Hi Simon,
I haven't needed to replace another bad photocoupler so I haven't had a
chance to try a VTL5C3. I also haven't noticed any problems with tuning with
the VTL5C2 so I don't think there is a big enough difference to cause any
trouble. It is important to note the wide variation of values used for R93,
depending on which replacement you use for the P1501. It is always best to
put in a 50K trimpot, set the tuning controls to mid-point, and set the
trimpot for best initial tuning.
As for "how" to do the replacement. I assume you are wondering how to put a
4-wire radial-lead component into a 6-pin DIP slot. Well, I guess it is
really a 5-pin slot, since pin 5 doesn't exist. Going counter-clockwise,
pins 1,2,3 go down the left side, and pins 4 and 6 go up the right side. Pin
5 is a blank space. Also, pin 3 is not connected to anything, so both old
and new components are really 4-pin devices.
On the P1501, the KLM-366 schematic shows that pins 1,2 are the anode and
cathode of the LED, and pins 4,6 are the photo-resistor. You'll need the
pin-out diagram for whatever part you are using as a replacement to see
which two wires are the LED and which are the resistor, and what the
polarity of the LED is. Once you are certain which wire goes where, heat up
the soldering iron and get to work.
Don B.
_____
From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Andrew Jury
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 5:09 AM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: Replacement for HTV P1501 photocoupler?
Hi,
I�ve always used the Siliconix NSL32 and a 39K resistor at position R93 and
got very good results. Best of all they sell then �off the shelf� at
Farnell, which considerably saves time in sourcing them.
Cheers,
Andy
On 10/05/2011 23:50, "ltern_te" <ninonine@xs4all.nl
<mailto:ninonine%40xs4all.nl> > wrote:
see
is
gil_we
wonder
better
M Ll
with the
it was
one of
(same
couple
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I haven't needed to replace another bad photocoupler so I haven't had a
chance to try a VTL5C3. I also haven't noticed any problems with tuning with
the VTL5C2 so I don't think there is a big enough difference to cause any
trouble. It is important to note the wide variation of values used for R93,
depending on which replacement you use for the P1501. It is always best to
put in a 50K trimpot, set the tuning controls to mid-point, and set the
trimpot for best initial tuning.
As for "how" to do the replacement. I assume you are wondering how to put a
4-wire radial-lead component into a 6-pin DIP slot. Well, I guess it is
really a 5-pin slot, since pin 5 doesn't exist. Going counter-clockwise,
pins 1,2,3 go down the left side, and pins 4 and 6 go up the right side. Pin
5 is a blank space. Also, pin 3 is not connected to anything, so both old
and new components are really 4-pin devices.
On the P1501, the KLM-366 schematic shows that pins 1,2 are the anode and
cathode of the LED, and pins 4,6 are the photo-resistor. You'll need the
pin-out diagram for whatever part you are using as a replacement to see
which two wires are the LED and which are the resistor, and what the
polarity of the LED is. Once you are certain which wire goes where, heat up
the soldering iron and get to work.
Don B.
_____
From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Andrew Jury
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 5:09 AM
To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PolySix] Re: Replacement for HTV P1501 photocoupler?
Hi,
I�ve always used the Siliconix NSL32 and a 39K resistor at position R93 and
got very good results. Best of all they sell then �off the shelf� at
Farnell, which considerably saves time in sourcing them.
Cheers,
Andy
On 10/05/2011 23:50, "ltern_te" <ninonine@xs4all.nl
<mailto:ninonine%40xs4all.nl> > wrote:
>Btw.
>
>
>
>
> Hi Don/ Andy and thanks for your advice and feedback,
>
> Maybe a dummy question but how does one replace the P1501 with a VTL5CX ?
> did anyone find out already if its better to use a VTL5C2 or VTL5C3<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrew
> replacement?
>
> Thanks for the answer(s) in advance.
>
> Simon
>
> --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
> Jury <andy@...> wrote:of
>> >
>> > Thanks Don,
>> >
>> > You advice and expertise are much appreciated! I shall have a bit more
>> anfor my
>> > experiment, but I am at least ending up with the playable instrument
>> > efforts rather than the sound of a piano that has been dropped out of atrimpot
>> > window!
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> > Andy
>> >
>> >
>> > On 27/07/2010 13:35, "longenough2002" <backshall1@...> wrote:
>> >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > > I tested this by setting VR1,2,3 to their midpoint, inserted a
>>> for R93point
>>> > > and adjusted the pot for best scaling. It seemed to be about 40
>>> > > something K. 39K was the closest I had, so that's what I used. Ifyou
>>> haveand
>>> > > more resistor choices (41K, 42K?) you might want to try one of those
see
>>> > > if you get better results, or even leave in a 50K trimmer.<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> > > Don B.
>>> > >
>>> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> , Andrewthe
>>> > > Jury <andy@> wrote:
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Hi,
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Just wanted to say that I have been getting on very well with
>>>>> > >> > Silonex / 39k resistor mod. The only problem is the tuning is abit
>>>>> > >> > critical towards the lower end of the keyboard. Apart from thatall
is
>>>>> > >> > well and I am on my fourth successful repair.from
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > Cheers,
>>>>> > >> > Andy
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > On 23 Jul 2010, at 16:31, "longenough2002" <backshall1@>
>>>>> > >> > wrote:
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > Shucks, just noticed a note in the "files" section
gil_we
>>>>>>> > >>> > > back in Oct 2007 where he replaced the p1501 with aVTL5C3. I
wonder
>>>>>>> > >>> > > if the lower temperature coefficient of the VTL5C3 makesit a
better
>>>>>>> > >>> > > choice than the VTL5C2 for the tuning circuit? Some day, Igotta
>>>>>>> > >>> > > read the rest of the stuff in there.<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>>>>> > >>> > > Don B.
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > > --- In PolySix@yahoogroups.com
>>>>>>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com> ,
M Ll
>>>>> > >>> <f115@> wrote:<mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > Thanks for the update!
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > ________________________________
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > From: longenough2002 <backshall1@>
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com
>>>>>>>>> <mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:PolySix%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > Sent: Sat, June 12, 2010 8:53:50 AMSame sort of
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > Subject: [PolySix] Re: Replacement for HTV P1501
>>>>>>>>> photocoupler?
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > Got another Polysix in the shop with tuning problems.
>>>>>>> > >>> > > thing with octaves "stretched" and it couldn't becorrected
with the
>>>>>>> > >>> > > trim pots. The diode side of the photocoupler tested bad,so
it was
>>>>>>> > >>> > > time to go shopping again. This time, I thought I wouldtry
one of
>>>>>>> > >>> > > the Vactrol parts, so I got a Vactec VTL5C2 from SmallBear
(same
>>>>>>> > >>> > > place I got the Silonex part). I replaced R93 with 22K (upfrom
>>>>>>> > >>> > > 4.7K) and it seems to be working very well, so now we havea
couple
>>>>>>> > >>> > > of choices for replacing the P1501.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > > Don B.
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > >
>>>>>>>>> > >>>> > > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>>>> > >>> > >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> >
>>>>> > >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>>>> > >> >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>> >
>
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
