot of analog synth service here in Norway. One customer 
brought in no less than 4 Polysix´es for service, and in the end I was 
given one of them as payment for the repairs.
The one I ended up with was quite good-looking (front panel complete 
with all original parts, keyboard nice, case quite all right etc.). It 
did have some technical issues (one dead voice, several controls not 
working properly, memory system out of order etc.). There was some 
damage after the usual battery problem, and someone had tried to fix 
it, but it was not a professional job. I started repair on the 
processor board, but as I did so, I also searched the web for info, 
and at the same time (good timing!) there was a discussion on the 
Yahoo Polysix discussion list regarding some modifications. This got 
me thinking, and after some reading and considering, I decided to "go 
crazy" with the Polysix as I once did with my old ARP Axxe - 
installing all kinds of modifications. However: all of them should be 
useful, musical and well done. So this is what I did with my newly 
acquired Korg Polysix:

- Completely took everything apart
- Removed rust
- Cleaned and dusted everything
- Replaced missing rubber foot with new original
- Replaced old hardware with new hardware (screws and spacers)
- Repaired two broken voices (bad SSM2056 chip on one voice, and bad 
SSM2044 chip on the other)
- Removed the old power supply board and installed the new power 
supply board from Kiwitechnics (brilliant kit!)
- Removed the damaged old processor board and installed the new 
processor board from Kiwitechnics: the Kiwisix (even more brilliant!)
- Removed the two rear cable holders (not needed anymore because of 
the Kiwisix upgrade)
- Improved grounding as suggested by Kiwitechnics (new wires, some 
cutting in the aluminium foil)
- Installed the Polysex modulation kit
- Made a new LFO (MG) as a substitute for the PWM MG to the Polysex 
mod kit, complete with speed pot and dual-colour LED
- Installed a toggle switch, so that the modwheel control to VCO can 
be selected between internal MG (as original) or the new extra LFO/MG 
installed for the Polysex kit
- Recapped the 3 electrolytic caps per voice (x 6) in the analog voice 
chain on the voice card with very high quality "gold audio" el. caps
- Made the FX in/out modification, so I can have direct out, and use 
the FX board as an pure effects board, or use the send/return for 
additional treatments
- Made the post-effects modification for the effects board, with on/
off switch (complex multiway switching)
- Made the bass modification on the effects board, with on/off switch
- Made the treble modification on the effects, with on/off switch
- Installed the "VCO to VCF" modification as suggested by the late 
Jürgen Haible (rip) with individual on/off switches per voice, and 
with a total amount pot for all voices. An extra veroboard with 6 VCA 
was needed for this, with a lot of flying wires. This mod was a lot of 
work.
- Swapped out the 6 tiny LEDs per voice on the voice card, and wired 
the new switches (same switches as the VCO-VCF mod above) with 
internal LEDs on the front panel (these were quite expensive)
- Changed all 6 LED driver resistors for more brightness on the voice 
LEDs (originally 4.7k, now 1.2k)
- Did the final touches, like mounting the new Kiwisix front panel 
sticker and manual marking of the various other mods
- Mounted everything properly
- Checked, debugged and calibrated everything

Some comments:
- The Polysex modification kit use several analog signals, including 
two analog signals from the old Korg processor: MG and the PWM LFO. 
They are not present on the new Kiwisix processor board, because 
everything is processed internally before CVs are sent to the analog 
voice card. However; there is one analog signal called "LFO" coming 
from the Kiwisix processor card, and on the Polysex web site it state 
that you can use this signal, but that is only partially true. There 
is an analog signal there, but it is only for turning the front panel 
LED for the MG on and off. So there is no smooth modulation, only a 
square wave. Useful in some settings, but not as intended. Solutions:
a. Use it as it is, which gives you "trills" and not sliding detune 
(spread). Works for me, and I will use this alternative for now
b. Modify the squarewave LFO signal into quasi triangle signal, either 
with a crude RC network, or with a 4046 chip
c. Make your own LFOs

- Since I made an extra LFO for the Polysex mod kit, I had the idea 
that I could also route the new LFO to the mod wheel, which I did. 
That way I could use the internal LFO (MG) to VCF and VCA, and the new 
LFO to VCO with another setting for added variation. However, because 
the new Kiwisix processor needed access to the modwheel in order to 
handle MIDI I/O, that didn´t work. I still implemented it, though, but 
have to be careful not to overload the outgoing MIDI signal. The 
result is a bit different to what you think, but it does give me some 
alternatives for performance.

