Discussion about the Korg PolySix synthesizer

So, I got a KLM 367 in the mail last week and am planning on populating it sometime this week. (Thanks Jed!) If it's not too much trouble, I've got a few simple questions for everyone on this board:

1.) Is all of the part information up to date on Jed's page?  I am going to cut and paste the parts list - this will work?

2.) What are the major pitfalls I should look out for when populating and calibrating this thing?

3.) Are there any known issues that haven't been solved yet?  If there are, I'm going to wait.

4.) Calibration is the same as the service notes that have been floating around the net for the last few years?

5.) Was the corruption issue ever solved?  I remember reading about some folks swapping caps and pulling their hair out because of some sort of data corruption or stray capacitance?

6.) My board has Korg factory midi....  Has anyone replaced the KLM 367 with Factory MIDI?

-Mike

Mike,

1. As far as I am aware this is all up to date. I have a personal list I
work from and this has served me for over 10 boards. If you¹d rather work
from my copy then drop me a line, however, it is utterly reliant on supplies
from Farnell/Newark.
2. Make sure the mods round R53 and R92 are done. We have two missing
tracks. More details on Jed¹s site. Make sure C22 and C23 are both 10pF
3. No. I have over ten working
4. You can use the calibration notes from the original Korg service manual
without any issues 
5. You might be referring to the problem with C23/C23. Make sure they are
both 10pF. Again over 10 boards say Œyes¹ it is solved.
6. I am just about to add the MIDI kit to a P6 which has the clone board.
This kit is the one designed by Steinhauser/Wolf, which I gather is based on
the original ŒM¹ board. I will let you know how it goes!

Good luck with the build,
Andy


On 14/10/2010 09:42, "Mike" <mborish_2000@yahoo.com> wrote:

>  
>  
>  
>    
> 
> So, I got a KLM 367 in the mail last week and am planning on populating it
> sometime this week. (Thanks Jed!) If it's not too much trouble, I've got a few
> simple questions for everyone on this board:
> 
> 1.) Is all of the part information up to date on Jed's page?  I am going to
> cut and paste the parts list - this will work?
> 
> 2.) What are the major pitfalls I should look out for when populating and
> calibrating this thing?
> 
> 3.) Are there any known issues that haven't been solved yet?  If there are,
> I'm going to wait.
> 
> 4.) Calibration is the same as the service notes that have been floating
> around the net for the last few years?
> 
> 5.) Was the corruption issue ever solved?  I remember reading about some folks
> swapping caps and pulling their hair out because of some sort of data
> corruption or stray capacitance?
> 
> 6.) My board has Korg factory midi....  Has anyone replaced the KLM 367 with
> Factory MIDI?
> 
> -Mike
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Everything is up-to-date on my site.

Best of luck in your build!

Jed

On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 2:05 AM, Andrew Jury <andy@networkjabber.com> wrote:

>
>
> Mike,
>
> 1. As far as I am aware this is all up to date. I have a personal list I
> work from and this has served me for over 10 boards. If you�d rather work
> from my copy then drop me a line, however, it is utterly reliant on
> supplies
> from Farnell/Newark.
> 2. Make sure the mods round R53 and R92 are done. We have two missing
> tracks. More details on Jed�s site. Make sure C22 and C23 are both 10pF
> 3. No. I have over ten working
> 4. You can use the calibration notes from the original Korg service manual
> without any issues
> 5. You might be referring to the problem with C23/C23. Make sure they are
> both 10pF. Again over 10 boards say �yes� it is solved.
> 6. I am just about to add the MIDI kit to a P6 which has the clone board.
> This kit is the one designed by Steinhauser/Wolf, which I gather is based
> on
> the original �M� board. I will let you know how it goes!
>
> Good luck with the build,
> Andy
>
>
> On 14/10/2010 09:42, "Mike" <mborish_2000@yahoo.com<mborish_2000%40yahoo.com>>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > So, I got a KLM 367 in the mail last week and am planning on populating
> it
> > sometime this week. (Thanks Jed!) If it's not too much trouble, I've got
> a few
> > simple questions for everyone on this board:
> >
> > 1.) Is all of the part information up to date on Jed's page? I am going
> to
> > cut and paste the parts list - this will work?
> >
> > 2.) What are the major pitfalls I should look out for when populating and
> > calibrating this thing?
> >
> > 3.) Are there any known issues that haven't been solved yet? If there
> are,
> > I'm going to wait.
> >
> > 4.) Calibration is the same as the service notes that have been floating
> > around the net for the last few years?
> >
> > 5.) Was the corruption issue ever solved? I remember reading about some
> folks
> > swapping caps and pulling their hair out because of some sort of data
> > corruption or stray capacitance?
> >
> > 6.) My board has Korg factory midi.... Has anyone replaced the KLM 367
> with
> > Factory MIDI?
> >
> > -Mike
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

6.) My board has Korg factory midi.... Has anyone replaced the KLM 367 with
Factory MIDI?

I'm not 100% sure but I believe the original KLM367 had to be somewhat
modified for the Factory MIDI to work. So this may be true for the clone as
well.

IC 32 has been removed on the KLM-367.  That's about the only thing that I can tell so far.  My MIDI board says Korg USA, Made in USA and 67-0392.

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Malte Rogacki <gacki@...> wrote:

>
> 6.) My board has Korg factory midi.... Has anyone replaced the KLM 367 with
> Factory MIDI?
> 
> I'm not 100% sure but I believe the original KLM367 had to be somewhat
> modified for the Factory MIDI to work. So this may be true for the clone as
> well.
>

At 19:11 Uhr +0000 14.10.2010, Mike wrote:
> IC 32 has been removed on the KLM-367. That's about the only thing that I can
> tell so far. My MIDI board says Korg USA, Made in USA and 67-0392.

I have the PCB and instructions for a Johannes Hausensteiner kit here; the
instructions mention the following mandatory changes to KLM-367:

 B) On KLM-367:
          - Remove the  backup battery.  There is a  lithium battery on the
            new MIDI pcb you received.
          - Disable mute circuit during tape interface mode:
            - Cut pcb trace to IC5/pin3 directly at IC5/pin3 (solder side).
              Be sure not to damage the passing by pcb trace.
            - Connect IC5/pin3 to IC5/pin7.
          - Connection cable to MIDI pcb:
            - Solder the open ends of the supplied 10 way cable (drawing no
              PS 6M 00 05 004) to the respective  target points on KLM-367.
              Refer to drawing.

I also got the orginal midi-kit that can be seen in the photos-section on this list:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PolySix/photos/album/912066063/pic/1146772653/view?picmode=medium

I haven't replaced the orginal board but as far as I remember the differance is that IC32 is removed, some two or a few more cables are soldered on top of some pins on another IC and one IC removes entirely on the voiceboard.

/Kroffe, Stockholm, Sweden

--- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mborish_2000@...> wrote:

>
> IC 32 has been removed on the KLM-367.  That's about the only thing that I can tell so far.  My MIDI board says Korg USA, Made in USA and 67-0392.
> 
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com, Malte Rogacki <gacki@> wrote:
> >
> > 6.) My board has Korg factory midi.... Has anyone replaced the KLM 367 with
> > Factory MIDI?
> > 
> > I'm not 100% sure but I believe the original KLM367 had to be somewhat
> > modified for the Factory MIDI to work. So this may be true for the clone as
> > well.
> >
>