Homebrew_PCBs

> I just made a test ironing of a toner pattern to a copper board, with
> very unsuccessful results.
>
> I cleaned the board with a new Scotchbrite type pad and detergent, then
> scrubbed it with naptha (Ronson lighter fluid) before trying to iron the
> image.
>
> The image was printed in black on Staples Photo Paper, using a Xerox
> color printer at the local Staples store. Even though the printer was
> set for maximum darkness, there was no noticable "thickness" to the
> black areas on the Photo Paper copy. Should there be?
>
> The image and paper never actually stuck to the copper board, except for
> one small spot.
>
> The board was hot, hot enough to begin scorching the paper, from the
> look of it. I used a 1200 watt iron set on Linen (hottest setting) for
> several minutes. While I got some image transfer to the copper, it was
> not very heavy, and was not resistant to light finger rubbing.
>
> I tried a second transfer, also cleaning the bare board with 600 grit
> wet sandpaper. The result was another partial transfer of the image
> _pattern_, but it was not dense enough to be called a resist layer.
> Again, the paper and image areas did not even begin to stick to the
> copper surface. The paper remained completely loose on the board.
>
> Obviously I need to do something differently; should I start by trying a
> different printer?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Steve Bartlett
>
>
>
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>
> I tried a top of the range Lexmark where I used to work for TT, using PnP
> blue film. It worked OK.
> Leon

> Many thanks to everyone who responded.
>
> As I cleaned the board, I had no beading of water when done; it sheeted
> off like it was oil-free. The board as I received it seemed to have a
> waxy coating, reminiscent of dried cosmolene. I think I got all that
> off.
>
> I will use lacquer thinner or acetone outdoors, with suitable skin and
> lung protection.
>
> I will visit a few local copy centers this afternoon and see what I can
> find in the way of laser copiers that will apply a more apparently heavy
> layer of toner than I got originally.
>
> Re: Gary's question, "Are u waiting till the toner dries again
> and board cools before removing the paper??"
>
> Neither the paper of the toner ever "stuck" to the board, although I did
> manage to apply a visible image over about 80% of the traces.
>
> So,
>
> Try a different copier(s)
>
> Use lacquer thinner or acetone, not lighter fluid.
>

>
> I will use lacquer thinner or acetone outdoors, with suitable skin and
> lung protection.
> I will visit a few local copy centers this afternoon and see what I can
> find in the way of laser copiers that will apply a more apparently heavy
> layer of toner than I got originally.

> ...
>
> I'd look at the printer that you used. Do you know the model number?
> Is it really toner based and not an inkjet? ...

> Hmm i hope it works with paper transfer as well. should have gotten a HP
> i think. I've read reviews that the 1200dpi the lexmark m412 claims
> are not realistic. well, the printer was only 30eur or so, and the
> toner costs a lot more!

> I'm used to toner prices of the IIID where i
> bought them for below 10eur each.

>
> Well known modern printer manufacturer scam. Sell you the printer for
> almost nothing and then sell the ink or toner at inflated prices to make
> lots of profit!
> Some injets when supplied have modified cartridges with only a small
> amount of ink in them!
> Stuart