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Moogslayer question

Moogslayer question

2004-01-27 by reidar@jorgensen.com

Hey all,

I got the Moogslayer info about a year ago, and now I've finally got around
to doing something about it. I dug out the docs that I downloaded, and
apart from the stuff from the 'official' moogslayer site (
http://synthmod.net/korg/moog_slayer), I've got a hand-drawn picture from
someone who has added a switch so that the moogslayer can be switched out,
and it returns to the factory settings.

My problem is that I can't remember where I got that picture, and I can't
find it on the net, and I have a question about it.

So I'll ask the question here - maybe one of you has done this mod.

The 'extended' moogslayer has two resistors that replace the pots VR2 and
VR5, in the 'switched-out' position, so the moogslayer mods are out of the
circuit. The instructions say to use resistors the same value as the two
pots, "which may be different on each single Poly800". My electronics
knowledge doesn't go far beyond using a soldering iron, so I'm not sure how
to ascertain the value of the pots. Can I just measure the resistance
between two of the three pins? Which two pins? Do I need to desolder them
first?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can email the photos, but I'm
reluctant to put it in the photos section until I find out where it comes
from, and if the mod is reliable.

Cheers,
Reidar





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Re: Moogslayer question

2004-01-27 by hockinfinger@yahoo.com

You'll probably need to take them out of the circuit to measure them.
Pots come in a few different configurations. The best way to tell the
value of a pot is to measure it with your ohmmeter 3 ways: 1-2, 2-3,
and 1-3. The pair with the greatest resistance is the actual value of
the pot. That is essentially a fixed resistance between those 2 pins,
the third pin connects a slider which varies the resistance between
it and the other two pins.
Looking at the photo, it seems as if the pin which connects the
slider on each pot(the original ones on the circuit board) was
bridged to one end of the fixed value. I wonder if the intent of
placing a fixed resitor in place of the pots was to use their factory
set value, or the max value? Anyone have any ideas?



--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, reidar@j... wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> I got the Moogslayer info about a year ago, and now I've finally
got around
> to doing something about it. I dug out the docs that I downloaded,
and
> apart from the stuff from the 'official' moogslayer site (
> http://synthmod.net/korg/moog_slayer), I've got a hand-drawn
picture from
> someone who has added a switch so that the moogslayer can be
switched out,
> and it returns to the factory settings.
>
> My problem is that I can't remember where I got that picture, and I
can't
> find it on the net, and I have a question about it.
>
> So I'll ask the question here - maybe one of you has done this mod.
>
> The 'extended' moogslayer has two resistors that replace the pots
VR2 and
> VR5, in the 'switched-out' position, so the moogslayer mods are out
of the
> circuit. The instructions say to use resistors the same value as
the two
> pots, "which may be different on each single Poly800". My
electronics
> knowledge doesn't go far beyond using a soldering iron, so I'm not
sure how
> to ascertain the value of the pots. Can I just measure the
resistance
> between two of the three pins? Which two pins? Do I need to
desolder them
> first?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can email the photos, but
I'm
> reluctant to put it in the photos section until I find out where it
comes
> from, and if the mod is reliable.
>
> Cheers,
> Reidar

Re: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question

2004-01-28 by OlGu

Maybe you mean attached picture?
Sorry for attaching to all other members, but it's not too big, so I think
it's ok...

You're both right, I just want to add:

It's not easy to remove the potis by soldering, maybe you have to cut the
legs. But as you cannot measure the resistance in-circuit and as you may
rotate the pots while removing them, it would be helpful to mark the
original position with a pen or something before starting your destroying
work. Then you can find the correct position again for measuring after
removing.

The constant resistors are exactly the same as the origin postition of the
pots - that's the factory position!
(Maybe you need more than one for each to meet the exact value. Or try to
measure some cheap ones: because of their tolerances there may be one that
fits best to your requested value. For example 485 ohm is not usual, but
you'll propably find a 470-named one that will fit to 485.

Good luck!

If you have further questions you can contact me.
If you have destroyed your headphone or amplifier or loudspeakers or even
your ears, then you know to be careful with "resonance" using the moog
slayer modification for the next time ....

