Discussion about the Korg PolySix synthesizer

I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i have inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to replace them or just re-solder?
And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR – K30A GR11) (under the board they are looking bad)
Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all this stuff if i need?
Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
Here is a pics of board

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list

The VRs look okay. Just a little excess flux on the bottom. These trimmers
are hand-soldered after the rest of the board is complete, so they do not
look as nice as the other solder but they should work okay. IC 31 is ugly.
Remove it and remove the socket it is in, and any excess solder and wires
that were added in the original repair attempt. Put in a new socket and
start checking connections on the data lines (D0 - D7). You can use the
ohm-meter part of your multimeter to check connections from IC31 to all
other chips that it is supposed to connect to. I do not think there is any
way to test IC 24 and 26 with a multimeter. You would need an oscilloscope
to see what is going on. If you need to replace them, the standard part
number is 4011. Always put any new chips in a socket.

Maybe you should describe to us what kind of problems you hear right now.

The Q1 pictures are not focused, so I can't tell if it looks bad. If you
have problems with the LFO (MG) after everything else is fixed, it may need
to be replaced.



Don Backshall



_____

From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
iorlovs
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:35 AM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [PolySix] Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair





I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i have
inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to
replace them or just re-solder?
And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR - K30A GR11) (under the board they are
looking bad)
Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all this
stuff if i need?
Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
Here is a pics of board

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "backshall1" <backshall1@...> wrote:

>
> The VRs look okay. Just a little excess flux on the bottom. These trimmers
> are hand-soldered after the rest of the board is complete, so they do not
> look as nice as the other solder but they should work okay. IC 31 is ugly.
> Remove it and remove the socket it is in, and any excess solder and wires
> that were added in the original repair attempt. Put in a new socket and
> start checking connections on the data lines (D0 - D7). You can use the
> ohm-meter part of your multimeter to check connections from IC31 to all
> other chips that it is supposed to connect to. I do not think there is any
> way to test IC 24 and 26 with a multimeter. You would need an oscilloscope
> to see what is going on. If you need to replace them, the standard part
> number is 4011. Always put any new chips in a socket.
>
> Maybe you should describe to us what kind of problems you hear right now.
>
> The Q1 pictures are not focused, so I can't tell if it looks bad. If you
> have problems with the LFO (MG) after everything else is fixed, it may need
> to be replaced.
>
>
>
> Don Backshall
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> iorlovs
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:35 AM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair
>
>
>
>
>
> I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i have
> inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
> Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
> IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to
> replace them or just re-solder?
> And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR - K30A GR11) (under the board they are
> looking bad)
> Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all this
> stuff if i need?
> Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
> Here is a pics of board
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I bought ic31 chip socket and chip so i going to change them and i will clean all board with Isopropyl alcohol spray.So i need remove all wires and check connections.At the moment i not going to change ic 26 and 26 they should be ok. At moment my synt are disassembled, cant check what it sound but was strange and the memory not working.thanks for reply, you helps me

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "backshall1" <backshall1@...> wrote:

>
> The VRs look okay. Just a little excess flux on the bottom. These trimmers
> are hand-soldered after the rest of the board is complete, so they do not
> look as nice as the other solder but they should work okay. IC 31 is ugly.
> Remove it and remove the socket it is in, and any excess solder and wires
> that were added in the original repair attempt. Put in a new socket and
> start checking connections on the data lines (D0 - D7). You can use the
> ohm-meter part of your multimeter to check connections from IC31 to all
> other chips that it is supposed to connect to. I do not think there is any
> way to test IC 24 and 26 with a multimeter. You would need an oscilloscope
> to see what is going on. If you need to replace them, the standard part
> number is 4011. Always put any new chips in a socket.
>
> Maybe you should describe to us what kind of problems you hear right now.
>
> The Q1 pictures are not focused, so I can't tell if it looks bad. If you
> have problems with the LFO (MG) after everything else is fixed, it may need
> to be replaced.
>
>
>
> Don Backshall
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> iorlovs
> Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:35 AM
> To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [PolySix] Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair
>
>
>
>
>
> I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i have
> inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
> Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
> IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to
> replace them or just re-solder?
> And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR - K30A GR11) (under the board they are
> looking bad)
> Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all this
> stuff if i need?
> Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
> Here is a pics of board
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

HI!
I have putted new socket and new ic31 chip,and repaired all bad tracks and cleaned klm 367a with isopropyl spray called Kontakt IPA. So now program buttons working correctly but its still weird sound from synth. I don't know what should i check now,where can be a problem?Maybe someone have detailed schemes of synth (I have Service manual) or someone know how to check boards for troubleshooting or maybe know weak places of Korg Polysix to tests them.There is a TEST switch on the KLM 367a, what is that,i can test the board with this switch?From where i should start and how to test?
Thanks a lot!

