Homebrew_PCBs

In September I purchased the GBC® HeatSeal™ H200 Laminator
from Staples for $99.99 as recommended by Frank Miller of Pulsar.
After processing a couple of 0.031 inch PCBs, I decided to modify it
to accommodate the thicker 0.062 inch PCBs. I carefully followed the
TIA modifications provided on the Pulsar web site
(http://pulsar.gs/).

The directions are not easy to follow, but in all fairness it is
difficult to describe this modification without use of pictures or
diagrams. The modification took about an hour and a half; I can now
do it again in much less time.

Upon completion, I tried to run a 0.062 inch board thru it, but it
jammed. Upon inspection, I discovered the leading edge of the board
was hitting the edge of the lower guide plate ("outfeed plate") as
the board exited the heating rollers. Both the upper and lower plates
have a bent edge facing the rollers. I was about to increase the
bend on the lower plate when I noticed the upper plate had a slightly
sharper bend than the lower plate. So I simply swapped the plates and
found the 0.062 PCB could then be properly fed thru the laminator.
All has been well since then.

I am quite pleased with the performance of the laminator. It takes
the guesswork out of implementing the toner transfer technique.

Bye the way, I have successfully used two types of paper to do the
transfer. The well known Staples picture paper for injet printers
(Staples item 471861) has a high clay content which serves to protect
the toner. But the paper is somewhat difficult to remove requiring a
substantial amount of rubbing. After completion of the rubbing
process, I have to use a sharp thin blade (Xacto knife) under a
microscope to remove residual glue from the sides and corners of a
few traces. The Epson photo paper for ink jet printers (Staples item
380356) will eventually float off the PCB leaving the toner intact.
This unprotected toner is more delicate than the clay covered toner
left by the Staples paper but there is significantly less residual
glue left on the PCB.

Oh...before I forget, there is a recall notice on the H200 and H300
laminators due to a faulty crimp connection. This connection can
cause a short circuit that could bypass the temperature regulator
circuit and both thermal fuses creating a potential fire hazard. The
recalled H200 laminators have serial numbers starting with "PI"
or "PJ". GBC will replace laminators with these serial numbers (call
800-541-0094).

My laminator is PG and that makes my laminator safe, I guess.

What you noticed about the bend of plates is a very valuable piece of
information. Are you using any shims to keep thos aluminum lips
apart? I don't thinks because you would have mentioned something.

The staples paper definitely sticks to traces- have you noticed a
post of Bob Weiss suggesting use of eraser to remove traces of paper?

How many times do you have to pass the 0.062 PCB before toner gets
transferred? Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Radra" <infositeus@y...> wrote:
>
> In September I purchased the GBC® HeatSeal™ H200 Laminator
> from Staples for $99.99 as recommended by Frank Miller of Pulsar.
> After processing a couple of 0.031 inch PCBs, I decided to modify
it
> to accommodate the thicker 0.062 inch PCBs. I carefully followed
the
> TIA modifications provided on the Pulsar web site
> (http://pulsar.gs/).
>
> The directions are not easy to follow, but in all fairness it is
> difficult to describe this modification without use of pictures or
> diagrams. The modification took about an hour and a half; I can now
> do it again in much less time.
>
> Upon completion, I tried to run a 0.062 inch board thru it, but it
> jammed. Upon inspection, I discovered the leading edge of the board
> was hitting the edge of the lower guide plate ("outfeed plate") as
> the board exited the heating rollers. Both the upper and lower
plates
> have a bent edge facing the rollers. I was about to increase the
> bend on the lower plate when I noticed the upper plate had a
slightly
> sharper bend than the lower plate. So I simply swapped the plates
and
> found the 0.062 PCB could then be properly fed thru the laminator.
> All has been well since then.
>
> I am quite pleased with the performance of the laminator. It takes
> the guesswork out of implementing the toner transfer technique.
>
> Bye the way, I have successfully used two types of paper to do the
> transfer. The well known Staples picture paper for injet printers
> (Staples item 471861) has a high clay content which serves to
protect
> the toner. But the paper is somewhat difficult to remove requiring
a
> substantial amount of rubbing. After completion of the rubbing
> process, I have to use a sharp thin blade (Xacto knife) under a
> microscope to remove residual glue from the sides and corners of a
> few traces. The Epson photo paper for ink jet printers (Staples
item
> 380356) will eventually float off the PCB leaving the toner intact.
> This unprotected toner is more delicate than the clay covered toner
> left by the Staples paper but there is significantly less residual
> glue left on the PCB.
>
> Oh...before I forget, there is a recall notice on the H200 and H300
> laminators due to a faulty crimp connection. This connection can
> cause a short circuit that could bypass the temperature regulator
> circuit and both thermal fuses creating a potential fire hazard.
The
> recalled H200 laminators have serial numbers starting with "PI"
> or "PJ". GBC will replace laminators with these serial numbers
(call
> 800-541-0094).

Hi Mike,

I did not use any shims; I simply did the "TIA Modifications" and
swapped the guide plates prior to reassembly of the laminator. Will
try out the "eraser method" to remove residual glue and paper fibers
from the PCB prior to etching. Haven't yet found it necessary to pass
the PCB thru the laminator more than once or twice.

Note, I posted the laminator recall notice in the files section.

Lyman

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> My laminator is PG and that makes my laminator safe, I guess.
>
> What you noticed about the bend of plates is a very valuable piece
of
> information. Are you using any shims to keep thos aluminum lips
> apart? I don't thinks because you would have mentioned something.
>
> The staples paper definitely sticks to traces- have you noticed a
> post of Bob Weiss suggesting use of eraser to remove traces of
paper?
>
> How many times do you have to pass the 0.062 PCB before toner gets
> transferred? Mike

what printer (actually, toner) are you using? With my canon
copier/toner, I need 20 passes to get the toner to stick to 062 double
sided material.

There are 2 possible causes of this discrepency in the number of
passes: toner fusing point and variability in the heating of the
laminator.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Radra" <infositeus@y...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I did not use any shims; I simply did the "TIA Modifications" and
> swapped the guide plates prior to reassembly of the laminator. Will
> try out the "eraser method" to remove residual glue and paper fibers
> from the PCB prior to etching. Haven't yet found it necessary to pass
> the PCB thru the laminator more than once or twice.
>
> Note, I posted the laminator recall notice in the files section.
>
> Lyman
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
> >
> > My laminator is PG and that makes my laminator safe, I guess.
> >
> > What you noticed about the bend of plates is a very valuable piece
> of
> > information. Are you using any shims to keep thos aluminum lips
> > apart? I don't thinks because you would have mentioned something.
> >
> > The staples paper definitely sticks to traces- have you noticed a
> > post of Bob Weiss suggesting use of eraser to remove traces of
> paper?
> >
> > How many times do you have to pass the 0.062 PCB before toner gets
> > transferred? Mike

I am using an HP LaserJet 2200d printer with an HP 96A toner
cartridge. The printer is set for "Best Quality" printing and the
printing density is set to maximum, e.g. 5.

If there is sufficient interest, I can pass a thermocouple thru the
laminator and measure its temperature. It is likely the temperature
can be manually adjusted by doing some simple circuit modification to
the laminator.

Poor toner adhesion can also be caused by contamination of the paper
after printing or by contamination of the PCB surface prior to fusing
in the laminator. Air borne contaminates such as dust or oil
(cooking, machine, etc.) can be a problem so keep paper and PCB
covered until fused together. I wonder if dirty rollers in the
printer fuser could contaminate the image. Improper surface
preparation of the PCB can also be a problem.

I am using double-sided 1-ounce-copper 0.062-inch FR4 PCB material.

