Korg Poly800/EX800 Users

Hi all,

Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
album (Dave's Poly 800).

I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
the C103 capacitor's polarity.

I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
works fine.

Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
bed right now!

Cheers,

Dave

Hi Dave!

THX 4 uploadin :) It's true. Use + on C103!

Anyway I've tried this mod with 100k pot and it's really nice. Some
say that it's really quiet mod but it's untrue. It's gettin a bit
quiet near 18dB but on 12 it's ok :D

----- Original Message -----

From: radek_tymecki

To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 2:13 PM

Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Schema for 12/24 dB filter cutoff slope mod: new file (JPG) and photo upload

Hi Dave!

THX 4 uploadin :) It's true. Use + on C103!

Anyway I've tried this mod with 100k pot and it's really nice. Some
say that it's really quiet mod but it's untrue. It's gettin a bit
quiet near 18dB but on 12 it's ok :D

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@...> wrote:

>
> Hi all,
>
> Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> album (Dave's Poly 800).
>
> I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> the C103 capacitor's polarity.
>
> I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> works fine.
>
> Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> bed right now!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave
>

Thank you dave. I wanted to do this mod since a long time, I have no
excuses now because your shema is quite clear.

Bernard

Hi all,

I'm a new member here, but certainly not new to the Poly 800 (I own two) or modding (I've done the Moogslayer mod on one of my machines).

I'm glad I found this particular thread. Before I became a member today, I found a 2003 thread regarding this mod by doing a Google search. It said to use the NEGATIVE lead of C103.

So last night, I excitedly got to work on the mod, wired it up exactly as instructed and got ... well, a big bunch of nothing. No sound at all. So, I had to replace C103 with a new 10uF cap (since I'd already cut the negative lead loose from the board), and the synth now works again.

Tonight, I'll try 'er again with the revised instructions. I may just replace C103 with a 10uF axial-lead capacitor (soldering in just the negative lead, of course) to make the job a bit easier. I'm eager to hear how this mod sounds!

Cheers to Dave for sharing the revised info (in 2007).

Aaron

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> album (Dave's Poly 800).
>
> I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> the C103 capacitor's polarity.
>
> I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> works fine.
>
> Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> bed right now!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave
>

Hi Mike,

Yes, I noticed that it was non-polarized when I was taking it out last night.

I assume that Dave came to that conclusion that it's a polarized cap because the PCB has a "+" where one of the leads solders into the board. But from the standpoint of wiring up the 12/24dB mod, the distinction is important, I think, because if you take the other lead -- the "negative" one -- and wire that one up to the switch, it won't work. So I guess he means simply that the lead that's stuck into the hole marked "+" is the one to use.

By the way, I replaced C103 with a polarized cap last night (soldering the positive lead into the hole marked "+" on the board), and everything's working fine. I guesss whether you use a polarized or non-polarized cap really isn't critical here.

Aaron

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@...> wrote:
>
> C103 is a non polarised electrolytic cap. It is not polarised and does not have a + or - pin. I am not sure how Dave came to the conclusion that the cap has a positive and negative side. But it doesn't.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: AARON <aaron3900@...>
> To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 2:25 PM
> Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Schema for 12/24 dB filter cutoff slope mod: new file (JPG) and photo uploaded
>
>
>  
> Hi all,
>
> I'm a new member here, but certainly not new to the Poly 800 (I own two) or modding (I've done the Moogslayer mod on one of my machines).
>
> I'm glad I found this particular thread. Before I became a member today, I found a 2003 thread regarding this mod by doing a Google search. It said to use the NEGATIVE lead of C103.
>
> So last night, I excitedly got to work on the mod, wired it up exactly as instructed and got ... well, a big bunch of nothing. No sound at all. So, I had to replace C103 with a new 10uF cap (since I'd already cut the negative lead loose from the board), and the synth now works again.
>
> Tonight, I'll try 'er again with the revised instructions. I may just replace C103 with a 10uF axial-lead capacitor (soldering in just the negative lead, of course) to make the job a bit easier. I'm eager to hear how this mod sounds!
>
> Cheers to Dave for sharing the revised info (in 2007).
>
> Aaron
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> > about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> > nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> > file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> > album (Dave's Poly 800).
> >
> > I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> > an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> > the C103 capacitor's polarity.
> >
> > I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> > works fine.
> >
> > Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> > schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> > feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> > bed right now!
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Dave
> >
>

So, just to be on the safe side, I did replace that polarized cap that I installed last night with an NP cap -- again, to be consistent with the original design.

I've got to say that I'm less than impressed with the 12dB mod. To my ear, it sets a lower cutoff frequency or something. Seems like the brilliant highs are missing. I hear more subtlety in 24dB mode. I think Korg got it right when it chose this over 12dB.