- The bass mod. It does works, but either my ears aren´t good enough, 
or my speaker system (with sub-woofer) isn´t good enough, because I 
really can´t hear that much difference. I needed to measure it to 
confirm that it worked properly.

- For the treble mod I first tried with a resistor similar to the one 
in my synth, which was a 4.7k resistor, and not a 33k resistor as in 
the service manual and on the web mod pages (...and the 1k resistor 
that is supposed to be there is not present on my synth). That really 
didn´t work. It was suggested I used a 33k resistor over the 22k 
resistor, and I had a hard time understanding how that could work, but 
in the end I found an 30.9k resistor that worked very good.

- I bought the wrong versions of the front panel switches with 
internal LEDs in them: They had the right colour (green), but I bought 
the versions where the LED on/off are synchronous with the switch. I 
wanted the voice LED to work all the time. Now they will only work 
when the "VCO - VCF" mod is on. On the other hand, then it will be 
clearly visible when the mod is on, and if I want the lightshow I can 
always turn them on, but keep the amount pot at zero.

What is missing:
- I wanted the plexiglass pitch and modwheels with LEDs, that somebody 
have offered in the past. It seems that they are unobtainable now.
- I did consider one of those lovely new all-wooden cabinets, that you 
can have in several types of solid wood. I sent out some inquiries, 
but didn´t get any response, and my original cabinet is not that bad-
looking after all (a little nick in front under the keys and ever so 
slight damage at the rear, lower corners), so I am keeping the 
original cabinet for now.
- New bushings? The keyboard was quite clean and trigger fine, so no 
need for service there, but I might need to take it all apart, clean 
the contacts, take off all the keys and clean them, and install new 
bushings. Some day…

All-in-all, it was a lot of work to do it all. The drilling, cable 
stripping and pre-soldering, mounting, soldering and debugging was a 
bit of work, and the planning and thinking during the project also 
took a lot of time. However, it was all highly enjoyable work, and I 
now have
- a much better understanding of the Polysix in general
- a much better understanding of all the mods and changes involved
- a great-sounding and great-working polysynth!

Photos of the results are in the Yahoo group photo section, under 
"Polysix Modifications".


All the best,

Terje






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RE: KLM368a diod

2014-02-23 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Woooh, VCO-to-VCF mod!

Any details/schematics?

Yash

RE: KLM368a diod

2014-02-23 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Forgot that you actually sent lot of details on the mod prior to that, but if ever you have more info and schematics, there would be a lot of interest for sure.

It's fun you used switches for each Voice, because then, using the Arp with the switches becomes very, very interesting! Probably what we hear at the 5:00 mark or so in the Soundcloud clip?

Way to go!

Yash


Way to go, Terje

RE: KLM368a diod

2014-02-23 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

The switches with internal LEDs look very cool too, nice find.

Too bad I can't change the subject line of this thread (as people will still think we are talking about 'diods'. Haha.

Yash

Re: [PolySix] RE: KLM368a diod

2014-02-23 by Terje Winther

It's fun you used switches for each Voice, because then, using the Arp with the switches becomes very, very interesting! Probably what we hear at the 5:00 mark or so in the Soundcloud clip?

Yes, that is the arpeggioator with some voices being modulated by the VCO-to-VCF mod, while others are "normal".

Way to go!

Thanks!


Terje Winther

RE: KLM368a diod

2014-02-27 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

But I suppose you're not soldering chips one on to another, are you?

Yash

RE: KLM368a diod

2014-03-03 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Additional PCB it was as I re-read your description.

Re: Various Polysix modifications

2014-03-27 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Hi Terje,

Could you provide additional information as to how and where you installed the Mod Wheel switch to swap in your external LFO, please?

