Homebrew PCBs

Hi Fellows:
 
Found you guys through a query on another group (QRP-L) that I am a
member of.
 
I am new to the list but have been in Electronics and Ham radio since
1965 and worked in a communications lab for quiet a while at SW Research
Institute. Therefore I know I don't know it all and am teachable. I do
have a general sense for what is going on, just not the specifics to
implement yet.
 
I have laid out many a board, run the ovens, temperature controlled
solder flow machines, the agitators and so forth for use with Mil-Spec
work ect.
 
 I know all the knobs to turn temperature read-outs to look for and the
timings for most types of double verses - single verses - triple layer
boards and the procedures to operate all of the "proper" equipment, but
have never done one without the expensive equipment working in a
research environment provided.
 
 So this is a whole different world.
 
Although the theories I am reading about in your procedures make perfect
sense there are still some missing links to tie up and a few mind sets
concerning quality to over come.
 
 So here I am now wanting to do my own at home and learn from you guys
about how it is accomplished, but with as much precision and quality as
possible.
 
I have a two HP printers - One is a HP DeskJet 712C - the other is one a
friend has given me recently which is a old HP Series II Black and White
Laser printer. I also have a Panasonic Plain Paper Fax Copier which uses
a roller for the ink.
 
Now after reading and looking at most of the files after joining and
looking at the graphics of the CAD/CAM systems in the file and link area
I decided on using "Express PCB" and have installed it on my system,
probably will get into "Eagle" once I get the hang of the board building
procedures themselves.
 
I have my first board laid out (just a little simple keyer to start
with) before I tackle the receivers, transceivers and attenuators, dip
meters and filter boards, ect that I plan on doing and have on order
some single side blank PCBs along with a few parts from a surplus
distributor.
 
The question now lies in which method should I use -
The print inkjet and then copier method or the direct laser printer
method?
The "oven method" or the "iron on method"?
Does either have more consistency over the other?
Does either produce better results at lower temps?
What is the best chemical etchant to use with our homebrew stuff vs.
what I am used to in the machines which make their own "special" ready
mixed brand.
 
I have read so much I guess I have read myself into a quandary.
 
7&3 fer nw,
KE5CTY (old calls WB5ZQU - WY5L)
http://www.qsl.net/ke5cty/
Code may be dying but the pioneering spirit that put the code there in
the first place is still going strong.

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 23:30:36 +0200, KE5CTY Bob <rtnmi@...> wrote:

>
> The "oven method" or the "iron on method"?
> Does either have more consistency over the other?
> Does either produce better results at lower temps?
> What is the best chemical etchant to use with our homebrew stuff vs.
> what I am used to in the machines which make their own "special" ready
> mixed brand.


iron has terrible consistency, laminator ir fuser is worlds better.

best etchant IMO is CuCl (see links), as it is easy to regenerate and very  
cheap.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "KE5CTY Bob" <rtnmi@s...> wrote:
> Hi Fellows:
>  
> Found you guys through a query on another group (QRP-L) that I am a
> member of.

Welcome to the list!

> Now after reading and looking at most of the files after joining and
> looking at the graphics of the CAD/CAM systems in the file and link area
> I decided on using "Express PCB" and have installed it on my system,
> probably will get into "Eagle" once I get the hang of the board building
> procedures themselves.

Can you print a board from Express PCB? I thought they had it rigged
so you could only print a proof or something.

> The question now lies in which method should I use -
> The print inkjet and then copier method or the direct laser printer
> method?

Depends on your laser printer, that seems like the least convoluted
method. I think 600dpi is regarded as the lower limit of laser printer
resolution for toner transfer. And of course the toner in your laser
printer must transfer to the PCB effectively. If not, then you can try
the inkjet print and copier.

If you use the inkjet printer and copier, use good paper in the
inkjet. Using plain or "general purpose inkjet" paper may result in
distorted small traces, as the ink tends to follow the fibers. Photo
or High Resolution paper has a clay coating that has a uniform
surface. Higher contrast and less bleeding, and less random bleeding
as there are no paper fibers exposed for the ink to bleed along.

> The "oven method" or the "iron on method"?

You may be confusing the oven method of -soldering- with using an iron
for Toner Transfer.

Or do you mean the method someone mentioned of clamping the blank PCB
and print between metal plates and placing it in your oven? That
should be better than using an iron, as the iron has holes, is not
flat, and is hard to push with uniform pressure. I'd think a laminator
would be easier but it does require some modifications unless you only
use the really thin PCBs.

Steve Greenfield

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "KE5CTY Bob" <rtnmi@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2005 10:30 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Which Printer


> Hi Fellows:
>
> Found you guys through a query on another group (QRP-L) that I am a
> member of.
>
> I am new to the list but have been in Electronics and Ham radio since
> 1965 and worked in a communications lab for quiet a while at SW Research
> Institute. Therefore I know I don't know it all and am teachable. I do
> have a general sense for what is going on, just not the specifics to
> implement yet.
>
> I have laid out many a board, run the ovens, temperature controlled
> solder flow machines, the agitators and so forth for use with Mil-Spec
> work ect.
>
> I know all the knobs to turn temperature read-outs to look for and the
> timings for most types of double verses - single verses - triple layer
> boards and the procedures to operate all of the "proper" equipment, but
> have never done one without the expensive equipment working in a
> research environment provided.
>
> So this is a whole different world.
>
> Although the theories I am reading about in your procedures make perfect
> sense there are still some missing links to tie up and a few mind sets
> concerning quality to over come.
>
> So here I am now wanting to do my own at home and learn from you guys
> about how it is accomplished, but with as much precision and quality as
> possible.
>
> I have a two HP printers - One is a HP DeskJet 712C - the other is one a
> friend has given me recently which is a old HP Series II Black and White
> Laser printer. I also have a Panasonic Plain Paper Fax Copier which uses
> a roller for the ink.
>
> Now after reading and looking at most of the files after joining and
> looking at the graphics of the CAD/CAM systems in the file and link area
> I decided on using "Express PCB" and have installed it on my system,
> probably will get into "Eagle" once I get the hang of the board building
> procedures themselves.
>
> I have my first board laid out (just a little simple keyer to start
> with) before I tackle the receivers, transceivers and attenuators, dip
> meters and filter boards, ect that I plan on doing and have on order
> some single side blank PCBs along with a few parts from a surplus
> distributor.
>
> The question now lies in which method should I use -
> The print inkjet and then copier method or the direct laser printer
> method?
> The "oven method" or the "iron on method"?
> Does either have more consistency over the other?
> Does either produce better results at lower temps?
> What is the best chemical etchant to use with our homebrew stuff vs.
> what I am used to in the machines which make their own "special" ready
> mixed brand.
>
> I have read so much I guess I have read myself into a quandary.

I get very good results with positive resist PCB material by printing a 
transparency onto tracing paper using a laser printer, UV exposure with a 
simple home-made exposure unit, development in sodium hydroxide solution and 
etching in ferric chloride.

73, Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leon.heller@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller 

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