Just one man's opinion....

aaron

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Yes, I noticed that it was non-polarized when I was taking it out last night.
>
> I assume that Dave came to that conclusion that it's a polarized cap because the PCB has a "+" where one of the leads solders into the board. But from the standpoint of wiring up the 12/24dB mod, the distinction is important, I think, because if you take the other lead -- the "negative" one -- and wire that one up to the switch, it won't work. So I guess he means simply that the lead that's stuck into the hole marked "+" is the one to use.
>
> By the way, I replaced C103 with a polarized cap last night (soldering the positive lead into the hole marked "+" on the board), and everything's working fine. I guesss whether you use a polarized or non-polarized cap really isn't critical here.
>
> Aaron
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@> wrote:
> >
> > C103 is a non polarised electrolytic cap. It is not polarised and does not have a + or - pin. I am not sure how Dave came to the conclusion that the cap has a positive and negative side. But it doesn't.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: AARON <aaron3900@>
> > To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 2:25 PM
> > Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Schema for 12/24 dB filter cutoff slope mod: new file (JPG) and photo uploaded
> >
> >
> >  
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I'm a new member here, but certainly not new to the Poly 800 (I own two) or modding (I've done the Moogslayer mod on one of my machines).
> >
> > I'm glad I found this particular thread. Before I became a member today, I found a 2003 thread regarding this mod by doing a Google search. It said to use the NEGATIVE lead of C103.
> >
> > So last night, I excitedly got to work on the mod, wired it up exactly as instructed and got ... well, a big bunch of nothing. No sound at all. So, I had to replace C103 with a new 10uF cap (since I'd already cut the negative lead loose from the board), and the synth now works again.
> >
> > Tonight, I'll try 'er again with the revised instructions. I may just replace C103 with a 10uF axial-lead capacitor (soldering in just the negative lead, of course) to make the job a bit easier. I'm eager to hear how this mod sounds!
> >
> > Cheers to Dave for sharing the revised info (in 2007).
> >
> > Aaron
> >
> > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> > > about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> > > nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> > > file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> > > album (Dave's Poly 800).
> > >
> > > I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> > > an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> > > the C103 capacitor's polarity.
> > >
> > > I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> > > works fine.
> > >
> > > Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> > > schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> > > feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> > > bed right now!
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> >
>

Alright, disregard what I said below about the inferiority of the 12db filter. I got the two mixed up.

When I wired up the mod, I jotted down some notes about which color wire I attached to which pin. But when I wrote down the values of the pins, I reversed them. So I thought 24 was 12, and vice versa.

I can't believe how much better the 12dB filter sounds. Really amazing!

Aaron

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@...> wrote:
>
> So, just to be on the safe side, I did replace that polarized cap that I installed last night with an NP cap -- again, to be consistent with the original design.
>
> I've got to say that I'm less than impressed with the 12dB mod. To my ear, it sets a lower cutoff frequency or something. Seems like the brilliant highs are missing. I hear more subtlety in 24dB mode. I think Korg got it right when it chose this over 12dB.
>
> Just one man's opinion....
>
> aaron
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Yes, I noticed that it was non-polarized when I was taking it out last night.
> >
> > I assume that Dave came to that conclusion that it's a polarized cap because the PCB has a "+" where one of the leads solders into the board. But from the standpoint of wiring up the 12/24dB mod, the distinction is important, I think, because if you take the other lead -- the "negative" one -- and wire that one up to the switch, it won't work. So I guess he means simply that the lead that's stuck into the hole marked "+" is the one to use.
> >
> > By the way, I replaced C103 with a polarized cap last night (soldering the positive lead into the hole marked "+" on the board), and everything's working fine. I guesss whether you use a polarized or non-polarized cap really isn't critical here.
> >
> > Aaron
> >
> > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@> wrote:
> > >
> > > C103 is a non polarised electrolytic cap. It is not polarised and does not have a + or - pin. I am not sure how Dave came to the conclusion that the cap has a positive and negative side. But it doesn't.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: AARON <aaron3900@>
> > > To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 2:25 PM
> > > Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Schema for 12/24 dB filter cutoff slope mod: new file (JPG) and photo uploaded
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > > Hi all,
> > >
> > > I'm a new member here, but certainly not new to the Poly 800 (I own two) or modding (I've done the Moogslayer mod on one of my machines).
> > >
> > > I'm glad I found this particular thread. Before I became a member today, I found a 2003 thread regarding this mod by doing a Google search. It said to use the NEGATIVE lead of C103.
> > >
> > > So last night, I excitedly got to work on the mod, wired it up exactly as instructed and got ... well, a big bunch of nothing. No sound at all. So, I had to replace C103 with a new 10uF cap (since I'd already cut the negative lead loose from the board), and the synth now works again.
> > >
> > > Tonight, I'll try 'er again with the revised instructions. I may just replace C103 with a 10uF axial-lead capacitor (soldering in just the negative lead, of course) to make the job a bit easier. I'm eager to hear how this mod sounds!
> > >
> > > Cheers to Dave for sharing the revised info (in 2007).
> > >
> > > Aaron
> > >
> > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> > > > about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> > > > nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> > > > file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> > > > album (Dave's Poly 800).
> > > >
> > > > I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> > > > an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> > > > the C103 capacitor's polarity.
> > > >
> > > > I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> > > > works fine.
> > > >
> > > > Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> > > > schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> > > > feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> > > > bed right now!
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I've tried to find a decent demo of this filter mod. Seems any of the demo's on YouTube dont really sound all that different to me.