You will need to be more specific about 'weird'.

The service manual has the calibration procedure. Have you tried stepping
through that? As you go through the calibration procedure report back about
what isn't going correctly. Perhaps we can trouble shoot from there.

On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:45 PM, iorlovs <iorlovs@yahoo.com> wrote:

> **
>
>
>
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "backshall1" <backshall1@...> wrote:
> >
> > The VRs look okay. Just a little excess flux on the bottom. These
> trimmers
> > are hand-soldered after the rest of the board is complete, so they do not
> > look as nice as the other solder but they should work okay. IC 31 is
> ugly.
> > Remove it and remove the socket it is in, and any excess solder and wires
> > that were added in the original repair attempt. Put in a new socket and
> > start checking connections on the data lines (D0 - D7). You can use the
> > ohm-meter part of your multimeter to check connections from IC31 to all
> > other chips that it is supposed to connect to. I do not think there is
> any
> > way to test IC 24 and 26 with a multimeter. You would need an
> oscilloscope
> > to see what is going on. If you need to replace them, the standard part
> > number is 4011. Always put any new chips in a socket.
> >
> > Maybe you should describe to us what kind of problems you hear right now.
> >
> > The Q1 pictures are not focused, so I can't tell if it looks bad. If you
> > have problems with the LFO (MG) after everything else is fixed, it may
> need
> > to be replaced.
> >
> >
> >
> > Don Backshall
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of
> > iorlovs
> > Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:35 AM
> > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [PolySix] Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i
> have
> > inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
> > Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
> > IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to
> > replace them or just re-solder?
> > And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR - K30A GR11) (under the board they
> are
> > looking bad)
> > Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all
> this
> > stuff if i need?
> > Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
> > Here is a pics of board
> >
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> HI!
> I have putted new socket and new ic31 chip,and repaired all bad tracks and
> cleaned klm 367a with isopropyl spray called Kontakt IPA. So now program
> buttons working correctly but its still weird sound from synth. I don't
> know what should i check now,where can be a problem?Maybe someone have
> detailed schemes of synth (I have Service manual) or someone know how to
> check boards for troubleshooting or maybe know weak places of Korg Polysix
> to tests them.There is a TEST switch on the KLM 367a, what is that,i can
> test the board with this switch?From where i should start and how to test?
> Thanks a lot!
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Don an Jed are on the right track in their questions. I would just add a few observations:

1. You can test Q1 with your multimeter if you have a diode setting on it. You can test each compbination of pins. It will tell you whether the transistor is faulty or not.
------------------------
Red on B
Black on E - should read .5 - .9

Red on B
Black on C - should read .5 - .9

then reverse

Black on B
Red on E - should read OL

Black on B
Red on C - should read OL

but then, to be sure:

E > C = OL
C > E = OL
------------------------

2. Although Jed is completely right that we need more details, it's not totally unusual for the patches to go really weird after damage like this. Sometimes it's just he battery itself that has died and the memory has corrupted. Before you begin removing more and more parts, an early test would be to just create a new clean patch (after and a new battery install) and save it. See if it remains as expected. It at least gives you an audible result. It's nothing definitive but it will provide some easy hints.

Just to be picky, this is a JFET, so that would Drain-Gate-Source, not Emitter-Base-Collector. Also, depending on your meter, you might not get a display of 0L for the reverse directions. My meter on diode setting shows 1.533v when nothing is attached and continues to show this with Black on Gate and Red on either of the other two pins.
 
Don B.



________________________________
From: Boddington <f115@rocketmail.com>
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 3:50 PM
Subject: [PolySix] Re: Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair

 
Don an Jed are on the right track in their questions. I would just add a few observations:

1. You can test Q1 with your multimeter if you have a diode setting on it. You can test each compbination of pins. It will tell you whether the transistor is faulty or not.
------------------------
Red on B
Black on E - should read .5 - .9

Red on B
Black on C - should read .5 - .9

then reverse

Black on B
Red on E - should read OL

Black on B
Red on C - should read OL

but then, to be sure:

E > C = OL
C > E = OL
------------------------

2. Although Jed is completely right that we need more details, it's not totally unusual for the patches to go really weird after damage like this. Sometimes it's just he battery itself that has died and the memory has corrupted. Before you begin removing more and more parts, an early test would be to just create a new clean patch (after and a new battery install) and save it. See if it remains as expected. It at least gives you an audible result. It's nothing definitive but it will provide some easy hints.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Boddington" <f115@...> wrote:

