QTR-Quadtone RIP

I'd be doubtful that QTR would get a significantly more solid black, but 
that may not be what you need!
Have you tried other colours to see if they are better at blocking the 
ultraviolet?
You might also try the PDNPrint group for advice/ideas - they're not 
trying to print cicuit boards, but trying to create negatives for old 
photographic processes, many of which are primarily ultraviolet sensitive.


On 10/12/2013 10:00, beefyzee@... wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
>
> I've never heard of qtr before, and have became a little excited now 
> that I have.
>
> My need is just one thing, to print solid opaque black on transparent 
> inkjet film. I won't be dealing with halftones or anything, just solid 
> black to block UV light.
>
> I this what QTR can be used for with the printers it works with.
> ...
>
> 

-- 
mike finley photography
http://www.mikefinley.co.uk
http://words.mikefinley.co.uk

Mike,

We manufacture a very dense opaque black ink that was originally designed for the Piezography backlit process in which the black needed to block out light. This ink, because it is very dense is useful now to Piezographers as a dual matte black/photo black. We sell most of this ink to silkscreen printers who wish to use the Epson driver to make opaque film. It can also be used with QTR. The ink we now call Piezography Warm Neutral Shade 1 opaque photo black and you can find it here:

http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.362672/it.A/id.6109/.f?sc=15&category=39578

With the Piezography process we use this ink only sparingly in our shadows preferring to use four ink shades in total to define shadow detail. For your process, you could use only this one ink in order to achieve a OD of 3.0 or higher.

Not that it matters, but it is also exceedingly light fast because it is pure carbon. The density comes from an experimental grind in which particles are much finer than would normally be required for jetting. The end result is a greater amount of opacity.

regards,

Jon Cone
Piezography

--- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, Mike Finley <mike.finley@...> wrote:

>
> I'd be doubtful that QTR would get a significantly more solid black, but 
> that may not be what you need!
> Have you tried other colours to see if they are better at blocking the 
> ultraviolet?
> You might also try the PDNPrint group for advice/ideas - they're not 
> trying to print cicuit boards, but trying to create negatives for old 
> photographic processes, many of which are primarily ultraviolet sensitive.
> 
> 
> On 10/12/2013 10:00, beefyzee@... wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> >
> > I've never heard of qtr before, and have became a little excited now 
> > that I have.
> >
> > My need is just one thing, to print solid opaque black on transparent 
> > inkjet film. I won't be dealing with halftones or anything, just solid 
> > black to block UV light.
> >
> > I this what QTR can be used for with the printers it works with.
> > ...
> >
> > 
> 
> -- 
> mike finley photography
> http://www.mikefinley.co.uk
> http://words.mikefinley.co.uk
>

I found out about this software from Keith's post on the DipTrace forum. I'm also the moderator on Homebrew_PCBs (about making printed circuit boards from many different processes) and Inkjet_PCB_Construction (about using inkjet printers to print resist patterns directly onto blank PCBs).

As far as UV blocking goes, from what I've seen from numerous discussions, it depends on the specific inkset you are using. But often, the color inks block UV better. Possibly because they are more light sensitive than black inks, and maybe the manufacturer added UV blockers?

Steve Greenfield AE7HD

--- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, Mike Finley <mike.finley@...> wrote:

>
> I'd be doubtful that QTR would get a significantly more solid black, but 
> that may not be what you need!
> Have you tried other colours to see if they are better at blocking the 
> ultraviolet?
> You might also try the PDNPrint group for advice/ideas - they're not 
> trying to print cicuit boards, but trying to create negatives for old 
> photographic processes, many of which are primarily ultraviolet sensitive.
> 
> 
> On 10/12/2013 10:00, beefyzee@... wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> >
> > I've never heard of qtr before, and have became a little excited now 
> > that I have.
> >
> > My need is just one thing, to print solid opaque black on transparent 
> > inkjet film. I won't be dealing with halftones or anything, just solid 
> > black to block UV light.
> >
> > I this what QTR can be used for with the printers it works with.
> > ...
> >
> > 
> 
> -- 
> mike finley photography
> http://www.mikefinley.co.uk
> http://words.mikefinley.co.uk
>

Sandy,

thanks for that input, great info. I've done a lot of Googling on this matter and this has led me to quite a few screenprinting forums. It always seems to be the same story: as far as non-dedicated inks go, the guys get the most opaque prints using genuine Epson black. However I don't recall any of them differentiating between M & P. After that the main inks used are the dedicated screen printing inks like Black Max and others, which are supposed to be very fast drying and absolutely loaded with UV blocking pigment.

G McCurdy,

when I first started on this PCB venture a couple of months ago, I bought a mono laser printer and it was useless. Lots and lots of Googling and I realised only a few were getting good enough results with a laser. It seems very brand/model dependant.

I came to learn that all the screenprinters were using inkjet with either genuine epson black ink (or dedicated screenprinting ink) + rip software which made the printer lay down much more ink. The other important factor was the inkjet transparency used. Any inkjet transparency just won't cut it. The guys seem to get greatly improved results using the transparencies dedicated to making film positives. They all seem to say one thing though, inkjet is the only way to get very opaque prints (providing the recipe is right).

I tried my Epson TX810FW and the first attempt was terrible. Back to mind numbing Googling and learning about print driver settings and I eventually ended up was a much darker/denser and uniform laydown of ink, but I still had to use 2 stacked films. That led me to the path I'm on now. The hardest part I'm finding is getting hold of the 2nd hand printers QTR supports.

Keith.