Lyman

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> what printer (actually, toner) are you using? With my canon
> copier/toner, I need 20 passes to get the toner to stick to 062
double
> sided material.
>
> There are 2 possible causes of this discrepency in the number of
> passes: toner fusing point and variability in the heating of the
> laminator.

> If there is sufficient interest, I can pass a thermocouple thru the
> laminator and measure its temperature. It is likely the temperature
> can be manually adjusted by doing some simple circuit modification to
> the laminator.

Aproximatey 183 degrees celsius. There is it on the service manual :o)


---

Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.799 / Virus Database: 543 - Release Date: 19/11/04

I'm prtetty sure its the temp relative to the toner. I get excellent
adhesion after 20 passes - poor adhesion at 15 - no adhesion at 10.
contamination would lead to no/poor adhesion no matter how many
passes. If you have a thermocouple set up that would be great. I
plan on measuring the temp of mine and having measurements of other
laminators would be helpful.

On the subject of the manual saying 183C. I dont think this is a high
accuracy device so there could be quite a range swing between units.
Having measurements is good.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Radra" <infositeus@y...> wrote:
>
> I am using an HP LaserJet 2200d printer with an HP 96A toner
> cartridge. The printer is set for "Best Quality" printing and the
> printing density is set to maximum, e.g. 5.
>
> If there is sufficient interest, I can pass a thermocouple thru the
> laminator and measure its temperature. It is likely the temperature
> can be manually adjusted by doing some simple circuit modification to
> the laminator.
>
> Poor toner adhesion can also be caused by contamination of the paper
> after printing or by contamination of the PCB surface prior to fusing
> in the laminator. Air borne contaminates such as dust or oil
> (cooking, machine, etc.) can be a problem so keep paper and PCB
> covered until fused together. I wonder if dirty rollers in the
> printer fuser could contaminate the image. Improper surface
> preparation of the PCB can also be a problem.
>
> I am using double-sided 1-ounce-copper 0.062-inch FR4 PCB material.
>
> Lyman
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> >
> > what printer (actually, toner) are you using? With my canon
> > copier/toner, I need 20 passes to get the toner to stick to 062
> double
> > sided material.
> >
> > There are 2 possible causes of this discrepency in the number of
> > passes: toner fusing point and variability in the heating of the
> > laminator.

I measured the roller temperature as 287 degrees Fahrenheit (142
degrees Celsius). This measurement was rather tricky to make. I
fed the thermocouple into the H200 laminator and attempted to turn it
off just as the thermocouple junction entered the rollers. Can't
actually see to verify the thermocouple is properly placed so
measurement may be low. Repeated measurement several times and
always found temperatures to be in the high 270s or low 280s ranges.

According to a prior post, the temperature should have been 361 F
(183 C). There is a large discrepancy here. I might repeat the
measurement tomorrow using a different thermocouple. Perhaps someone
can suggest a better measurement technique.

Lyman

I was thinking that I would need to open it up, find the temperature
sensor, put the thermistor there, close it up and run it until the
light comes on. Then feed a piece of copper clad through and see what
happens.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Radra" <infositeus@y...> wrote:
>
> I measured the roller temperature as 287 degrees Fahrenheit (142
> degrees Celsius). This measurement was rather tricky to make. I
> fed the thermocouple into the H200 laminator and attempted to turn it
> off just as the thermocouple junction entered the rollers. Can't
> actually see to verify the thermocouple is properly placed so
> measurement may be low. Repeated measurement several times and
> always found temperatures to be in the high 270s or low 280s ranges.
>
> According to a prior post, the temperature should have been 361 F
> (183 C). There is a large discrepancy here. I might repeat the
> measurement tomorrow using a different thermocouple. Perhaps someone
> can suggest a better measurement technique.
>
> Lyman

Hi Phil,

If I recall correctly, the sensor is located adjacent center-bottom
of the lower roller. Unfortunately, the temperature of the sensor
and of that portion of roller the PCB contacts are probably
different. In a feedback control circuit, the sensor only has to
sense something proportional to the parameter being controlled. To
illustrate, the temperature at the sensor may only be one-tenth of
that of the place where you want the temperature controlled. The
control circuit must then provide gain to make up for the lack of
sensor sensitivity.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> I was thinking that I would need to open it up, find the temperature
> sensor, put the thermistor there, close it up and run it until the
> light comes on. Then feed a piece of copper clad through and see
> what happens.

Just repeated the temperature measurements using a different
thermocouple. Temperatures at one inch from the end of the rollers
are in the 285 F to 290 F range. Temperatures at the middle of the
rollers are in the 295 F to 310 F range. My temperature measurements
vary, possibly indicating the heating mechanism is cycling off and on.

These temperatures don't sound very high to me. Yet my laminator
works like a charm. Perhaps it is telling us that the optimum
transfer temperature is lower than we might think.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Radra" <infositeus@y...> wrote:
>
> I measured the roller temperature as 287 degrees Fahrenheit (142
> degrees Celsius). This measurement was rather tricky to make. I
> fed the thermocouple into the H200 laminator and attempted to turn
it
> off just as the thermocouple junction entered the rollers. Can't
> actually see to verify the thermocouple is properly placed so
> measurement may be low. Repeated measurement several times and
> always found temperatures to be in the high 270s or low 280s ranges.
>
> According to a prior post, the temperature should have been 361 F
> (183 C). There is a large discrepancy here. I might repeat the
> measurement tomorrow using a different thermocouple. Perhaps
someone
> can suggest a better measurement technique.
>
> Lyman

I just received my H200 laminator. I'm getting ready to perform the
mods posted at pulsar.gs for it to accept 0.064" boards, I'll be doing
single side using pressnpeel blue.

Any advice before I take my screwdriver to it is greatly appreciated.

Fp

Replying to my own post:

I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully
transfered
my first pcb.

This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a single
pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)

Fp

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "frajopea" <bigfiles@t...> wrote:
> I just received my H200 laminator. I'm getting ready to perform the
> mods posted at pulsar.gs for it to accept 0.064" boards, I'll be doing
> single side using pressnpeel blue.
>
> Any advice before I take my screwdriver to it is greatly appreciated.
>
> Fp

PICS PLEASE! I WANT PICS! LMAO!

I tried doing it and I got crap. Is it the mod that made such a huge
difference? Can you give us the details of exactly what you did, what
material you used, did you bow 3 times towards the East?

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de frajopea
Envoyé : juin 3 2005 19:46
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator


Replying to my own post:

I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully transfered
my first pcb.

This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a single
pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)

Fp






Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links

What sort of price is the H200 Stateside these days?
Bill

----- Original Message -----
From: "frajopea" <bigfiles@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 9:46 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator


> Replying to my own post:
>
> I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully
> transfered
> my first pcb.
>
> This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a single
> pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)
>
> Fp
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "frajopea" <bigfiles@t...> wrote:
>> I just received my H200 laminator. I'm getting ready to perform the
>> mods posted at pulsar.gs for it to accept 0.064" boards, I'll be doing
>> single side using pressnpeel blue.
>>
>> Any advice before I take my screwdriver to it is greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Fp
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Bill Maxwell wrote:

> What sort of price is the H200 Stateside these days?
> Bill

Just looked around recently, and it was like $150 or so new. Picked up a
very cheap one from Staples just to see how it'd do, but it's crap and going back.

Look at Staples website and there is an $80 Xerox that I've heard some good
things about. 4 minute heat up implies a fairly decent heater, a good thing for
PC boards. No telling on the mods needed though. Also the same item is $50
under a different brand name on the net, have to hunt from the picture though I
don't recall it off hand..

Even though I plan to order boards for quantity now, I'll still be testing
and doing prototypes etc. Plan on doing the same as Stefan and building my own
laminator from fusers. Adjustable high heat, pressure, and timing to be able to
find the optimum transfer will just save too much annoyance over the long term
even for once in a while use.

