On 9/2/07, Johannes Hausensteiner <johau@gmx.net> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> > 1. are *all* the electrolites worth replacing?
> No, only those which are getting warm. Which ones are they? Usually
> those in power supplies. The more current, the more heat. The higher
> frequency the more heat.
>
> > 2. how on earth do you unsolder the main cpu socket (40pin i think)
> > without destroying all the vias? every IC i've unsoldered so far was a
> > tough job, unless i could clip the pins off.
> Either you have a (good quality) desoldering tool: solder iron with
> integrated vacuum sucker.
> Or you have a desoldering "tip" for you soldering iron: this has the
> size of the socket you want to desolder (DIL14, DIL16, DIL40, etc.). It
> melts ALL pins of the IC / IC socket at once.
> Or destroy the socket/IC and desolder each pin seperately.
>
> > 3. how do i go about with my apeggiator problem? where should i look?
> > just replace everything in its LED's path?
> The ARP has a separate oscillator, built around the 555 (KLM-371/IC1).
> Check the circuit of the 555. Download a data sheet from:
> http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/philips/NE_SA_SE555_C_2.pdf
> and read how it works.
>
> > 4. what wire should i use for repairing the traces? i want it to be
> > really thin and isolated.
> Take a wire used for "wire wrap" method. Take the thinnest you can get,
> e.g. 0.05mm2. Or take laquer (?) isolated wire like it is used inside
> transformers.
>
> > 5. what do you recommend for cleaning the board? acetone? alcohol?
> Alcohol. Acetone is too aggressive, it desolves the solder mask.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Johannes
>
>
> jure zitnik wrote:
> > hi guys, hi again.
> > a have a story and a few questions.
> >
> > a good year ago i bought a battery-leaked polysix and went through 2
> > synth repair services, just to end up fixing it myself. nobody could
> > fix it, after a month of being repaired troubles were still there. so
> > i opened it up, made the battery mod, located the few bad traces,
> > replaced 2 ICs and rewired the traces. and wow, it worked. it all
> > woked except for arpeggiator LED. it was always on. and a few bank and
> > patch LEDs were acting a bit funny too, but nothing serious.
> >
> > yesterday i found out the subosc switch doesn't work. i knew soon
> > after "repairing" the synth that the battery corrosion will continue
> > to eat up traces, i should have removed all the damaged ones. so i
> > opened up the beast, print out all the schematics i have and got to
> > work.
> >
> > after inspecting the schematics (and with the knowledge i acquired
> > since the last time) i found out that the arpeggio switch isn't even
> > connected to the programmer board (367).
> >
> > so... the questions:
> >
> > 1. are *all* the electrolites worth replacing?
> > 2. how on earth do you unsolder the main cpu socket (40pin i think)
> > without destroying all the vias? every IC i've unsoldered so far was a
> > tough job, unless i could clip the pins off.
> > 3. how do i go about with my apeggiator problem? where should i look?
> > just replace everything in its LED's path?
> > 4. what wire should i use for repairing the traces? i want it to be
> > really thin and isolated.
> > 5. what do you recommend for cleaning the board? acetone? alcohol?
> >
> > please guys, help me. i want to do this once and for all. it's my
> > favorite synth and i WILL make it work!
> >
> > cheers,
> > jure
> >
> >
> > PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