Regards,

Olaf




----- Original Message -----
From: <hockinfinger@...>
To: <korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 8:57 PM
Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question


> You'll probably need to take them out of the circuit to measure them.
> Pots come in a few different configurations. The best way to tell the
> value of a pot is to measure it with your ohmmeter 3 ways: 1-2, 2-3,
> and 1-3. The pair with the greatest resistance is the actual value of
> the pot. That is essentially a fixed resistance between those 2 pins,
> the third pin connects a slider which varies the resistance between
> it and the other two pins.
> Looking at the photo, it seems as if the pin which connects the
> slider on each pot(the original ones on the circuit board) was
> bridged to one end of the fixed value. I wonder if the intent of
> placing a fixed resitor in place of the pots was to use their factory
> set value, or the max value? Anyone have any ideas?
>
>
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, reidar@j... wrote:
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I got the Moogslayer info about a year ago, and now I've finally
> got around
> > to doing something about it. I dug out the docs that I downloaded,
> and
> > apart from the stuff from the 'official' moogslayer site (
> > http://synthmod.net/korg/moog_slayer), I've got a hand-drawn
> picture from
> > someone who has added a switch so that the moogslayer can be
> switched out,
> > and it returns to the factory settings.
> >
> > My problem is that I can't remember where I got that picture, and I
> can't
> > find it on the net, and I have a question about it.
> >
> > So I'll ask the question here - maybe one of you has done this mod.
> >
> > The 'extended' moogslayer has two resistors that replace the pots
> VR2 and
> > VR5, in the 'switched-out' position, so the moogslayer mods are out
> of the
> > circuit. The instructions say to use resistors the same value as
> the two
> > pots, "which may be different on each single Poly800". My
> electronics
> > knowledge doesn't go far beyond using a soldering iron, so I'm not
> sure how
> > to ascertain the value of the pots. Can I just measure the
> resistance
> > between two of the three pins? Which two pins? Do I need to
> desolder them
> > first?
> >
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can email the photos, but
> I'm
> > reluctant to put it in the photos section until I find out where it
> comes
> > from, and if the mod is reliable.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reidar
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> korgpolyex-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

Re: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question

2004-01-28 by reidar@jorgensen.com

Yes, that's the picture! One of them anyway - I've got two, very similar,
but slightly different. By the way everybody, I've taken the first picture
out of this email, (if you want to see it, check Olaf's message) and I've
attached the other one.

So thanks for the advice, but I did the deed last night, desoldered the two
pots (Olaf's right - it wasn't easy!), being very careful not to rotate
them, and hopefully I didn't. But now I have another question.

The schematic that Olaf attached has the wires connected to the 'upper'
points of where the pots were. If we call these pins '2' (left) and '3'
(right), and the lower pin is '1', then this schematic uses resistors to
replace the full value of the pots, which in my Poly are 10kOhm and
100kOhm. The other schematic I have (attached) has the wires connected to
pins1 and 2 on VR5, and 1 and 3 on VR2. This makes more sense to me
because it would replace the values according to where the pots are set.
In my case, they are 3.8k and 44k.

So before I go and buy the components, what's the consensus? Do I buy 10k
and 100k, or 3.8k and 44k (or as close as I can get)?

And can anyone identify where these pictures came from???

Reidar






"OlGu"
<olgu@...> To: <korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com>
cc:
29/01/04 06:59 Subject: Re: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question
Please respond to
korgpolyex






Maybe you mean attached picture?
Sorry for attaching to all other members, but it's not too big, so I think
it's ok...

You're both right, I just want to add:

It's not easy to remove the potis by soldering, maybe you have to cut the
legs. But as you cannot measure the resistance in-circuit and as you may
rotate the pots while removing them, it would be helpful to mark the
original position with a pen or something before starting your destroying
work. Then you can find the correct position again for measuring after
removing.

The constant resistors are exactly the same as the origin postition of the
pots - that's the factory position!
(Maybe you need more than one for each to meet the exact value. Or try to
measure some cheap ones: because of their tolerances there may be one that
fits best to your requested value. For example 485 ohm is not usual, but
you'll propably find a 470-named one that will fit to 485.

Good luck!

If you have further questions you can contact me.
If you have destroyed your headphone or amplifier or loudspeakers or even
your ears, then you know to be careful with "resonance" using the moog
slayer modification for the next time ....