>
> Don an Jed are on the right track in their questions. I would just add a few observations:
>
> 1. You can test Q1 with your multimeter if you have a diode setting on it. You can test each compbination of pins. It will tell you whether the transistor is faulty or not.
> ------------------------
> Red on B
> Black on E - should read .5 - .9
>
> Red on B
> Black on C - should read .5 - .9
>
> then reverse
>
> Black on B
> Red on E - should read OL
>
> Black on B
> Red on C - should read OL
>
> but then, to be sure:
>
> E > C = OL
> C > E = OL
> ------------------------
>
> 2. Although Jed is completely right that we need more details, it's not totally unusual for the patches to go really weird after damage like this. Sometimes it's just he battery itself that has died and the memory has corrupted. Before you begin removing more and more parts, an early test would be to just create a new clean patch (after and a new battery install) and save it. See if it remains as expected. It at least gives you an audible result. It's nothing definitive but it will provide some easy hints.
>

Thanks!
I tell to check transistors today.So i need create my own patch from front panel of synt?
Another thing that not all of the keys working, most of them not. I have cleaned them but result is same.I gave my synt to one good physicist but he is not musician so he need more information to test synt.Maybe i should take it back and record video with synt sounds and post it here to understand whats going on with it?

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Jed Jorgensen <jed.jorgensen@...> wrote:

>
> You will need to be more specific about 'weird'.
>
> The service manual has the calibration procedure. Have you tried stepping
> through that? As you go through the calibration procedure report back about
> what isn't going correctly. Perhaps we can trouble shoot from there.
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:45 PM, iorlovs <iorlovs@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "backshall1" <backshall1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The VRs look okay. Just a little excess flux on the bottom. These
> > trimmers
> > > are hand-soldered after the rest of the board is complete, so they do not
> > > look as nice as the other solder but they should work okay. IC 31 is
> > ugly.
> > > Remove it and remove the socket it is in, and any excess solder and wires
> > > that were added in the original repair attempt. Put in a new socket and
> > > start checking connections on the data lines (D0 - D7). You can use the
> > > ohm-meter part of your multimeter to check connections from IC31 to all
> > > other chips that it is supposed to connect to. I do not think there is
> > any
> > > way to test IC 24 and 26 with a multimeter. You would need an
> > oscilloscope
> > > to see what is going on. If you need to replace them, the standard part
> > > number is 4011. Always put any new chips in a socket.
> > >
> > > Maybe you should describe to us what kind of problems you hear right now.
> > >
> > > The Q1 pictures are not focused, so I can't tell if it looks bad. If you
> > > have problems with the LFO (MG) after everything else is fixed, it may
> > need
> > > to be replaced.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Don Backshall
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of
> > > iorlovs
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:35 AM
> > > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [PolySix] Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i
> > have
> > > inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
> > > Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
> > > IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to
> > > replace them or just re-solder?
> > > And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR - K30A GR11) (under the board they
> > are
> > > looking bad)
> > > Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all
> > this
> > > stuff if i need?
> > > Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
> > > Here is a pics of board
> > >
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > HI!
> > I have putted new socket and new ic31 chip,and repaired all bad tracks and
> > cleaned klm 367a with isopropyl spray called Kontakt IPA. So now program
> > buttons working correctly but its still weird sound from synth. I don't
> > know what should i check now,where can be a problem?Maybe someone have
> > detailed schemes of synth (I have Service manual) or someone know how to
> > check boards for troubleshooting or maybe know weak places of Korg Polysix
> > to tests them.There is a TEST switch on the KLM 367a, what is that,i can
> > test the board with this switch?From where i should start and how to test?
> > Thanks a lot!
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Calibration procedure its very difficult for me.Outsource i can ask my friend to do that because i think he can and he have oscilloscope.
But if synt is calibrated normally at this moment maybe there is no need to do that

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Boddington" <f115@...> wrote:

>
> Don an Jed are on the right track in their questions. I would just add a few observations:
>
> 1. You can test Q1 with your multimeter if you have a diode setting on it. You can test each compbination of pins. It will tell you whether the transistor is faulty or not.
> ------------------------
> Red on B
> Black on E - should read .5 - .9
>
> Red on B
> Black on C - should read .5 - .9
>
> then reverse
>
> Black on B
> Red on E - should read OL
>
> Black on B
> Red on C - should read OL
>
> but then, to be sure:
>
> E > C = OL
> C > E = OL
> ------------------------
>
> 2. Although Jed is completely right that we need more details, it's not totally unusual for the patches to go really weird after damage like this. Sometimes it's just he battery itself that has died and the memory has corrupted. Before you begin removing more and more parts, an early test would be to just create a new clean patch (after and a new battery install) and save it. See if it remains as expected. It at least gives you an audible result. It's nothing definitive but it will provide some easy hints.
>

And question!
Do i need to remove all traces of acid from pcb traces definitely,or i can leave them if they have connection?