We could really use a good schematic pic of this mod.. isnt it basically a switch to choose one or the other outputs of the filter chip?

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@...> wrote:
>
> Alright, disregard what I said below about the inferiority of the 12db filter. I got the two mixed up.
>
> When I wired up the mod, I jotted down some notes about which color wire I attached to which pin. But when I wrote down the values of the pins, I reversed them. So I thought 24 was 12, and vice versa.
>
> I can't believe how much better the 12dB filter sounds. Really amazing!
>
> Aaron
>
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@> wrote:
> >
> > So, just to be on the safe side, I did replace that polarized cap that I installed last night with an NP cap -- again, to be consistent with the original design.
> >
> > I've got to say that I'm less than impressed with the 12dB mod. To my ear, it sets a lower cutoff frequency or something. Seems like the brilliant highs are missing. I hear more subtlety in 24dB mode. I think Korg got it right when it chose this over 12dB.
> >
> > Just one man's opinion....
> >
> > aaron
> >
> > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mike,
> > >
> > > Yes, I noticed that it was non-polarized when I was taking it out last night.
> > >
> > > I assume that Dave came to that conclusion that it's a polarized cap because the PCB has a "+" where one of the leads solders into the board. But from the standpoint of wiring up the 12/24dB mod, the distinction is important, I think, because if you take the other lead -- the "negative" one -- and wire that one up to the switch, it won't work. So I guess he means simply that the lead that's stuck into the hole marked "+" is the one to use.
> > >
> > > By the way, I replaced C103 with a polarized cap last night (soldering the positive lead into the hole marked "+" on the board), and everything's working fine. I guesss whether you use a polarized or non-polarized cap really isn't critical here.
> > >
> > > Aaron
> > >
> > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > C103 is a non polarised electrolytic cap. It is not polarised and does not have a + or - pin. I am not sure how Dave came to the conclusion that the cap has a positive and negative side. But it doesn't.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: AARON <aaron3900@>
> > > > To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 2:25 PM
> > > > Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Schema for 12/24 dB filter cutoff slope mod: new file (JPG) and photo uploaded
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >  
> > > > Hi all,
> > > >
> > > > I'm a new member here, but certainly not new to the Poly 800 (I own two) or modding (I've done the Moogslayer mod on one of my machines).
> > > >
> > > > I'm glad I found this particular thread. Before I became a member today, I found a 2003 thread regarding this mod by doing a Google search. It said to use the NEGATIVE lead of C103.
> > > >
> > > > So last night, I excitedly got to work on the mod, wired it up exactly as instructed and got ... well, a big bunch of nothing. No sound at all. So, I had to replace C103 with a new 10uF cap (since I'd already cut the negative lead loose from the board), and the synth now works again.
> > > >
> > > > Tonight, I'll try 'er again with the revised instructions. I may just replace C103 with a 10uF axial-lead capacitor (soldering in just the negative lead, of course) to make the job a bit easier. I'm eager to hear how this mod sounds!
> > > >
> > > > Cheers to Dave for sharing the revised info (in 2007).
> > > >
> > > > Aaron
> > > >
> > > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> > > > > about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> > > > > nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> > > > > file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> > > > > album (Dave's Poly 800).
> > > > >
> > > > > I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> > > > > an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> > > > > the C103 capacitor's polarity.
> > > > >
> > > > > I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> > > > > works fine.
> > > > >
> > > > > Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> > > > > schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> > > > > feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> > > > > bed right now!
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers,
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

I agree about the demos.