Assuming of course I don't get the direct printing going first. As important
as I see that it's still a back burner thing right now, too many items ahead of
it that have to get done first, mostly boards so I can finish and order the
panels I need.

Alan

I bought one two years ago, no going back to the iron ever.

At 06:46 PM 6/3/2005, you wrote:

>Replying to my own post:
>
>I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully
>transfered
>my first pcb.
>
>This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a single
>pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)
>
>Fp
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "frajopea" <bigfiles@t...> wrote:
> > I just received my H200 laminator. I'm getting ready to perform the
> > mods posted at pulsar.gs for it to accept 0.064" boards, I'll be doing
> > single side using pressnpeel blue.
> >
> > Any advice before I take my screwdriver to it is greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Fp
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.1 - Release Date: 6/3/2005

Cecil Bayona
KD5NWA

There are lots of laminators out there that are worthless. The H200 works
so good because it heats the roller, many cheap ones have a heater and then
it's pressed by cold rollers.

I bought mine two years ago for $99 but about a week ago I searched again
to check the price and see if it's still available and I found it on the
Internet for $97 so look around you should be able to buy it for less that
$100.

At 07:57 PM 6/3/2005, you wrote:

>Bill Maxwell wrote:
>
> > What sort of price is the H200 Stateside these days?
> > Bill
>
>
> Just looked around recently, and it was like $150 or so new. Picked up a
>very cheap one from Staples just to see how it'd do, but it's crap and
>going back.
>
> Look at Staples website and there is an $80 Xerox that I've heard some
> good
>things about. 4 minute heat up implies a fairly decent heater, a good
>thing for
>PC boards. No telling on the mods needed though. Also the same item is $50
>under a different brand name on the net, have to hunt from the picture
>though I
>don't recall it off hand..
>
> Even though I plan to order boards for quantity now, I'll still be
> testing
>and doing prototypes etc. Plan on doing the same as Stefan and building
>my own
>laminator from fusers. Adjustable high heat, pressure, and timing to be
>able to
>find the optimum transfer will just save too much annoyance over the long
>term
>even for once in a while use.
>
> Assuming of course I don't get the direct printing going first. As
> important
>as I see that it's still a back burner thing right now, too many items
>ahead of
>it that have to get done first, mostly boards so I can finish and order the
>panels I need.
>
>Alan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.1 - Release Date: 6/3/2005

Cecil Bayona
KD5NWA

I just checked out Pulsar.gs and I have to admit I'm impressed by the
quality they advertise, and the low cost of their supplies. I'm putting in
an order and going to test their products on my H300.

I also noticed they are using 1/64" PCB, I was using 1/32", no wonder the
laminator was making horrid noises. :D

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de frajopea
Envoyé : juin 3 2005 19:46
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator


Replying to my own post:

I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully transfered
my first pcb.

This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a single
pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)

Fp







Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links

I got mine for $60 here:

http://www.techforless.com/cgi-bin/tech4less/sqlresults?id=X8qYqF9Z&mv_pc=73


Pick one that's missing the non essentials... mine came only with the
manual... who needs anything else :)

The box was also broken (it was shipped with tape on the box, but with
packaging material and a larger box). Save yourselves a hundred
dollars and buy these while they last!

Fp

ps: (disclaimer) My laminator arrived in working condition, I am not
responsible for any bad things happening to anybody who follows my
advice. Take it at your own risk.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
> Bill Maxwell wrote:
>
> > What sort of price is the H200 Stateside these days?
> > Bill
>
>
> Just looked around recently, and it was like $150 or so new.
Picked up a
> very cheap one from Staples just to see how it'd do, but it's crap
and going back.
>
> Look at Staples website and there is an $80 Xerox that I've heard
some good
> things about. 4 minute heat up implies a fairly decent heater, a
good thing for
> PC boards. No telling on the mods needed though. Also the same
item is $50
> under a different brand name on the net, have to hunt from the
picture though I
> don't recall it off hand..
>
> Even though I plan to order boards for quantity now, I'll still
be testing
> and doing prototypes etc. Plan on doing the same as Stefan and
building my own
> laminator from fusers. Adjustable high heat, pressure, and timing
to be able to
> find the optimum transfer will just save too much annoyance over the
long term
> even for once in a while use.
>
> Assuming of course I don't get the direct printing going first.
As important
> as I see that it's still a back burner thing right now, too many
items ahead of
> it that have to get done first, mostly boards so I can finish and
order the
> panels I need.
>
> Alan

I started taking a couple of pictures, but the mod is quite involved
and I needed all the focus I could have. Also, I found the
instructions to be VERY precise.


The mod made all the difference in the world because I use 0.064"
thick blanks. Without the mod it just doesn't fit.

Fp



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@v...>
wrote:

> PICS PLEASE! I WANT PICS! LMAO!
>
> I tried doing it and I got crap. Is it the mod that made such a huge
> difference? Can you give us the details of exactly what you did, what
> material you used, did you bow 3 times towards the East?
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De

> la part de frajopea
> Envoyé : juin 3 2005 19:46
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator
>
>
> Replying to my own post:
>
> I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully

transfered

> my first pcb.
>
> This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a single
> pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)
>
> Fp
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links

KD5NWA wrote:

> There are lots of laminators out there that are worthless. The H200 works
> so good because it heats the roller, many cheap ones have a heater and then
> it's pressed by cold rollers.
>
> I bought mine two years ago for $99 but about a week ago I searched again
> to check the price and see if it's still available and I found it on the
> Internet for $97 so look around you should be able to buy it for less that
> $100.
>
> At 07:57 PM 6/3/2005, you wrote:
>

This was GBC as well and heats the rollers, just low end GBC.

Time to heat up is an ok rough indicator for what it can do, heating up
rollers in 4 minutes is not bad on the Xerox, I doubt the good GBC does
significantly better. Takes much more heating element to warm it up fast than
you need running for normal laminating usually so it's not cost effective. And
then copper board sucks far more heat than most materials being laminated.

Fuser is ready in 18 seconds. While it deals with a similar small thermal
mass for normal printing, it has a very high heating ability so you don't have
to wait even a minute to print. It'll easily cook the board if you leave it
full on. Probably destroy itself eventually too.

Without rebuilding your laminator's electronics you still can't have full
control. Even slowing it down etc only lets you control the temperature profile
a little. If I want complete control to really test out the transfer
temperature envelope I may as well skip buying and rebuilding the electronics of
a laminator and just do the electronics and use a fuser, no more work and I have
the fusers laying around.

Wouldn't suggest it for everyone but it makes sense for what I want to do.
Or at least as much sense as it can, considering it won't make much sense for
other reasons. Time involved vs the fact that I'll have money coming in soon
from an unrelated project means that soon I should probably never even make a
board by these methods again, just send and way a few days and overlap working
on something else.. But I'll screw with it anyway, the fuser from the 6L is
cool and I want to make it burn the heck out of a board now that I see it.
Should do other stuff, but I know I'll do this one since it looks fun.

Alan

Hi,
Looking around for cheap laminator, can anybody tell me if this is a
common modell with another brandname (Novitec)??
http://www.jula.se/Butik/assets/product_images/mellan/929006_b.jpg
This one is 500W and cost is only about $50

Any chance this is a H200? as I cannot find this type in Sweden.