Regards,

Olaf




----- Original Message -----
From: <hockinfinger@...>
To: <korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 8:57 PM
Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question


> You'll probably need to take them out of the circuit to measure them.
> Pots come in a few different configurations. The best way to tell the
> value of a pot is to measure it with your ohmmeter 3 ways: 1-2, 2-3,
> and 1-3. The pair with the greatest resistance is the actual value of
> the pot. That is essentially a fixed resistance between those 2 pins,
> the third pin connects a slider which varies the resistance between
> it and the other two pins.
> Looking at the photo, it seems as if the pin which connects the
> slider on each pot(the original ones on the circuit board) was
> bridged to one end of the fixed value. I wonder if the intent of
> placing a fixed resitor in place of the pots was to use their factory
> set value, or the max value? Anyone have any ideas?
>
>
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, reidar@j... wrote:
> >
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I got the Moogslayer info about a year ago, and now I've finally
> got around
> > to doing something about it. I dug out the docs that I downloaded,
> and
> > apart from the stuff from the 'official' moogslayer site (
> > http://synthmod.net/korg/moog_slayer), I've got a hand-drawn
> picture from
> > someone who has added a switch so that the moogslayer can be
> switched out,
> > and it returns to the factory settings.
> >
> > My problem is that I can't remember where I got that picture, and I
> can't
> > find it on the net, and I have a question about it.
> >
> > So I'll ask the question here - maybe one of you has done this mod.
> >
> > The 'extended' moogslayer has two resistors that replace the pots
> VR2 and
> > VR5, in the 'switched-out' position, so the moogslayer mods are out
> of the
> > circuit. The instructions say to use resistors the same value as
> the two
> > pots, "which may be different on each single Poly800". My
> electronics
> > knowledge doesn't go far beyond using a soldering iron, so I'm not
> sure how
> > to ascertain the value of the pots. Can I just measure the
> resistance
> > between two of the three pins? Which two pins? Do I need to
> desolder them
> > first?
> >
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can email the photos, but
> I'm
> > reluctant to put it in the photos section until I find out where it
> comes
> > from, and if the mod is reliable.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Reidar
>
>
>
>
>
(See attached file: Poly800Moogslayer2.jpg)





****************************************************************
NOTICE - This message is intended only for the use of the
addressee named above and may contain privileged and
confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient
of this message you are hereby notified that you must not
disseminate, copy or take any action based upon it. If you
received this message in error please notify HIC immediately.
Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual
sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be
the views of HIC.
****************************************************************

Re: Moogslayer question

2004-01-29 by hockinfinger@yahoo.com

Ok, I finally found the pics everyone was talking about in the photos
section. Of the 2 hand-drawn schematics, one is much simpler. What is
the actual difference in the sound results of each? Is one strictly
for ex800 and the other for the poly800? Will either schematic do the
same thing? Please clarify if possible.

RE: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question

2004-01-29 by Bovadikov, Peter [NCSUS]

I had the basic freq/res mod done last year on my 800II. So is the only difference the use of 50k's instead on 100k's? If so can I just swap pots?



-----Original Message-----
From: hockinfinger@... [mailto:hockinfinger@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 8:07 AM
To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question


Ok, I finally found the pics everyone was talking about in the photos
section. Of the 2 hand-drawn schematics, one is much simpler. What is
the actual difference in the sound results of each? Is one strictly
for ex800 and the other for the poly800? Will either schematic do the
same thing? Please clarify if possible.



Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
korgpolyex-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Re: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question

2004-01-29 by reidar@jorgensen.com

Well done! So that's where I got the photos in the first place!

I'm going to do the mod this weekend. I'll let you know next week how it
went, which diagram I used and how it sounds.





hockinfinger@yaho
o.com To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
cc:
30/01/04 00:06 Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Moogslayer question
Please respond to
korgpolyex






Ok, I finally found the pics everyone was talking about in the photos
section. Of the 2 hand-drawn schematics, one is much simpler. What is
the actual difference in the sound results of each? Is one strictly
for ex800 and the other for the poly800? Will either schematic do the
same thing? Please clarify if possible.





Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
korgpolyex-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/








****************************************************************
NOTICE - This message is intended only for the use of the
addressee named above and may contain privileged and
confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient
of this message you are hereby notified that you must not
disseminate, copy or take any action based upon it. If you
received this message in error please notify HIC immediately.
Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual
sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be
the views of HIC.
****************************************************************