Here's a link to a good diagram on how to wire this up:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/photos/album/1191422315/pic/232712221/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

And here's a good picture showing how to solder the leads to the chip on the UNDERSIDE of the board:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/korgpolyex/photos/album/1191422315/pic/661099179/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

For the love of God, don't do what I tried to do initially and solder the leads directly to the legs of the chip. That doesn't work, trust me!

Aaron

--- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "bimmerfan222" <bperkins211@...> wrote:
>
> I've tried to find a decent demo of this filter mod. Seems any of the demo's on YouTube dont really sound all that different to me.
>
> We could really use a good schematic pic of this mod.. isnt it basically a switch to choose one or the other outputs of the filter chip?
>
> --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@> wrote:
> >
> > Alright, disregard what I said below about the inferiority of the 12db filter. I got the two mixed up.
> >
> > When I wired up the mod, I jotted down some notes about which color wire I attached to which pin. But when I wrote down the values of the pins, I reversed them. So I thought 24 was 12, and vice versa.
> >
> > I can't believe how much better the 12dB filter sounds. Really amazing!
> >
> > Aaron
> >
> >
> > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@> wrote:
> > >
> > > So, just to be on the safe side, I did replace that polarized cap that I installed last night with an NP cap -- again, to be consistent with the original design.
> > >
> > > I've got to say that I'm less than impressed with the 12dB mod. To my ear, it sets a lower cutoff frequency or something. Seems like the brilliant highs are missing. I hear more subtlety in 24dB mode. I think Korg got it right when it chose this over 12dB.
> > >
> > > Just one man's opinion....
> > >
> > > aaron
> > >
> > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "AARON" <aaron3900@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Mike,
> > > >
> > > > Yes, I noticed that it was non-polarized when I was taking it out last night.
> > > >
> > > > I assume that Dave came to that conclusion that it's a polarized cap because the PCB has a "+" where one of the leads solders into the board. But from the standpoint of wiring up the 12/24dB mod, the distinction is important, I think, because if you take the other lead -- the "negative" one -- and wire that one up to the switch, it won't work. So I guess he means simply that the lead that's stuck into the hole marked "+" is the one to use.
> > > >
> > > > By the way, I replaced C103 with a polarized cap last night (soldering the positive lead into the hole marked "+" on the board), and everything's working fine. I guesss whether you use a polarized or non-polarized cap really isn't critical here.
> > > >
> > > > Aaron
> > > >
> > > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, Michael Hawkins <korgpolyex800@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > C103 is a non polarised electrolytic cap. It is not polarised and does not have a + or - pin. I am not sure how Dave came to the conclusion that the cap has a positive and negative side. But it doesn't.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: AARON <aaron3900@>
> > > > > To: korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 2:25 PM
> > > > > Subject: [korgpolyex] Re: Schema for 12/24 dB filter cutoff slope mod: new file (JPG) and photo uploaded
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >  
> > > > > Hi all,
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm a new member here, but certainly not new to the Poly 800 (I own two) or modding (I've done the Moogslayer mod on one of my machines).
> > > > >
> > > > > I'm glad I found this particular thread. Before I became a member today, I found a 2003 thread regarding this mod by doing a Google search. It said to use the NEGATIVE lead of C103.
> > > > >
> > > > > So last night, I excitedly got to work on the mod, wired it up exactly as instructed and got ... well, a big bunch of nothing. No sound at all. So, I had to replace C103 with a new 10uF cap (since I'd already cut the negative lead loose from the board), and the synth now works again.
> > > > >
> > > > > Tonight, I'll try 'er again with the revised instructions. I may just replace C103 with a 10uF axial-lead capacitor (soldering in just the negative lead, of course) to make the job a bit easier. I'm eager to hear how this mod sounds!
> > > > >
> > > > > Cheers to Dave for sharing the revised info (in 2007).
> > > > >
> > > > > Aaron
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In korgpolyex@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Bowman" <davidmochen@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hi all,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Having been requested by a member of this NG to provide some details
> > > > > > about the 12/24 mod (which of course I didn't happen to create, but
> > > > > > nevertheless managed to implement succesfully), I just uploaded a jpg
> > > > > > file to the Files section and a photo to the Photos section in my
> > > > > > album (Dave's Poly 800).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I hope this may be of help, since the mod's description featured in
> > > > > > an older post, though useful, unfortunately has a mistake as regards
> > > > > > the C103 capacitor's polarity.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I performed the mod exactly as is described in the pic/file, and it
> > > > > > works fine.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Sorry for the spellcheck lines under the words... I created the
> > > > > > schematic using Microsoft Word and forgot to turn the autospell
> > > > > > feature off... it's late here in Argentina and I should collapse in
> > > > > > bed right now!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Cheers,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dave
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>