Thanks
Bengt

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
> KD5NWA wrote:
>
> > There are lots of laminators out there that are worthless. The
H200 works
> > so good because it heats the roller, many cheap ones have a
heater and then
> > it's pressed by cold rollers.
> >
> > I bought mine two years ago for $99 but about a week ago I
searched again
> > to check the price and see if it's still available and I found
it on the
> > Internet for $97 so look around you should be able to buy it for
less that
> > $100.
> >
> > At 07:57 PM 6/3/2005, you wrote:
> >
>
>
> This was GBC as well and heats the rollers, just low end GBC.
>
> Time to heat up is an ok rough indicator for what it can do,
heating up
> rollers in 4 minutes is not bad on the Xerox, I doubt the good GBC
does
> significantly better. Takes much more heating element to warm it
up fast than
> you need running for normal laminating usually so it's not cost
effective. And
> then copper board sucks far more heat than most materials being
laminated.
>
> Fuser is ready in 18 seconds. While it deals with a similar
small thermal
> mass for normal printing, it has a very high heating ability so
you don't have
> to wait even a minute to print. It'll easily cook the board if
you leave it
> full on. Probably destroy itself eventually too.
>
> Without rebuilding your laminator's electronics you still can't
have full
> control. Even slowing it down etc only lets you control the
temperature profile
> a little. If I want complete control to really test out the
transfer
> temperature envelope I may as well skip buying and rebuilding the
electronics of
> a laminator and just do the electronics and use a fuser, no more
work and I have
> the fusers laying around.
>
> Wouldn't suggest it for everyone but it makes sense for what I
want to do.
> Or at least as much sense as it can, considering it won't make
much sense for
> other reasons. Time involved vs the fact that I'll have money
coming in soon
> from an unrelated project means that soon I should probably never
even make a
> board by these methods again, just send and way a few days and
overlap working
> on something else.. But I'll screw with it anyway, the fuser from
the 6L is
> cool and I want to make it burn the heck out of a board now that I
see it.
> Should do other stuff, but I know I'll do this one since it looks
fun.
>
> Alan

That doesn't look like it. Below is a link to a web page that shows what a
GBC H200 looks like and the specifications;

<
http://www.presentationsdirect.com/Laminators/product_info.asp?lamtype=pouch&id=1701320

>

I was going to tell you to look for a laminator that says it has heated
rollers, but after looking around the web I found most sites gave
absolutely no description of the products they are trying to sell you. I
would recommend you look at the manufacturers site to get information on a
product that you might be interested in.

There is more to a laminator to make it successful at transferring toner to
a PCB. It needs additional qualities;

1. Must be adjustable to be able to handle the thickness of the PCB
board and art work.
2. Must have heated rollers, this allows a smudge free transfer
3 Must go slow enough to transfer properly
4. Must be hot enough to transfer properly

Item #1 would eliminate most laminators right away since they can't handle
the required thickness of the PCB + artwork.

The H200 is very popular because it meets all those requirements, there is
a simple modification that you can do to it to slow the mechanism down and
it also allows it to handle thicker items.

I looked at the manual on my H200 and it's also in German, Italian, and
Dutch, I would think that they are available in Europe somewhere. Have you
tried doing a search for "GBC H200 Laminator" ?

While trying to find a photo and a description of the H200 I found other
laminators that use heated rollers. Could they be modified to handle the
thickness of a PCB? Your guess would be as good as mine, maybe others can
say what models have worked out for them.

<
https://www.laminationking.com/merchantmanager/v2_5/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=248&mmsid=e2db15e771e900573350e873cc344871

>

If your are mechanically oriented you may want to look at adapting a fuser
assembly from a laser jet printer to transfer the images for you.



At 02:26 AM 6/4/2005, you wrote:

>Hi,
>Looking around for cheap laminator, can anybody tell me if this is a
>common modell with another brandname (Novitec)??
>http://www.jula.se/Butik/assets/product_images/mellan/929006_b.jpg
>This one is 500W and cost is only about $50
>
>Any chance this is a H200? as I cannot find this type in Sweden.
>
>Thanks
>Bengt
>
>

SNIP ....

Cecil Bayona
KD5NWA

In message <42A1252B.3000404@...>
Alan King <alan@...> wrote:

> just do the electronics and use a fuser, no more work and I have
> the fusers laying around.

Lucky you. I tried to track down a fuser - got a quote of £97 + VAT (total of
about £120, or roughly $200) for a Laserjet III fuser. Second-hand from a
scrapped printer, too...

(either I'm looking in the wrong place or fusers are seriously expensive)

I've got a Panasonic KX-P4400 here that seems to need a new developer unit.
Only problem is, the fuser takes paper from the bottom and ejects it out one
side IIRC (unless it just feeds straight through and uses a roller to
realign the paper.. can't remember offhand).

The biggest problem I found was finding data on the thermistors. You need to
keep track of the temperature of the fuser and switch the power based on
that, otherwise you end up frying the thermal fuse or blowing the heater.

The other problem is the motor drive, but that's not too difficult - steal
the motor and drive gears from the printer and use them :)

I've got the LaserJet service manual here - if someone wants to sell me a
cheap LJ/LJ2/LJ3 fuser (or point me to somewhere in the UK that sells them
cheaply), I'd be happy to design something to drive it. Obviously I can't do
that without a fuser :-/

Later.
--
Phil. | Acorn Risc PC600 Mk3, SA202, 64MB, 6GB,
philpem@... | ViewFinder, 10BaseT Ethernet, 2-slice,
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | 48xCD, ARCINv6c IDE, SCSI
... I tried switching to gum but couldn't keep it lit

Hi Robert,

The Pulsar system is a well thought out and marketed
process, using pretty much standard components. There
are few important criteria for making successful toner
transfers.

Copperclad, must be clean and as thin as possible. The
thinner board (1/64") has less mass to heat up and
reach the fusing temperature. More forgiving.

The laminator, for even heat and pressure, must run
slow enough and have a enough heat to bring the board
to temperature. by reversing the gears (per Pulsar)you
slow it down just enough. Also the laminator must be
able to handle the thickness of the board. Most are
designed for thin plastics. By slightly bevelling the
front edge of the pcb and feeding it in slightly
skewed, the laminator can grab it easier without the
groaning noises. That was the 'old' system. The new
laminator only accepts thinner boards.

Transfer paper. The transfer medium must hold the
toner well enough to prevent smudging durign the
handleing in the refusing process, But must releases
the toner easily when done. I other words, the toner
must be more adhesive to the paper, than the toner is
adhesive to the copper.

Pulsar sells a laser foil type thermal transfer film.
This is generally used to apply gold seals to
documents. By running the pcb through the laminator
with this a second time, the toner pick ups the
metalization and 'seals' the toner. Actually, the
second pass helps smooth out the toner and fill in
small voids. The gold or green just makes it look
pretty.

Finally Pulsar suggests a "sponge' method for etching.
You basically wipe on the FeCl3 etchant with a sponge.
By continually wiping, you keep fresh etchant on the
copper. surprisingly, it does work and quickly, but it
is a PITA to keep rubbing the pcb. I'd rather throw it
it a bubbler tank.

Just some thoughts on the Pulsar System. For the
record, I am not involved with Pulsar in any way. Just
appreciate the thoroughness of their design.

Myc






--- Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...> wrote:

> I just checked out Pulsar.gs and I have to admit I'm
> impressed by the
> quality they advertise, and the low cost of their
> supplies. I'm putting in
> an order and going to test their products on my
> H300.
>
> I also noticed they are using 1/64" PCB, I was using
> 1/32", no wonder the
> laminator was making horrid noises. :D
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
> la part de frajopea
> Envoy� : juin 3 2005 19:46
> � : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator
>
>
> Replying to my own post:
>
> I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have
> successfully transfered
> my first pcb.
>
> This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner
> transfered in a single
> pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like
> this :)
>
> Fp
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> --------------------~-->
> In low income neighborhoods, 84% do not own
> computers.
> At Network for Good, help bridge the Digital Divide!
>

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>

--------------------------------------------------------------------~->

>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
> Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>

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On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 15:04:19 +0200, Philip Pemberton
<philpem@...> wrote:

> Lucky you. I tried to track down a fuser - got a quote of £97 + VAT
> (total of
> about £120, or roughly $200) for a Laserjet III fuser. Second-hand from a
> scrapped printer, too...
> (either I'm looking in the wrong place or fusers are seriously expensive)

Now that's outrageous, you can get HP IIIs for 1eur sometimes at ebay,
complete!
I would not expect more than 10eur for a fuser unit.