Thanks a lot.

Re: [PolySix] Re: Various Polysix modifications

2014-03-27 by Terje Winther

Yes, the LFO is produced on the processor board (lower right corner of the KLM-367 page in the service docs), and then travels to the front panel through a wire.
The LFO signal then travels across the front panel board (KLM-369) to various destinations, including the sockets with all the cables going to the pitch and mod wheels.
Locate the cable that is delivering the LFO signal TO the modwheel, cut it, and insert a switch here, so that you can choose between the original LFO signal and the extra added external LFO. You will need to lengthen the original cables to make them reach the front panel. You should also calculate, measure or adjust your external LFO´s output so that it matches the output of the original LFO.
If you set the switch to the "original" position, the original LFO will come through as you raise the mod-wheel.
If you set the switch to the "external" position, the external LFO will come through as you raise the mod-wheel.

As earlier explained: this will only work if you have the original processor board in your PolySix.
If you, like me, have the KiwiSix processor board, the modwheel does not carry the actual LFO signal; it only controls how much LFO signal the processor will mix into the VCO CV lines. It can still be useful, but not to the same extent. However: since I also have the KiwiSex modification kit installed, I also send the external LFO signal to the unused mod setting (PW LFO that is no longer directly awailable from the KiwiSix processor board). So all-in-all it is still very useful for me.

You will need to drill some holes in your PolySix, both for the switch and various controls for the external (extra) LFO. I only used a speed control pot and a bi-polar/bi-color LED, but you could install a MS-20-style LFO/MG with both speed and shape controls, in addition to a switch for square and triangle/sawtooth. Any LFO will do, actually, so you can use whatever suits you.

The LFO is actually secured to the front panel using pot brackets (I learned this from all the years of building Oakley Sound modules).

The external LFO and the switch is located the the left of the front panel, below the original LFO/MG, so that it is a close as possible to the modwheel.


Terje




 

Den 27. mars. 2014 kl. 16.49 skrev <josh.nursing@gmail.com> <josh.nursing@gmail.com>:

 

Hi Terje,


Could you provide additional information as to how and where you installed the Mod Wheel switch to swap in your external LFO, please?

Thanks a lot.



Re: KLM368a diod

2014-03-27 by <josh.nursing@gmail.com>

Thanks Terje, clever mod and nice little touches like the aligned MG2 LED there too in your front panel.

In the pics you graciously provided, I can also see a little white jumper wire on CN09-6 to CN09-3, basically connecting +5V to the LFO?

Re: [PolySix] Re: KLM368a diod

2014-03-27 by Terje Winther

Thanks Terje, clever mod and nice little touches like the aligned MG2 LED there too in your front panel.

Thanks.

In the pics you graciously provided, I can also see a little white jumper wire on CN09-6 to CN09-3, basically connecting +5V to the LFO?

That is part of the KiwiSix upgrade. Besides chaning the processor board completely, there are 2-3 other changes that needs to be done, and the small cables/jumpers is one of those.





Modysix - Midi retrofit and feature extension for Polysix and Poly-61

2014-04-29 by Tobias Münzer

Hi,

Hi, I would like to announce the second Tubbutec product, the Modysix.

It is a cpu replacement for Korg Polysix and Poly-61 synthesizers and offers a lot of additional functions, including:
  • Midi in + Midi out
  • Sustain Pedal input
  • Additional play modes: 2 Voice, 3 Voice, Polychord, extended unison mode
  • New arpeggiator / sequencer mode: Powerarp
  • All functions are easily accessible via buttons: suitable for live use
  • Midi controls arpeggiator clock, triggers the arp, filter and more
  • Midi output of arpeggiator, chords and powerarp sequences or simple keypresses
  • S/H style LFO for the filter
  • Midi channels and various other options can be configured without external tools
  • Very easy to install, no soldering required (except for one solder joint if you want midi controlled filter)
  • High quality midi sockets and sustain pedal jack
  • And more..

More infos here: http://tubbutec.de/modysix

Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O11RHvP7YnI