Yahoo Groups archive

Homebrew PCBs

Index last updated: 2026-04-28 23:05 UTC

Thread

Laser Toner Transfer Newbie Seeks Assistance

Laser Toner Transfer Newbie Seeks Assistance

2005-06-07 by alterscape2002

Hi All,
  I'm getting started etching my own boards using laser toner transfer
onto inkjet photo paper as described around the web.  I prepared and
printed my artwork on Staples "photo basic gloss" paper. (Staples Item
#471861, UPC 7-18103-02856-1) with an HP Laserjet III.  I'm using
Ratshack double-sided copper-clad PCB, which I cut to size using the
bandsaw in my shop. I cleaned the board with both a brillo-style
sponge-pad and steel wool with soap, then rinsed it with rubbing
alcohol.  I cut the board artwork to size, taped it down at the edges,
and set it on a 2x6, placed a piece of "regular" printer paper on top,
then bore down with the iron for about 6 minutes, repositioning every
2 minutes to make sure none of the steam-holes interfered.

I soaked the board under running hot water for about 10 minutes.  It
puffed up a bit but remained stuck where the toner had been, which I
took as a good sign.  I tried soaking it in a bowl of hot water for
~20 minutes while I took a walk around the neighborhood, and returned,
to find it still stuck firmly in place.  I then tried to seperate the
layers of the paper with my fingernails, and successfully got some of
the thickness of the paper free.  I then started rubbing at what was
left with a fingernail, and got most of it free, leaving most of the
artwork.  A few traces pulled up, however.  I cleaned the board and
tried again with another -- same problem.

Can anyone suggest where I might have gone wrong?  I'm guessing
paper-choice might be an issue.  The traces were all 0.016" width, and
I'm pretty sure I ironed it enough to get the toner more or less
melted onto the copper.

Any assistance, thoughts, etc, would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Ryan Spicer.

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Laser Toner Transfer Newbie Seeks Assistance

2005-06-07 by Stefan Trethan

On Tue, 07 Jun 2005 04:11:45 +0200, alterscape2002  
<finitysedge@...> wrote:

> Hi All,
>   I'm getting started etching my own boards using laser toner transfer
> onto inkjet photo paper as described around the web.  I prepared and
> printed my artwork on Staples "photo basic gloss" paper. (Staples Item
> #471861, UPC 7-18103-02856-1) with an HP Laser....


You shouldn't use the bandsaw with glassfiber/epoxy board, it will be dull  
already.

6 minutes ironing sounds like a long time to me. Missing places could be  
 from improper cleaning, or the ironing.

I would get a laminator or fuser, the ironing process is very hard to  
debug and get repeatable, IMO.

You wrote you clean the board with soap and alcohol, what i would try is  
clean the board as follows:
Use 600 or 100 grit sandpaper, or fine steel wool, to lightly sand the  
board (dry). then wipe the dust off, put some alcohol on a paper towel and  
wipe the board, twice, using different spots on the towel.
I can assure you this works, so you should be able to exclude cleaning.  
I'm not sure about the soap, and if it is all removed.


ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Laser Toner Transfer Newbie Seeks Assistance

2005-06-09 by David McNab

alterscape2002 wrote:
> Hi All,
>   I'm getting started etching my own boards using laser toner transfer
> onto inkjet photo paper as described around the web.
...
> artwork.  A few traces pulled up, however.  I cleaned the board and
> tried again with another -- same problem.
...
> Can anyone suggest where I might have gone wrong?

Refer my earlier post:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/9215

The clothes iron is a ticket to hell IMHO
I've never managed to get reproducible results.

Get a laminator or fuser. Period. I'm using an old secondhand hotplate
laminator, and getting good results.

As for paper removal, I've had better results gently peeling off the
paper in a slow curling motion while hot, rather than the
dissolving/rubbing/scratching. Also, peeling is way faster.

-- 
Cheers
David

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.