> The biggest problem I found was finding data on the thermistors. You
> need to
> keep track of the temperature of the fuser and switch the power based on
> that, otherwise you end up frying the thermal fuse or blowing the heater.

You don't need to know which thermistor it is. what i did was use a
thermocouple to measure the fuser temp. manually to set it. from there on
your circuit is set to bias around that thermistor value, nothing more is
required.

> The other problem is the motor drive, but that's not too difficult -
> steal
> the motor and drive gears from the printer and use them

Yes, if you are mechanically challenged go to the DIY and grab that
chicken grill motor.

> I've got the LaserJet service manual here - if someone wants to sell me a
> cheap LJ/LJ2/LJ3 fuser (or point me to somewhere in the UK that sells
> them
> cheaply), I'd be happy to design something to drive it. Obviously I
> can't do
> that without a fuser :-/

<http://search.ebay.co.uk/fuser-assy-assembly-unit-coating_W0QQbsZSearchQQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoactionZcompareQQcoactionZcompareQQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQcopagenumZ1QQcopagenumZ1QQcopagenumZ1QQfltZ9QQfposZPostcodeQQfromZR10QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQga10244Z10425QQpriceZ1QQsacatZQ2d1QQsacatZQ2d1QQsacatZQ2d1QQsacatZQ2d1QQsadisZ200QQsaprchiZ20QQsargnZQ2d1QQsaslcZ3QQsatitleZfuserQ20Q28assyQ2cQ20assemblyQ2cQ20unitQ29Q20Q2dcoatingQQsbrftogZ1QQsofocusZbs>

that and patience..


ST

EBay, definitely the way to go. Check the web, there are other auction
sites besides EBay.

Unfortunately for Europe, a LOT of Americans only sell to the US, and
sometimes to Canada. Since a large volume of EBay are American, that sucks
for you 3rd world countries. :P LOL

Seriously, search on EBay for laser-copier-fuser and make sure to toggle the
thingy in the advanced search options to make sure the items are available
to your country.

Robert
:)




Lucky you. I tried to track down a fuser - got a quote of £97 + VAT (total
of about £120, or roughly $200) for a Laserjet III fuser. Second-hand from a
scrapped printer, too...

(either I'm looking in the wrong place or fusers are seriously expensive)

Later.
--
Phil. | Acorn Risc PC600 Mk3, SA202, 64MB, 6GB,
philpem@... | ViewFinder, 10BaseT Ethernet, 2-slice,
http://www.philpem.me.uk/ | 48xCD, ARCINv6c IDE, SCSI
... I tried switching to gum but couldn't keep it lit



Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links

I have 2 laminators, an el-cheapo and the H300.

The made in China el-cheapo is labelled WMC901HC rated at 300W and cost
about $30CAD at WalMart.

The GBC H300 also made in China is rated at 700W and cost about $200CAD at
Staples.

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Bengt
Envoyé : juin 4 2005 03:26
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator


Hi,
Looking around for cheap laminator, can anybody tell me if this is a
common modell with another brandname (Novitec)??
http://www.jula.se/Butik/assets/product_images/mellan/929006_b.jpg
This one is 500W and cost is only about $50

Any chance this is a H200? as I cannot find this type in Sweden.

Thanks
Bengt







Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links

Philip Pemberton wrote:

> Lucky you. I tried to track down a fuser - got a quote of £97 + VAT (total of
> about £120, or roughly $200) for a Laserjet III fuser. Second-hand from a
> scrapped printer, too...

Well as a replacement part to fix someone's printer they're worth far more
than the whole printer as scrap. You want to get one out of a scrap printer
that is uneconomical to replace the cartridge, not order it as a seperate unit.
Any type of spare will cost a fortune compared to getting a printer carcass
that is being tossed.

>
>
> The biggest problem I found was finding data on the thermistors. You need to
> keep track of the temperature of the fuser and switch the power based on
> that, otherwise you end up frying the thermal fuse or blowing the heater.

A couple of wires brought out so you can watch it on a working printer helps
here. If you can't do that then just apply heat for a short time to get it
started up, and then switch to a very low duty cycle. Use a seperate
temperature probe of some type so you can see what is going on independently of
the thermistor. Shouldn't take long to figure it out, you just have to start
with very low duty cycle since they usually have much more power for quick heat
than what is needed once they're at temperature.

Or just bake it and read, that will give you a good idea of the right value
for the thermistor.

>
> The other problem is the motor drive, but that's not too difficult - steal
> the motor and drive gears from the printer and use them :)

I've got a ton of 18:1 gearhead steppers, but the motor would work fine too.
Problem is dealing with the gear train but it's not too bad.

>
> I've got the LaserJet service manual here - if someone wants to sell me a
> cheap LJ/LJ2/LJ3 fuser (or point me to somewhere in the UK that sells them
> cheaply), I'd be happy to design something to drive it. Obviously I can't do
> that without a fuser :-/
>
> Later.

Early model LJ's are very heavy to ship. Find something a little more modern
that's lighter but still has a roller fuser to get. Win one or two off Ebay etc
that starts at $5 or something and you'll be much better off. Sub $100 new
printers on sale here in the states, with duties and taxes etc throwing away may
make less sense there so it may not be as common.

About as well off to just get a laminator if that's all you really want,
after the materials and time are considered. I have some other things to do
with both fusers and a seperate controller, so there are other outside reasons I
want to do it this way. While I only bought the cheap one to see where the low
point was, I'd certainly buy a mid-grade one and modify it if that were all I
wanted.

Alan

>
>
>>The other problem is the motor drive, but that's not too difficult -
>>steal
>>the motor and drive gears from the printer and use them
>
>
> Yes, if you are mechanically challenged go to the DIY and grab that
> chicken grill motor.
>

Here in the US paper shredders are also a good motor source. Once in a while
Office Max etc have the low end units for $10, terrible shredders since the
cutters mess up fast, but great for parts. Usually a nice motor and gearing..

Alan

Here is the PIC's for the H200 Mod:

http://www.qsl.net/ve2emm/pcb/pcb_mach_mod_e.html

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan
<robert.hedan@v...> wrote:

> PICS PLEASE! I WANT PICS! LMAO!
>
> I tried doing it and I got crap. Is it the mod that made such a

huge

> difference? Can you give us the details of exactly what you did,

what

> material you used, did you bow 3 times towards the East?
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De

> la part de frajopea
> Envoyé : juin 3 2005 19:46
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator
>
>
> Replying to my own post:
>
> I followed the instructions by pulsar.gs and I have successfully

transfered

> my first pcb.
>
> This is NOTHING like the clothes iron, the toner transfered in a

single

> pass. I can see myself making lots of boards like this :)
>
> Fp
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and

files:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links

Woo!

Go through the SEARCH results using the arrows on the left, the baddest of
the laminators, a tad on the expensive side though:

http://www.presentationsdirect.com/Laminators/product_info.asp?lamtype=pouch
&index=9

I checked for wattage and they do not post it, but they do post amperage so
I used that as a gauge instead. Difficult to know if it's the motor that
takes more juice or if it's the heating elements, but it's better than
nothing.

