Homebrew_PCBs

I finally decided to modify the laminator IAW www.puslar.gs
directions.

IMO it is not a 15 minutes job, as he claims, it took mi close to an
hour to get it all done. Then, his directions are vague and
imprecise, they miss some steps, and he uses terms that are not
typical names in the industry. Bottom line is that his directions
suck big time, very big time, but they were good enough for me to
complete the job, although few times I wasn't sure if that project
would ever be completed.

I ran few tests with it and all works very well. The principle is the
same as Stefan described, chicken and grill but here one doesn't have
to hunt his own chicken before grilling it... The ideas that he came
up with, are very innovative, how in the world he knew how to rotate
a motor to a new position, or how he came up with idea of exchanging
the gears??? It tells me that he spent countless hours to develop the
product. Mike

I didn't find the directions that bad but it did take some head
scratching at several points. a couple of pix would have been
*really* helpful.

One thing I found to be necessary is a pair of spacers between the two
outfeed plates. I was getting my paper/board assembly stuck in the
outfeed because the top plate would drop down. I made 2 small spacers
out of 0.062 FR4, took the unit apart and reassembled the outfeed
plates with the spacers sandwiched at each end. No more jams. If you
experience outfeed jams, you'll want to do this.

Switching the gears was the only easy way to slow down the feed rate.
I think it needs to be about 1/2 the rate (at least for my 20-pass
toner). I'd really like a speed control but it looks like an AC motor
so that's not gonna happen - I'll hack a fuser assembly first.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> I finally decided to modify the laminator IAW www.puslar.gs
> directions.
>
> IMO it is not a 15 minutes job, as he claims, it took mi close to an
> hour to get it all done. Then, his directions are vague and
> imprecise, they miss some steps, and he uses terms that are not
> typical names in the industry. Bottom line is that his directions
> suck big time, very big time, but they were good enough for me to
> complete the job, although few times I wasn't sure if that project
> would ever be completed.
>
> I ran few tests with it and all works very well. The principle is the
> same as Stefan described, chicken and grill but here one doesn't have
> to hunt his own chicken before grilling it... The ideas that he came
> up with, are very innovative, how in the world he knew how to rotate
> a motor to a new position, or how he came up with idea of exchanging
> the gears??? It tells me that he spent countless hours to develop the
> product. Mike

About the spacers: they basically pivot (wiggle) and are not
parallel to each other. Is that what you are referring to? If so
then to cope with it you keep them apart with two 0.062" strips of
PCBs on each end, right? If so then it is possible to stick those two
strips from the back, without disassembling the laminator, what do
you think?

Like I said, I completed it but for such a product (it carries the
whole line of dextrine paper), I would envision something written by
a technical writer, with pictures, because I can see some people
having problems with it.


I also comapred the temperature with a comemrcial laminator and the
HC200 definitely runs cooler. However, I had some old dyna art paper,
more then 10 years old, and I tried the copy machine layout on an
uncleaned surface with both machines. After having it soaked for few
seconds the paper jsut flew off the PCB leaving beautiful TT image.
Black, 100%. I repeated the lamination maybe 5 times. That dyna art
(pulsar) paper is just awsome. Frankly, I have a hard time deciding
which machine I like more, probably HC200 because of small size and
attractive design. Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> I didn't find the directions that bad but it did take some head
> scratching at several points. a couple of pix would have been
> *really* helpful.
>
> One thing I found to be necessary is a pair of spacers between the
two
> outfeed plates. I was getting my paper/board assembly stuck in the
> outfeed because the top plate would drop down. I made 2 small
spacers
> out of 0.062 FR4, took the unit apart and reassembled the outfeed
> plates with the spacers sandwiched at each end. No more jams. If
you
> experience outfeed jams, you'll want to do this.
>
> Switching the gears was the only easy way to slow down the feed
rate.
> I think it needs to be about 1/2 the rate (at least for my 20-pass
> toner). I'd really like a speed control but it looks like an AC
motor
> so that's not gonna happen - I'll hack a fuser assembly first.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
wrote:
> >
> > I finally decided to modify the laminator IAW www.puslar.gs
> > directions.
> >
> > IMO it is not a 15 minutes job, as he claims, it took mi close to
an
> > hour to get it all done. Then, his directions are vague and
> > imprecise, they miss some steps, and he uses terms that are not
> > typical names in the industry. Bottom line is that his directions
> > suck big time, very big time, but they were good enough for me to
> > complete the job, although few times I wasn't sure if that
project
> > would ever be completed.
> >
> > I ran few tests with it and all works very well. The principle is
the
> > same as Stefan described, chicken and grill but here one doesn't
have
> > to hunt his own chicken before grilling it... The ideas that he
came
> > up with, are very innovative, how in the world he knew how to
rotate
> > a motor to a new position, or how he came up with idea of
exchanging
> > the gears??? It tells me that he spent countless hours to develop
the
> > product. Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:

