Homebrew PCBs

This came flying in on another group of which I am a member:

Has anyone had any dealings with them or know anything about them, the
prices seem *very good*:
------------------
Hi all 

We provide high quality yet very cheap PCB prototyping service: Only $50
to have 5 pcs of high quality pcb, with solder mask and silk screen. We
are definetly the best choices for students and hobbists. But we are
also top suppliers for industry: 

capability up to 40 layers 
3mil track/space 
blind & buried vias 

If there's anything we can do please feel free to contact me by sending
email to sales@... or visit our website: http://www.ezpcb.com 
--------------------------------------

7&3 fer nw,
KE5CTY (old calls WB5ZQU - WY5L)
http://www.qsl.net/ke5cty/
Code may be dying but the pioneering spirit that put the code there in
the first place is still going strong.

On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 17:46:26 +0200, KE5CTY Bob <rtnmi@...> wrote:

> This came flying in on another group of which I am a member:
> Has anyone had any dealings with them or know anything about them, the
> prices seem *very good*:


They have posted an ad here too, and are responding on list to questions  
which is a very good sign.
No personal experience tho. let the list know if you try.

ST

Um... it came "flying in" here a few days ago, too. ;')

Have you looked in the Links area here yet? I went to some trouble to
set it up. There is a Commercial folder there with EZPCB and many
other suppliers.

Steve Greenfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "KE5CTY Bob" <rtnmi@s...> wrote:

> This came flying in on another group of which I am a member:
> 
> Has anyone had any dealings with them or know anything about them, the
> prices seem *very good*:
> ------------------
> Hi all 
> 
> We provide high quality yet very cheap PCB prototyping service: Only $50
> to have 5 pcs of high quality pcb, with solder mask and silk screen. We
> are definetly the best choices for students and hobbists. But we are
> also top suppliers for industry: 
> 
> capability up to 40 layers 
> 3mil track/space 
> blind & buried vias 
> 
> If there's anything we can do please feel free to contact me by sending
> email to sales@e... or visit our website: http://www.ezpcb.com 
> --------------------------------------
> 
> 7&3 fer nw,
> KE5CTY (old calls WB5ZQU - WY5L)
> http://www.qsl.net/ke5cty/
> Code may be dying but the pioneering spirit that put the code there in
> the first place is still going strong.

Hi,

I'm very frustrated with my etcher.
I have bought a very expensive bubbler hose, flexible, black, for finally  
generating a even curtain of tiny bubbles.
Well, the first day when i insalled and tried it it worked nicely. But  
now, after weeks of disuse, only very few pores will create bubbles and i  
am back in the land of extremely uneven etching where i was months ago  
with my simple plastic hose with holes punched in it. I do think my pump  
does not deliver enough air, but i'm not sure if i should buy a bigger  
one, as they are expensive and i might just find it does not work at all  
again.

So please, if anyone has a long-term working bubbler system in CuCl  
provide data on the Bubbler and on the pump. thanks a lot.

Luckily today i make boards with only brutish traces (none smaller 1mm),  
so it does not matter.

ST

making boards today, working very well with high-temp silicone now.

But there is a problem, the red silicone does not allow light to pass so i  
have a hard time aligning 2 sides, any ideas?
I do not think i have ever seen transparent high-temp silicone?
I could punch two holes or something, but it doesn't appear a practical  
solution.
Can't show you pictures of the boards as i am not free to show them.

The process i found most working:
Spread enough silicone to get a even, glossy layer, not paper coming  
through. easy to do with sqeegee, does not matter if it is slightly more  
somewhere so no spacers required.
Dry until cured, used it after about an hour today with good results.
DO NOT leave lying around for days, the dust will come and settle on the  
silicone. stack and cover when cured.

After fusing let cool to make sure toner is hard and peel off.

using thin layer (paper coming through) will not allow cold peel without  
rippig toner off, and hot peel is problematic as although all toner comes  
off it disturbs the toner layer and you get pitting etc. It will be ok for  
legend tho.

What about the cooks here using the kitchen parchment paper, any news, any  
results?

Now i must go and look after the board, it is about due to be ready.

ST