The H200 and H300 both share the same amperage, so I'd say save your money
and get the H200 unless you absolutely want to laminate something 11" x 17"
or so. The H400 has no amperage rating and has 2 extra unheated rollers.
The upper range laminators are WAAY more expensive.

Robert
:)


-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de KD5NWA
Envoyé : juin 4 2005 08:39
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator


That doesn't look like it. Below is a link to a web page that shows what a
GBC H200 looks like and the specifications;

<
http://www.presentationsdirect.com/Laminators/product_info.asp?lamtype=pouch
&id=1701320

>

Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links

The H100, a 4 inch wide laminator for $60 works well too.

In fact there is a 'hobby' version of the H200 that is under $50 (9"
wide) that Pulsar is now selling instead of the H200. No mods are
needed, if using the 1/64" pcbs. Staples Has (had) them.

Myc




--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan
<robert.hedan@v...> wrote:

> Woo!
>
> Go through the SEARCH results using the arrows on the left, the

baddest of

> the laminators, a tad on the expensive side though:
>
> http://www.presentationsdirect.com/Laminators/product_info.asp?

lamtype=pouch

> &index=9
>
> I checked for wattage and they do not post it, but they do post

amperage so

> I used that as a gauge instead. Difficult to know if it's the

motor that

> takes more juice or if it's the heating elements, but it's better

than

> nothing.
>
> The H200 and H300 both share the same amperage, so I'd say save

your money

> and get the H200 unless you absolutely want to laminate something

11" x 17"

> or so. The H400 has no amperage rating and has 2 extra unheated

rollers.

> The upper range laminators are WAAY more expensive.
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De

> la part de KD5NWA
> Envoyé : juin 4 2005 08:39
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator
>
>
> That doesn't look like it. Below is a link to a web page that

shows what a

> GBC H200 looks like and the specifications;
>
> <
> http://www.presentationsdirect.com/Laminators/product_info.asp?

lamtype=pouch

> &id=1701320
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and

files:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links

mycroft2152 wrote:

> The H100, a 4 inch wide laminator for $60 works well too.
>
> In fact there is a 'hobby' version of the H200 that is under $50 (9"
> wide) that Pulsar is now selling instead of the H200. No mods are
> needed, if using the 1/64" pcbs. Staples Has (had) them.
>
> Myc
>

That's the $50 one I got from Staples. It was ok with 5-6 passes etc, really
needed a few more. 15 minutes heat up time, can't imagine that the H200 isn't
much better. With the mods to slow it down etc, it may be ok.

For manufacturing economy, it could even use the same rollers and heater of
the H200, and be tuned down to seperate the models on purpose. Might be
moddable to be the same thing while one is in there screwing with the gears.

Still, it's going back and a fuser unit is being made..

Alan

Thanks for that tip. Sadly, while happy to supply a H300, their freight
estimate to Australia was $175.85. That put a very different perspective on
the proposal. Guess it's back to tracking the H200 or H300 model on the
Australian market or treading the laser printer fuser route.

Bill

----- Original Message -----
From: "frajopea" <bigfiles@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 12:56 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator


>I got mine for $60 here:
>
> http://www.techforless.com/cgi-bin/tech4less/sqlresults?id=X8qYqF9Z&mv_pc=73
>
>
> Pick one that's missing the non essentials... mine came only with the
> manual... who needs anything else :)
>
> The box was also broken (it was shipped with tape on the box, but with
> packaging material and a larger box). Save yourselves a hundred
> dollars and buy these while they last!
>
> Fp
>
> ps: (disclaimer) My laminator arrived in working condition, I am not
> responsible for any bad things happening to anybody who follows my
> advice. Take it at your own risk.
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Alan King <alan@n...> wrote:
>> Bill Maxwell wrote:
>>
>> > What sort of price is the H200 Stateside these days?
>> > Bill
>>
>>
>> Just looked around recently, and it was like $150 or so new.
> Picked up a
>> very cheap one from Staples just to see how it'd do, but it's crap
> and going back.
>>
>> Look at Staples website and there is an $80 Xerox that I've heard
> some good
>> things about. 4 minute heat up implies a fairly decent heater, a
> good thing for
>> PC boards. No telling on the mods needed though. Also the same
> item is $50
>> under a different brand name on the net, have to hunt from the
> picture though I
>> don't recall it off hand..
>>
>> Even though I plan to order boards for quantity now, I'll still
> be testing
>> and doing prototypes etc. Plan on doing the same as Stefan and
> building my own
>> laminator from fusers. Adjustable high heat, pressure, and timing
> to be able to
>> find the optimum transfer will just save too much annoyance over the
> long term
>> even for once in a while use.
>>
>> Assuming of course I don't get the direct printing going first.
> As important
>> as I see that it's still a back burner thing right now, too many
> items ahead of
>> it that have to get done first, mostly boards so I can finish and
> order the
>> panels I need.
>>
>> Alan
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 01:00:16 +0200, Bill Maxwell <wrmaxwell@...>
wrote:

> Thanks for that tip. Sadly, while happy to supply a H300, their freight
> estimate to Australia was $175.85. That put a very different
> perspective on
> the proposal. Guess it's back to tracking the H200 or H300 model on the
> Australian market or treading the laser printer fuser route.
> Bill

How do they send it? With the space shuttle?

Some shipping estimtes are really outrageous.

USPS ground mail should be much cheaper, maybe find another shop.

ST

Outrageous indeed. Actually I thought I had located the Australian version
at a well known supplier chain store but unfortunately that was when I lived
in Canberra. That store does not trade here in Tasmania, as far as I know.
However, as a result of the recent posts I now also know that there is a
second possible model, a H95b? I vaguely recall something like that model
number being sold by our Post Office. I must check tomorrow when I go into
town.

Bill----- Original Message -----
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 9:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: H200 Laminator

> On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 01:00:16 +0200, Bill Maxwell <wrmaxwell@...>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for that tip. Sadly, while happy to supply a H300, their freight
>> estimate to Australia was $175.85. That put a very different
>> perspective on
>> the proposal. Guess it's back to tracking the H200 or H300 model on the
>> Australian market or treading the laser printer fuser route.
>> Bill
>
>
> How do they send it? With the space shuttle?
>
> Some shipping estimtes are really outrageous.
>
> USPS ground mail should be much cheaper, maybe find another shop.
>
> ST
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

I've got my H300 splayed out in front of me and I 'm not sure the mod
applies to this model.

<http://www.qsl.net/ve2emm/pcb/pcb_mach_mod_e.html>

The motor has a small gear, the shaft has a large gear; for every turn of
the motor, the shaft will not make a complete rotation. If I exchange the
gears, things will be the opposite. The shaft will turn faster than the
motor and the PCB will pass through faster. Or is it rally that late and
I'm thinking backwards?

As for the 2nd part of the mod, alterring the motor assembly, I see no use
whatsoever in doing that. The only function that serves is to disengage the
motor gear from the shaft gear, permitting 'things' to be pulled between the
rollers. I see no impact at all on the distance between the rollers. It
might be useful for those that had to reverse gears on smaller models, to
give more play in the mechanism, but that's all I can see.

The device that controls the distance between the rollers is immediately
under those 2 top screws on each end of the heating element. It is a
straight spring-rod which applies pressure to the top roller. I see no
indication how these mods can add 'travel' to this device.

Or is it really that late and I'm thinking backwards? Or is it possible the
H300 already has the reversed gears for slower processing?

Robert
:)



-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de frajopea
Envoyé : juin 3 2005 16:43
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] H200 Laminator


I just received my H200 laminator. I'm getting ready to perform the mods
posted at pulsar.gs for it to accept 0.064" boards, I'll be doing single
side using pressnpeel blue.

Any advice before I take my screwdriver to it is greatly appreciated.