>
> About the spacers: they basically pivot (wiggle) and are not
> parallel to each other. Is that what you are referring to? If so
> then to cope with it you keep them apart with two 0.062" strips of
> PCBs on each end, right? If so then it is possible to stick those two
> strips from the back, without disassembling the laminator, what do
> you think?
>

Yeah, that's the problem and solution. You could try it with out
disassembly but its not clear how well they will stay in. I'd be
worried about them catching on the paper as you feed it through. I
drilled little holes in the spacers and fitted them over the dimples
in the outfeed plates - they have stayed in place. I cut them so as
to not actually sit in the outfeed path. If you look at the plates,
you'll see an obvious place for the spacers and can cut the PCB
material to the exact size and drill a hole for the dimple. I'm
kicking myself for not taking pictures so as to save 1K words.

Try your idea, if it works you're ahead. If it doesn't, a jam
requires disassembly anyway and then you could do it the same as I did.

Phil

I solved this problem by making two small (maybe 1/4" x 3/8") pieces
of .031 pcb and wedging them between the top plate and the little
plastic things that stick out from each side (I don't have a camera
and wish I did).

This worked well until I had to move the laminator around a bit, and
the pieces fell out. I will epoxy them in place.

I did have to take the plastic cover off to install them. I just put
them on the plate and used a screwdriver to slide them over and wedge
them under each plastic "finger".

The directions were frustrating for me too and I cursed the author
many times, and I also wished for photos. Eventually I got it done.
But 15 minutes? No way. But the results were worth it.

Grant

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> About the spacers: they basically pivot (wiggle) and are not
> parallel to each other. Is that what you are referring to? If so
> then to cope with it you keep them apart with two 0.062" strips of
> PCBs on each end, right? If so then it is possible to stick those two
> strips from the back, without disassembling the laminator, what do
> you think?
>
> Like I said, I completed it but for such a product (it carries the
> whole line of dextrine paper), I would envision something written by
> a technical writer, with pictures, because I can see some people
> having problems with it.

If you drill holes in them, they will sit over the dimples and stay in
place. like I said earlier.

032 may be enough but I had 062 waste sitting around.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "grantfair2001"
<grant.fair@s...> wrote:

>
> I solved this problem by making two small (maybe 1/4" x 3/8") pieces
> of .031 pcb and wedging them between the top plate and the little
> plastic things that stick out from each side (I don't have a camera
> and wish I did).
>
> This worked well until I had to move the laminator around a bit, and
> the pieces fell out. I will epoxy them in place.
>
> I did have to take the plastic cover off to install them. I just put
> them on the plate and used a screwdriver to slide them over and wedge
> them under each plastic "finger".
>
> The directions were frustrating for me too and I cursed the author
> many times, and I also wished for photos. Eventually I got it done.
> But 15 minutes? No way. But the results were worth it.
>
> Grant
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
> >
> > About the spacers: they basically pivot (wiggle) and are not
> > parallel to each other. Is that what you are referring to? If so
> > then to cope with it you keep them apart with two 0.062" strips of
> > PCBs on each end, right? If so then it is possible to stick those two
> > strips from the back, without disassembling the laminator, what do
> > you think?
> >
> > Like I said, I completed it but for such a product (it carries the
> > whole line of dextrine paper), I would envision something written by
> > a technical writer, with pictures, because I can see some people
> > having problems with it.