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Boddington" <f115@...> wrote:

>
> Don an Jed are on the right track in their questions. I would just add a few observations:
>
> 1. You can test Q1 with your multimeter if you have a diode setting on it. You can test each compbination of pins. It will tell you whether the transistor is faulty or not.
> ------------------------
> Red on B
> Black on E - should read .5 - .9
>
> Red on B
> Black on C - should read .5 - .9
>
> then reverse
>
> Black on B
> Red on E - should read OL
>
> Black on B
> Red on C - should read OL
>
> but then, to be sure:
>
> E > C = OL
> C > E = OL
> ------------------------
>
> 2. Although Jed is completely right that we need more details, it's not totally unusual for the patches to go really weird after damage like this. Sometimes it's just he battery itself that has died and the memory has corrupted. Before you begin removing more and more parts, an early test would be to just create a new clean patch (after and a new battery install) and save it. See if it remains as expected. It at least gives you an audible result. It's nothing definitive but it will provide some easy hints.
>

How i can write in to memory of polysix manufacturers patches, and where i can find them?

Picky is good! Thank you for adding that. I should have double checked what was in Q1. I didn't have any docs or a Poly in front of me. My bad.

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, backshall1 <backshall1@...> wrote:
>
> Just to be picky, this is a JFET, so that would Drain-Gate-Source, not Emitter-Base-Collector. Also, depending on your meter, you might not get a display of 0L for the reverse directions. My meter on diode setting shows 1.533v when nothing is attached and continues to show this with Black on Gate and Red on either of the other two pins.
>  
> Don B.
>

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Jed Jorgensen <jed.jorgensen@...> wrote:

>
> You will need to be more specific about 'weird'.
>
> The service manual has the calibration procedure. Have you tried stepping
> through that? As you go through the calibration procedure report back about
> what isn't going correctly. Perhaps we can trouble shoot from there.
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 10:45 PM, iorlovs <iorlovs@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "backshall1" <backshall1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The VRs look okay. Just a little excess flux on the bottom. These
> > trimmers
> > > are hand-soldered after the rest of the board is complete, so they do not
> > > look as nice as the other solder but they should work okay. IC 31 is
> > ugly.
> > > Remove it and remove the socket it is in, and any excess solder and wires
> > > that were added in the original repair attempt. Put in a new socket and
> > > start checking connections on the data lines (D0 - D7). You can use the
> > > ohm-meter part of your multimeter to check connections from IC31 to all
> > > other chips that it is supposed to connect to. I do not think there is
> > any
> > > way to test IC 24 and 26 with a multimeter. You would need an
> > oscilloscope
> > > to see what is going on. If you need to replace them, the standard part
> > > number is 4011. Always put any new chips in a socket.
> > >
> > > Maybe you should describe to us what kind of problems you hear right now.
> > >
> > > The Q1 pictures are not focused, so I can't tell if it looks bad. If you
> > > have problems with the LFO (MG) after everything else is fixed, it may
> > need
> > > to be replaced.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Don Backshall
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of
> > > iorlovs
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 5:35 AM
> > > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [PolySix] Please HELP Korg Polysix KLM367a Repair
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I bought Korg polysix and want to replace ic31 chip and battery but i
> > have
> > > inspecting KLM 367a board and find bad things
> > > Do i need to replace VR1 to VR 7? (under the board they are looking bad)
> > > IC24 and IC 26 (HD14011BP) corrosion on the one of each legs,do i need to
> > > replace them or just re-solder?
> > > And GR is bad how i can see. (Q1 GR - K30A GR11) (under the board they
> > are
> > > looking bad)
> > > Just want to know what i should replace and where i can find to buy all
> > this
> > > stuff if i need?
> > > Maybe i can test all of them with multimeter?
> > > Here is a pics of board
> > >
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/1588581670/pic/list
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > HI!
> > I have putted new socket and new ic31 chip,and repaired all bad tracks and
> > cleaned klm 367a with isopropyl spray called Kontakt IPA. So now program
> > buttons working correctly but its still weird sound from synth. I don't
> > know what should i check now,where can be a problem?Maybe someone have
> > detailed schemes of synth (I have Service manual) or someone know how to
> > check boards for troubleshooting or maybe know weak places of Korg Polysix
> > to tests them.There is a TEST switch on the KLM 367a, what is that,i can
> > test the board with this switch?From where i should start and how to test?
> > Thanks a lot!
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

All of the calibration procedure was successful.Suspicion on 366 now.
Maybe somebody have scheme for keys?