Fp






Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
Yahoo! Groups Links

On Fri, 17 Jun 2005 12:21:43 +0200, Robert Hedan
<robert.hedan@...> wrote:

>
> The motor has a small gear, the shaft has a large gear; for every turn of
> the motor, the shaft will not make a complete rotation. If I exchange
> the
> gears, things will be the opposite. The shaft will turn faster than the
> motor and the PCB will pass through faster. Or is it rally that late and
> I'm thinking backwards?

Motor small gear shaft large gear means slower, yes. You are not thinking
wrong.
imagine the motor gear tiny and the shaft gear huge, it is obvious to
imagine the small gear spinning like mad while the large gear is very slow.

Mod might not apply, dunno, don't have laminator.

ST

The changes are for the GBC H95 and the H200, the H300 is a different beast.

At 05:21 AM 6/17/2005, you wrote:

>I've got my H300 splayed out in front of me and I 'm not sure the mod
>applies to this model.
>
><http://www.qsl.net/ve2emm/pcb/pcb_mach_mod_e.html>
>
>The motor has a small gear, the shaft has a large gear; for every turn of
>the motor, the shaft will not make a complete rotation. If I exchange the
>gears, things will be the opposite. The shaft will turn faster than the
>motor and the PCB will pass through faster. Or is it rally that late and
>I'm thinking backwards?
>
>As for the 2nd part of the mod, alterring the motor assembly, I see no use
>whatsoever in doing that. The only function that serves is to disengage the
>motor gear from the shaft gear, permitting 'things' to be pulled between the
>rollers. I see no impact at all on the distance between the rollers. It
>might be useful for those that had to reverse gears on smaller models, to
>give more play in the mechanism, but that's all I can see.
>
>The device that controls the distance between the rollers is immediately
>under those 2 top screws on each end of the heating element. It is a
>straight spring-rod which applies pressure to the top roller. I see no
>indication how these mods can add 'travel' to this device.
>
>Or is it really that late and I'm thinking backwards? Or is it possible the
>H300 already has the reversed gears for slower processing?
>
>Robert
>:)
>
>
>
>-----Message d'origine-----
>De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
>la part de frajopea
>Envoyé : juin 3 2005 16:43
>À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Objet : [Homebrew_PCBs] H200 Laminator
>
>
>I just received my H200 laminator. I'm getting ready to perform the mods
>posted at pulsar.gs for it to accept 0.064" boards, I'll be doing single
>side using pressnpeel blue.
>
>Any advice before I take my screwdriver to it is greatly appreciated.
>
>Fp
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
>If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.7.3/15 - Release Date: 6/14/2005

Cecil Bayona
KD5NWA
www.qrpradio.com

'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you
with experience.'

Has this been brought to the attention of the group yet?
http://www.dakeng.com/u2.html

It's a PIC 16F84 along with the Assembler code to convert standard TTL step
and direction signals to the phase signals used by a unipolar stepper motor
for two axes.

Robert
:)





Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Robert,

Another PIC type uP is the PICAXE, it is programmed in
basic, and only requires a 3 wire serial cable for
programming. The PICAXE website has a lot of info on
interfacing, including stepper motors. A 8 pin PICAXE
chip will set up back $3. Its bigger brother the 18
pin will set you back around $10.

Start up cost to try the PICAXR is about 5 bucks. The
software is all free and downloadable from the PICAXE
website. A old serial mouse cable can be made into the
programming cable.

I'm working on a PICAXE based pcb driller with stepper
motors, using th 8 pin $3 PICAXE chip.

Myc

--- Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...> wrote:

> Has this been brought to the attention of the group
> yet?
> http://www.dakeng.com/u2.html
>
> It's a PIC 16F84 along with the Assembler code to
> convert standard TTL step
> and direction signals to the phase signals used by a
> unipolar stepper motor
> for two axes.
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post
> them here:
>

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/

>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Using a microcontroller to replace several discrete hardware
components is where it's at but unfortunately that doesn't seem to be
the case here. The Allegro UCN5804 and several other single chip
unipolar drivers from the mid nineties (now obsolete) not only did
that but also had built in high current drivers. Furthermore, IIRC,
you cannot get any reasonable torque from this approach unless a
voltage at least 5 times the rated voltage of the stepper is used in
conjunction with current limiting ballast resistors. These resistors
get very hot and have to be heat sinked. This is outdated technology
and to mimic it using a microcontroller seems nothing more than an
academic exercise in programming.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Robert Hedan
<robert.hedan@v...> wrote:

> Has this been brought to the attention of the group yet?
> http://www.dakeng.com/u2.html
>
> It's a PIC 16F84 along with the Assembler code to convert standard

TTL step

> and direction signals to the phase signals used by a unipolar

stepper motor

> for two axes.
>
> Robert
> :)
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and

Photos:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links

Anyone try those for eyelets?
They make them down to fairly low diamters, and the price is reasonable,
compared to eyelets where it is unreasonable.

There is tinned variety and silver plated. I guess the tinned ones should
solder OK?

They are a bit long (6mm) but i guess one can cut them after soldering.

ST

At 11:53 AM 6/18/2005, Stefan Trethan wrote:

>Anyone try those for eyelets?
>They make them down to fairly low diamters, and the price is reasonable,
>compared to eyelets where it is unreasonable.
>
>There is tinned variety and silver plated. I guess the tinned ones should
>solder OK?

Gosh - I use eyelets from Keystone and thought they were fairly
inexpensive. They've only got 3 sizes: 0.062", 0.093", 0.125" and the
tooling is frigg'n expensive but works very well.

I'll check prices on Monday. I've got lots of all 3 sizes on hand right
now and just don't remember what the last batch cost us.

Where do you purchase your ferrules? I'm currently using name brand
(expensive) non-insulated ferrules from Weidmuller and about to purchase a
whole whack of insulated ferrules. Inexpensive sources would be nice to
know about.

Thanks!

dwayne

--
Dwayne Reid <dwayner@...>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax

Celebrating 21 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2005)
.-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-
`-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-'
Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address.
This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited
commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email.

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 20:08:32 +0200, Dwayne Reid <dwayner@...>
wrote:

> Gosh - I use eyelets from Keystone and thought they were fairly
> inexpensive. They've only got 3 sizes: 0.062", 0.093", 0.125" and the
> tooling is frigg'n expensive but works very well.
> I'll check prices on Monday. I've got lots of all 3 sizes on hand right
> now and just don't remember what the last batch cost us.
> Where do you purchase your ferrules? I'm currently using name brand
> (expensive) non-insulated ferrules from Weidmuller and about to purchase
> a
> whole whack of insulated ferrules. Inexpensive sources would be nice to
> know about.
> Thanks!
> dwayne

hmm keystone eyelets cost ~~$4 / 100 at newark.
at reichelt.de 1000 cost 19eur (probably bungard).
100 0.5sqmm ferrules cost 0,60eur, at reichelt.de

not as expensive as i had remembered, but ferrules are still cheaper and i
can get them here and needn't order in germany.

I don't want to press them, just solder both sides. Tho i guess it would
not be too hard to make a tool to press them.


ST

Is there a source for the PICAXE here in the states?
I have done some searching but have only found in it
GB and AU.