Phil, Grant,

I am confused by those strips of PCB that are to be wedged between
the aluminum plates. I understand that epoxy or screw wil work but
what is the difference from the original setup? There were the clear
plastic spacers in plase and they wer spreading hte two parallel
metal plates apart, so why removing them and replacing them with
different ones? To spread teh plates fyrther apart? If so they PCB
strips could fit additionally and over teh originally existing pieces
of plastic spacers. Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> If you drill holes in them, they will sit over the dimples and stay
in
> place. like I said earlier.
>
> 032 may be enough but I had 062 waste sitting around.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "grantfair2001"
> <grant.fair@s...> wrote:
> >
> > I solved this problem by making two small (maybe 1/4" x 3/8")
pieces
> > of .031 pcb and wedging them between the top plate and the little
> > plastic things that stick out from each side (I don't have a
camera
> > and wish I did).
> >
> > This worked well until I had to move the laminator around a bit,
and
> > the pieces fell out. I will epoxy them in place.
> >
> > I did have to take the plastic cover off to install them. I just
put
> > them on the plate and used a screwdriver to slide them over and
wedge
> > them under each plastic "finger".
> >
> > The directions were frustrating for me too and I cursed the author
> > many times, and I also wished for photos. Eventually I got it
done.
> > But 15 minutes? No way. But the results were worth it.
> >
> > Grant
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
wrote:
> > >
> > > About the spacers: they basically pivot (wiggle) and are not
> > > parallel to each other. Is that what you are referring to? If
so
> > > then to cope with it you keep them apart with two 0.062" strips
of
> > > PCBs on each end, right? If so then it is possible to stick
those two
> > > strips from the back, without disassembling the laminator, what
do
> > > you think?
> > >
> > > Like I said, I completed it but for such a product (it carries
the
> > > whole line of dextrine paper), I would envision something
written by
> > > a technical writer, with pictures, because I can see some
people
> > > having problems with it.

I never did understand the instructions on why the clear spacers
should be removed. They are about the width of a laminated piece of
paper. Why remove them??? Anyway, I decided they were too thin so I
put thicker ones in. I suppose you could just add to the original
ones but then .062 FR4 was the right thickness and I'd already removed
the thin ones.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...> wrote:
>
> Phil, Grant,
>
> I am confused by those strips of PCB that are to be wedged between
> the aluminum plates. I understand that epoxy or screw wil work but
> what is the difference from the original setup? There were the clear
> plastic spacers in plase and they wer spreading hte two parallel
> metal plates apart, so why removing them and replacing them with
> different ones? To spread teh plates fyrther apart? If so they PCB
> strips could fit additionally and over teh originally existing pieces
> of plastic spacers. Mike
>
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> >
> > If you drill holes in them, they will sit over the dimples and stay
> in
> > place. like I said earlier.
> >
> > 032 may be enough but I had 062 waste sitting around.
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "grantfair2001"
> > <grant.fair@s...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I solved this problem by making two small (maybe 1/4" x 3/8")
> pieces
> > > of .031 pcb and wedging them between the top plate and the little
> > > plastic things that stick out from each side (I don't have a
> camera
> > > and wish I did).
> > >
> > > This worked well until I had to move the laminator around a bit,
> and
> > > the pieces fell out. I will epoxy them in place.
> > >
> > > I did have to take the plastic cover off to install them. I just
> put
> > > them on the plate and used a screwdriver to slide them over and
> wedge
> > > them under each plastic "finger".
> > >
> > > The directions were frustrating for me too and I cursed the author
> > > many times, and I also wished for photos. Eventually I got it
> done.
> > > But 15 minutes? No way. But the results were worth it.
> > >
> > > Grant
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "mikezcnc" <eemikez@c...>
> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > About the spacers: they basically pivot (wiggle) and are not
> > > > parallel to each other. Is that what you are referring to? If
> so
> > > > then to cope with it you keep them apart with two 0.062" strips
> of
> > > > PCBs on each end, right? If so then it is possible to stick
> those two
> > > > strips from the back, without disassembling the laminator, what
> do
> > > > you think?
> > > >
> > > > Like I said, I completed it but for such a product (it carries
> the
> > > > whole line of dextrine paper), I would envision something
> written by
> > > > a technical writer, with pictures, because I can see some
> people
> > > > having problems with it.

Thanks for commenting, Phil, that definitely puts a closure on my
modification. Mike

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
>
> I never did understand the instructions on why the clear spacers
> should be removed. They are about the width of a laminated piece of
> paper. Why remove them??? Anyway, I decided they were too thin so
I
> put thicker ones in. I suppose you could just add to the original
> ones but then .062 FR4 was the right thickness and I'd already
removed
> the thin ones.