John [K7SVV]

--- Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote:

> Hi Robert,
>
> Another PIC type uP is the PICAXE, it is programmed
> in
> basic, and only requires a 3 wire serial cable for
> programming. The PICAXE website has a lot of info on
> interfacing, including stepper motors. A 8 pin
> PICAXE
> chip will set up back $3. Its bigger brother the 18
> pin will set you back around $10.
>
> Start up cost to try the PICAXR is about 5 bucks.
> The
> software is all free and downloadable from the
> PICAXE
> website. A old serial mouse cable can be made into
> the
> programming cable.
>
> I'm working on a PICAXE based pcb driller with
> stepper
> motors, using th 8 pin $3 PICAXE chip.
>
> Myc
>
> --- Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...> wrote:
>
> > Has this been brought to the attention of the
> group
> > yet?
> > http://www.dakeng.com/u2.html
> >
> > It's a PIC 16F84 along with the Assembler code to
> > convert standard TTL step
> > and direction signals to the phase signals used by
> a
> > unipolar stepper motor
> > for two axes.
> >
> > Robert
> > :)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> > Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
> > If Files or Photos are running short of space,
> post
> > them here:
> >
>

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/

> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

John
K7SVV



____________________________________________________
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
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Probably the only US source is Peter Anderson - http://www.phanderson.com/.
He's on a few Yahoo groups. There's a Yahoo group for the PicAxe, btw.

Unfortunately for you, he's just closed up shop for a while, his website
says he'll be back mid-August.

Apparently shipping from the UK is horrendous, so I'd wait if I were you.

Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, 19 June 2005 8:07 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PIC stepper controller for drilling station


Is there a source for the PICAXE here in the states?
I have done some searching but have only found in it
GB and AU.

John [K7SVV]

--- Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote:

> Hi Robert,
>
> Another PIC type uP is the PICAXE, it is programmed
> in
> basic, and only requires a 3 wire serial cable for
> programming. The PICAXE website has a lot of info on
> interfacing, including stepper motors. A 8 pin
> PICAXE
> chip will set up back $3. Its bigger brother the 18
> pin will set you back around $10.
>
> Start up cost to try the PICAXR is about 5 bucks.
> The
> software is all free and downloadable from the
> PICAXE
> website. A old serial mouse cable can be made into
> the
> programming cable.
>
> I'm working on a PICAXE based pcb driller with
> stepper
> motors, using th 8 pin $3 PICAXE chip.
>
> Myc
>
> --- Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...> wrote:
>
> > Has this been brought to the attention of the
> group
> > yet?
> > http://www.dakeng.com/u2.html
> >
> > It's a PIC 16F84 along with the Assembler code to
> > convert standard TTL step
> > and direction signals to the phase signals used by
> a
> > unipolar stepper motor
> > for two axes.
> >
> > Robert
> > :)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> > Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
> > If Files or Photos are running short of space,
> post
> > them here:
> >
>

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/

> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>

John
K7SVV



____________________________________________________
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com





Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi John,

I bought my PICAXE from PHAnderson. He's a professor
in the States. He usually has some Ebay ads. Fair
prices and great service.


Myc

--- John <digi9345@...> wrote:

> Is there a source for the PICAXE here in the states?
>
> I have done some searching but have only found in it
> GB and AU.
>
> John [K7SVV]
>
> --- Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi Robert,
> >
> > Another PIC type uP is the PICAXE, it is
> programmed
> > in
> > basic, and only requires a 3 wire serial cable for
> > programming. The PICAXE website has a lot of info
> on
> > interfacing, including stepper motors. A 8 pin
> > PICAXE
> > chip will set up back $3. Its bigger brother the
> 18
> > pin will set you back around $10.
> >
> > Start up cost to try the PICAXR is about 5 bucks.
> > The
> > software is all free and downloadable from the
> > PICAXE
> > website. A old serial mouse cable can be made into
> > the
> > programming cable.
> >
> > I'm working on a PICAXE based pcb driller with
> > stepper
> > motors, using th 8 pin $3 PICAXE chip.
> >
> > Myc
> >
> > --- Robert Hedan <robert.hedan@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Has this been brought to the attention of the
> > group
> > > yet?
> > > http://www.dakeng.com/u2.html
> > >
> > > It's a PIC 16F84 along with the Assembler code
> to
> > > convert standard TTL step
> > > and direction signals to the phase signals used
> by
> > a
> > > unipolar stepper motor
> > > for two axes.
> > >
> > > Robert
> > > :)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for
> new
> > > Links, Files, and Photos:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > >
> > > If Files or Photos are running short of space,
> > post
> > > them here:
> > >
> >
>

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/

> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> > protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
>
> John
> K7SVV
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
>
> Yahoo! Sports
> Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
>
> http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Mycroft2152 wrote:

>Hi John,
>
>I bought my PICAXE from PHAnderson. He's a professor
>in the States. He usually has some Ebay ads. Fair
>prices and great service.
>
>
>Myc
>
>

I can vouch for PHAnderson, website at http://www.phanderson.com/ (natch)
I have had great service from him for years.
David

Thanks guys. I tried his site and found that he is
closed until mid August so I guess I will just have to
be patient.

John [K7SVV]

--- David P Harris <dpharris@...> wrote:

> Mycroft2152 wrote:
>
> >Hi John,
> >
> >I bought my PICAXE from PHAnderson. He's a
> professor
> >in the States. He usually has some Ebay ads. Fair
> >prices and great service.
> >
> >
> >Myc
> >
> >
> I can vouch for PHAnderson, website at
> http://www.phanderson.com/ (natch)
> I have had great service from him for years.
> David
>
>
>

John
K7SVV



____________________________________________________
Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com

> closed until mid August so I guess I will just have to
> be patient.
>

http://www.glitchbuster.com/


Or get some samples from Microchip.


Not so sure why you all are bent on getting PICs for this. If all you're
doing is Step and Direction to 4 outputs you may as well spend the $2 and get
the 2 or 3 chips necessary to do it straight in logic, and skip the idea of
programming anything..


Alan

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 16:28:47 +0200, Alan King <alan@...> wrote:

> Not so sure why you all are bent on getting PICs for this. If all
> you're
> doing is Step and Direction to 4 outputs you may as well spend the $2
> and get
> the 2 or 3 chips necessary to do it straight in logic, and skip the idea
> of
> programming anything..
> Alan

I agree. My opinion is it is insane to use a micro for such a simple
function. Now microstepping is another issue, although there would still
be relatively simple methods to do microstepping without any programming
(assuming staying in the lower numbers of microsteps).

But i have people seen to attempt to use a micro to invert a signal... no
joke.
Sometimes it seems the people who make webpages today are now trying their
luck in electronics. If you noticed how large a proportion of commercial
webpages is plainly not functional any more you know what i mean. Some
time ago it was known engineering should seek solutions as complex as
needed to do the job, and as simple as possible. I guess it was forgotten
when marketing people frauded themselves into decision-making positions.

You guys are lucky that i'm hungry, because that means an early end of
rant ;-)


ST

I'm not getting PICs for this model. I'm going the short and simple route
for the drilling station:

- Mach 2 on the PC.
- Parallel cable to a triple driver board.
- 3 steppers connected to the driver board.
- Dremel-type drill mounted on Z-axis.

And that's it, no PICs. I'll probably add bells and whistles later, but for
now I'm just going the easy route. I have plans to add a USB camera with a
magnifier for inspecting circuits as I make them.

I still have plans for a CNC machine, that one I'll build on my spare time.
But right now I need to drill holes so that's where I'm putting my energy.

Robert
:)


-----Message d'origine-----
De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De
la part de Alan King
Envoyé : juin 20 2005 10:29
À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] PIC stepper controller for drilling station

> closed until mid August so I guess I will just have to
> be patient.
>

http://www.glitchbuster.com/


Or get some samples from Microchip.


Not so sure why you all are bent on getting PICs for this. If all you're

doing is Step and Direction to 4 outputs you may as well spend the $2 and
get
the 2 or 3 chips necessary to do it straight in logic, and skip the idea of
programming anything..


Alan


Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
Yahoo! Groups Links

At Fry's I saw a Royal Sovereign 9" laminator for $80. Does anyone have
experience with this one?

Thanks


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